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RANDOM RECORDS OF A LIFETIME..
DEVOTED TO SCIENCE AND ART, 1846-1921
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BY W. H. HOLMES
///
VOLUME IV, PART I
COLORADO
THE HAYDEN SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES
1873-1874-1875-1876-1887
Five summers among the rugged peaks
and fascinating valleys of the splendid
ranges of Colorado,
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VOLUME IV
ECTIOJT I, 1873 Introduction.
Itinerary.
Twin Lakes and Adjacent
Mountain Ranges.
First Ascent of the Mountain
of the Snow Gross (Holy Gross).
Ascent and naming of Mt. Powell.
Illustrations.
A Grizzly Bear Adventure.
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EXPLORATIONS IN THE ROGKY MOUNTAINS
187£ - 1878
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I began my exploring career with the old Geologi¬
cal Survey of the Territories in 1872, Dr. F. V. Hayden in
charge. This was the first systematic exploration of the
Yellowstone country. Up to 1869 the region was scarcely
known at all, although it contains some of the greatest
wonders of the world. It was remote from such thorough¬
fares as had been opened between the East and the far West,
with no trail save those made bv bear, elk, deer and the
multitude of small game. The region was so utterly wild
that we had in large measure to find names for the rivers,
\\
lakes and mountain-peaks that we studied and mapped. It
is interesting now in 1931 to go back over that time and
recall the episodes and adventures that led to the use of
many of the names given. For example, the name Mount
Evarts was attached to a great mountain mass that lies just
across Gardner's River from mammoth hot springs, because it
was the site of the rescue of the nearly starved and quite
crazed explorer of that name who was lost in the wilds of
the Yellowstone Country for thiery-seven days, three years
before our visit. Mount Blackmore was so named because of
the death, near its base, of Lady Blackmore, wife of Sir
William Blackmore, guests of the Survey.
Mount Holmes was
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so named by the Director of the Survey because of the
part I took in the Survey of 1878.
L^-ter in the days of exploration it gave me es¬
pecial pleasure to be able to attach to the charming valley
containing the mud geysers and other wonders of the part,
the name of Hayden, in honor of our chief.
Perhaps the most gratifying episode to me person¬
ally came to light as the result of a visit to the Park in
1928 of two prominent geologists, Professor R. H. Field of
Princeton University and Professor 0. T. Jones of Manchester,
England, who, after a summer r s study of the geology of the
Grand Canyon and its region stopped in Washington to tell me
that my analysis of the geology of the canyon in 1878 was
the only correct one up to date.
In 1873, 74 and 75, we were in Colorado and jp re¬
call with pride the fact that within three months I climbed
11 peaks each near or over 14,000 feet in height, and that
I was first to reach the summit -in every case. These were:
Gray, Torrey, Long’s, Pike’s Grizzly, Evarts, Powell, Culebre,
Sierra Blanco, Lincoln, La Plata and Snow Mass. Many of the
less important peaks were climbed among which was the Mountain
of the Holy Cross, the first ascent of which is recorded in
detail among these episodes and in Volume III of this series.
These explorations are recorded in many volumes of the nation¬
al Surveys, but are too voluminous to be even sketched in
this place.
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SURVEYS OF 1872, 74, 7b, 76 and 1887
NAMIHG OF COLORADO MOUNTAINS BY TEE HAYDEN SURVEYORS
By Holmes personally: Height
Mt. Powell.1873.13,391
Castle Peak.14,106
Gothic...12,491
Capital... 13,992
Crested Butte.12,014
Grizzly.13,315
Italia. 13,491
By Others:
Massive... 14,368
Harvard.14,383
Buffalo.13,541
Maroon.1,400
Sopris. 12,972
Snow Mass. .13,960
La Plata.14,302
Elbert.14,326
Yale. 14,151
Princeton.14,169
Ontor o...14,245
Shavano. .14,093
Ouray...14,063
Torrey.14,336
Holy Cross......... .14,176
JUL
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Field Work of the Hayden Survey of the Territories
in Northern Colorado, 1875 *
W. H. Holmes, Artist to the Survey .
In the spring of 1873 the report on the work of the
Survey of the Territories for 1872 was duly completed in Wash¬
ington and late in May the party set out for Colorado, the
outfitting camp being established on the Davis ranch outside the
city of Denver•* On May 30, several parties,properly outfitted,
were off for the mountains.
During the previous year, I served as artist for the
Survey of the Yellowstone country and made so much headway in
*
the study of the geological formations that I now took an active
part not only in sketching the ranges, and making drawings of
all kinds of geological and other subjects, but in observing
\
and recording the diversified geological phenomina. It was a
great season of exploration and adventure during which I climbed
eleven mountain peaks, most of which were between 13,000 and
14,000 feet in height. Among these were La Plata, Elbert,
Torry, Lincoln, Powell, Evans, Gray, White Rock, Long's, Pike's
and Snow Mass.
Among the most noteworthy examples of the season's
adventures was the discovery and asceiit of the Mountain of the
Holy Cross, and the ascent and naming of Mount Powell. Accounts
of these episodes are included herewith. My field notebooks
were too voluminous to be preserved and with the exception of a
few pages appended hereto all were destroyed.
This year the Survey office was in the Second Rational Bank
Building, Seventh Street.
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May 30:
May 31:
June 1:
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From the outfitting camp at Davis Ranch on Clear
Creek five miles from Denver. The first day ! s
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march on to Schuyler.
At Schuyler Station, Kansas Pacific Railway,
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From Schuyler Station to Platte River.
From Platte River to Coal Creek.
From Coal Creek to Bear Canyon.
Sketching in Bear Canyon.
Ascent of Boulder Peak.
Camp in Bear Canyon.
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From Bear Canyon to Coal Creek.
In camp. Coal Creek.
From Goal Creek to Van Bibber Creek.
In camp, Van Bibber Creek.
Ascent of Golden Peak.
In Boulder City,
From Van Bibber Creek to Bear Creek.
Ascent of Bear Creek station.
In camp at Bear Creek station.
From Been 1 Creek station to Strain 1 s Ranch.
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Prom Strain’s Ranch to Sisty’s Ranch.
To Timber Line on Mount Evans.
Ascent of Mount Evans.
Mount Evans to Sisty’s Ranch.
Prom Sisty’s Ranch to Donnerville.
Prom Donnerville through Georgetown to Gray’s Peak.
Ascent of Gray and Torrey Peaks.
From Gray’s Peak to Idaho.
Prom Idaho to camp near Golden City.
Reach main camp at Denver.
In camp at Denver.
!) II If IT
In camp at Clear Creek.
Move to Platte River near Denver.
In Bear Creek Canyon.
Up Turkey Creek and across divide.
Camp on branch of the Platte.
Prom the Platte to South Park.
To Pairplay.
To Red Beds and Mount Lincoln.
Ascent of Mount Lincoln; snow.
Down from Mount Lincoln; snow.
14: Cross range from camp to Oro City; snow.
15: Cross range from Oro to camp.
16: In camp.
17s In Horse Shoe Canyon.
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In fault. Horse Shoe amphitheater.
Clear Creek camp to divide; kill antelope.
First view of the Twin Lakes.
Climb - Buffalo Peak; snow.
Reach the Arkansas.
Reach Twin Lakes.
Enjoying Twin Lakes; boating.
Up Lake Creek to Timber Line.
Climbed LaPlata Mountain; snowstorm.
Down to camp.
Up to Grizzly Mountain.
On Grizzly Mountain; rugged; full of grizzlies;
snow; see sketch.
Cross the Rocky Mountain divide into Taylor Fork of
Gunnisson River.
From one branch of Taylor River to another.
Climb Italian Mountain; snowstorm.
From Italian Mountain to Tall Timber.
Down creek and up to Teocalli Mountain.
Ascent of White Rock Peak; snow.
From Teocalli Creek up East River.
From divide camp to base of Snow Mass Mountain.
Ascent of Snow Mass Mountain; snow.
Up Rock Creek with Jackson.
Down in Canyon with Gardiner; snow.
At falls; then across to East River.
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Examining the semiquaqiversal structure.
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On Belj£/iew Peak.
Climbed White Hock Mountain again; snow.
From camp on East River to base of Italian Mountain.
From foot of Italian Mountain to Taylor River.
Across divide to Lake Creek; snow.
Down to lakes and up Arkansas River.
In camp, mouth of Iowa Gulch; snow.
From camp up Arkansas over divide to Eagle River.
Dovm the Eag&e River to Roche Moutonnee.
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Up through the timber to the Holy Cross.
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Up through the timber toward Holy Cross Mountain.
Ascent of Holy Cross Mountain; snow.
Re-ascent of the Holy Cross and descent (see photographs)
To camp in Grizzly Park.
Successful trouting down Eagle River.
Trip to Mount Powell, Blue River Camp.
On Mount Powell, Blue River Range.
Return to camp.
Move down Eagle River twenty miles.
From Eagle River to Grand River.
From Grand to Blue River; Indians.
From Blue to Sulphur Spring.
Up Grand River to Willow Creek.
Up Willow Creek to slope of Park View Peak.
Climb Park View Peak; snow.
Down to camp on the Grand.
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Prom the Grand into,Boulder Pass.
Prom Boulder Pass to Middle Boulder.
Prom camp to Boulder.
Prom Boulder to Hear Ward’s.
Prom Ward's to foot of Long's Peak.
Still nearer to Long's Peak.
G1 imbed Long' s Peale.
March through Estes Park.
Reach Longmont.
Back to the Big Thompson.
Between Big Thompson fend Poudre.
From Big Thompson to Boulder City.
Prom Boulder to Fisher's Ranch.
At Denver.
Camp* Fisher’s Ranch,
Denver to Plum Creek.
To mouth of Plum Creek along the range.
Over to Monument Creek.
From Monument Creek to Bear Canyon.
Pike's Peak or bust.
" 27: Busted; frogeout.
" 28: On Pike's Peak and down.
?t 29: In the Garden of the Gods.
!f 30: By railway to Denver.
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1873, Gamp at Davis Ranch near Denver
THE Ifiljfe EXPEDITION*
The a»rog’rasuiMe of the Varions 39ivi-
sions--Names <>f Scientific Men At¬
tached to the Survey—An Outline of
the Country to be Explored—An Un¬
known but Marvelous Region to be
Penetrated—And Many Other Inter¬
esting Particulars.
- It 73
The United States geological survey, or
exploratory expedition, under the direction
of Professor r R V. Hayden, United States ge¬
ologist, will be ready to take the field as soon
as the season is sufficiently far advanced to
admit of explorations in the mountain dis¬
tricts. Mr. James Stevenson, Professor Hay¬
den’s principal assistant, who, from an ex¬
perience of many years in the territories, is
specially fitted for the charge assigned him,
has been here for some time past, and is at
present engaged in securing an outfit and
making other necessary preparations for the
start. Mr. Gardner is also here, supervising
and arranging, and Hayden is expected to
arrive between the first and middle of June.
The men are at present encamped on the
Fisher farm, on Clear creek, about five miles
from Denver.
The expedition will consist of three scien
tific parties, each under the charge of geolo¬
gists and topographers conjointly, and th°
three divisions are expected to cover an area
of thirty-two thousand square miles. In ad¬
dition to the above, there will be a fourth
party, a supervising force, of which Profes¬
sor Hayden and Mr. Gardner will be princi¬
pals. Mr. James Stevenson, apart from his
office as disburser of all funds,, will have
charge of the supply train, together with a
large number of teamsters, laborers, cooks,
hunters, etc., and will superintend the pro¬
visioning of the different parties.
Mr. Jackson, photographer, and Messrs.
Moran and Holmes, artists, the former
a distinguished worker in water-colors,
and who accompanied the party to the
Yellowstone last year, will secure studies of
the most remarkable scenery. One of Mr.
Moran’s studies, a scene in the geyser region,
a large-sized oil painting, has attracted no
little attention at Washington, where it mey
be seen in the statuary hall of the capitol
building. Mr. Holmes, though yet a young
man, is an artist of considerable talent, and
gives promise of increasing excellence.
One party, of which Dr. Peale, of Phila¬
delphia, is geologist, and Henry Gannett
topographer, with several assistants, and
Mr. Batty, of New York, as ornithologist,
and teamsters, cooks, etc., will leave Denver
about June 1, proceeding direct to Granite,
in Lake county. This will be known as the
South Park division. The party will extend
their explorations as far east as Pike’s Peak
and the foot hills, as far south as the Sa-
| guache country, and west- to the Elk Moun¬
tain range. They will ascend, correctly lo¬
cate, and accurately measure, by barometric
observation, all the principal peaks in the
district named, many of which have so far
been only approximately located on the
f man Thesf* p'-nlo-ntions areexneetfid to fur¬
nish the data for a reliable geological and to"
pographical map of the region.
Another party, in charge of Mr. Marvin,
geologist, and Mr. Lewis Bechler, topogra¬
pher, with the necessarylfessistants, packers,
teamsters, etc., will be sent, but not before
the middle of June, into the northwest dis¬
trict, which embraces th^hcountry west from
Long’s peak to Home peak, on White river,
north to the fortieth degree of latitude, and
east to the edge of the plains. We are prom¬
ised an exact measurement of Long’s peak,
and photographic views of its awful chasms,
some of which equal, if in some respects they
do not surpass, the famous Yosemite. The
Middle and North parks will be included in
the territory to which this party is assigned.
The third division, which will occupy a
more advanced field than the others, and
consequently have a more important task be¬
fore them, is to be dispatched about July 1,
and will take the western district, embracing
the valleys and cafions of the Blue, White,
Grand and Green rivers, and a large strip of
Utah. Dr. F. M. Endlich, a thoroughgoing,
industrious geologist, from Beading, Penn¬
sylvania, has supervision of the party, sec¬
onded by able assistants. General E. Ives,
at the head of a small party, was dispatched
through there ia 1855, under government
auspices, but since then no official reconnois-
ances, in the interest of science, have been
made in that direction. Hence these explora¬
tions must prove interesting and instructive_
Dr. Endlich, before proceeding to occupy 1
this field, however, will leave, in fact, left
, yesterday, for the mountains, to examine and
j report upon the mines, at Caribou, Central,
Idaho, and Georgetown, and it is probable
that, before returning to Denver, he will ex¬
tend his observations to the mining district
about Fairplay.
Extensive collections in geology, mineral¬
ogy, botany, and natural history, will be
made, and these will be forwarded to Wash¬
ington, and there deposited in the United
States National Museum, a feature of the
Smithsonian Institution, to the collections of
which Hayden’s various expeditions have
added so largely. Mr. John M. Coulter, a
botanist of acknowledged efficiency, will
have charge of that department during the
forthcoming campaign. There will be, prob¬
ably, with each division of the survey, one
or more correspondents, some of whom are
accredited from the leading journals of the
east—journals which recognize the import¬
ance of the surveys in the development of
onr territory. Of course, the unknown but
marvelous region to be explored by the ■
Endlich party, will abound in facts for the
correspondent with a nose for information.
The three divisions or bands are instructed
to return to Denver by the first of October.
Here they will be disbanded, and the scien- J
tifio members will proceed to Washington,
there to convert their notes into reports,
which must be submitted to Professor Hay¬
den, and by him to the Department of the
Interior. All reports will be ready for pub¬
lication about a year from this time.
\
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Office U, 8, Geological Survey of the Territories,
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THIS HAYBKM ^PEWITipSf.
JHoremeiit* 1 and Workings oi tUe D5f-
S«re»*i Parties..«e©logical Problems
■..The Mount of the Holy Cross—Its
Ascent, Description, Ktc--Eagle Riv¬
er—The Elk Mountain Peaks.
Camp OB' the United States Geo logical
and Geographical Suevkv, f
On Eagle liveb, August %>, 18/3. )
My last letter to you was closed on Satur¬
day the 16th, on Lake creek, and I continue
the brief summary of events since that
time.
! The two parties met early this week in the
Arkansas valley near Oro, Mr, Jackson hav¬
ing replaced, with improvements, the lost
panoramic views from La Plata, and taken
other pictures of great beauty, about the
Twin Lakes. That, in passing, both parties
put their legs under Mr. Derry’s “mahoga¬
ny” and indulged to their utmost capacity
in the products of the dairy and of female
culinary handiwork, you will hardly need to
be told.
Ournew camp was close by Weston’s ranch,
but Judge Weston was absent on business at
Granite, and we did not see him. It was
also just opposite the two enormous moun¬
tains which front the great range just here,—
Mt. Elbert and the one which we have hitherto
known provisionally as “Massive Mountain,”
from the immense scale on which it is built,but
which we now call “Grand Mountain.” Both
are over 14,000 feet high. The line of peaks
of that altitude belonging to the range ends
here, and for some distance to the north
no first class summit is found, until the line j
rises again at its northern end into the great |
mountain of the Holy Cross,
j The business near Oro was to resupply for
further operations. Hardly any of the party
went up California gulch to the little village
j itself, and I can give you no special informa¬
tion as to it or its interests, save that its pros¬
perity, like that of the other mining towns |
about, is on the wane, and a single mine
(Mr. Hill’s) is at present its main support.
The turbid flow of the Arkansas, below its j
junction with the creek from the gulch, was
enough to show us that not less than this was
going on. An abundant mail received at ,
Oro kept the chiefs of the survey mainly
busied, during the day spent in camp, with
correspondence. But a little time was given
to the examination of the terraces, which, es¬
pecially on the east side of the valley, are
hereabouts among its most strikng fea¬
tures. The highest rises near five hund¬
red feet above the river at our camp, and its
remains extend several miles up the valley ;
but it has been so cut down and washed out
by streams that it seems most like a series of
ridges stretching into the valley from the
eastern range. Its largest fragment wasjust
opposite us, showing for halfa mile a surface
as beautifully level, and an edge as straight
as those of a table. Recent stratified depos-
i its, half hardened into rock, cropped out on
one broken slope. This and the other lower
terraces prove the valley to have been a lake
before the river wore its way through th $
rocky ridges that cross it lower down. But j
the details of the action were left to be j
worked out by Mr. Gannett’s party.
Yesterday morning, then, we started up
the valley. This, for six or eight miles, re¬
tained its broad and open character, and the |
wagon road which we follow is much trav¬
eled. The river dwindles by degrees, and
finally, when we have left behind a larger
branch, which comes in from a passage
in the eastern range, it becomes
hardly better than a mere
brook. A round wooded hill shuts off the
valley, and we enter the defile on its left.
Here the brook is filled and covered with
railroad ties, cut in the woods near, and to
be floated down, when the water serves, to
Pueblo. We had seen traces of this business
further down; and it, along with James
4rcher’s mine (which we had to leave un¬
visited,) explain the well-used wagon road.
This road accompanies us to the very head
of the meadow where the Arkansas heads;
then comes an open wooded hill of but a
couple of hundred feet in height; aud when
we have begun to descend its further slope,we
have crossed the Tennessee pass, and are on
the Pacific side of tne continent. An easier -
and less marked divide between the two sides
is hardly to be found, and the altitude is lit¬
tle more than tt ■ thousand feet. The road
had changed to a trail, but a well-marked
one, which went down the brook that began
the Eagle river, changing from side to side
as the nature of the shores required. Instead,
however, of the broad valley which on the
other side of the pass separates for more than
fifty miles two perfectly distinct ranges,we had
here a narrow passage through a labyrinth
of hills, more or less rugged and precipitous,
which cut off entirely the view of the higher
mountains behind them. An intricate geolo¬
gy, too, of central gneiss with lime and sand
rock overlying, and plenty oferuptiye. For
an hour we had open and easy going ; then
] the river canoned, aud our path was a hard
one, with plenty ot stones and swampy
places ; and after an hour of this we emerged
Into a meadow, broad and grassy, on the
lower part of which we camped. Here, as
we found by climbing a height near the
oump, we were not far from opposite to the-
Holy Cross mountain (of which we had so
far caught not a glimpse;) but we
were far from having reached th«
approaches to the mountain. For
j its water runs off toward the
northeast, and between long and gently-
sloping but very rugged aud forbidding j
spurs,of which the slope is determined by the j
1 dip of the sedimentary beds surrounding the
1 granitic or igneous core of the mountain, and
finally all the nearer of the valleys between
tlhese spurs come down into an inaccessible i
sjanon, So we have made another whole
day’s journey without yet reaching a point
i from which we can begin to attack the
I mountain itself. To avoid- the canon, the
I trail first goes over a precipitous cut-off,
where a triangular isolated peak is left in
1 the angle between the fork we were follow¬
ing and another heavy creek that comes in
from the east; then it climbs the hill on th<
right, at least a thousand feet up, and skirls
it, crossing numerous gullies, for perhaps
eight miles*, till we come down at last to the
A,
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river brink on a little grassy meadow that
has very striking surroundings. Opposite
the creek, namely, rises to a point a perpen¬
dicular precipice full 1,500 feet high by
measurement, and offering a conspicuous ge¬
ological section on its whole face; at the
bottom the old and heavy-bedded silurian
limestone; above it sandstones and conglom¬
erates, in red beds beneath and white beds
toward the top—it is as yet doubtful whether
all carboniferous^in age, or rising into the
trias. Even the chiefs of the survey have
hardly seen a finer exhibition of geologic
structure. The rim is bordered along dow
on the east side with precipices' semewha.
similar; and just before sunset this evening
we had an almost magical scene : the su-
breaking out under the heavy cloud anu
tinging their summits with a misty light that
was half brilliant, half lurid ; and at t'
same time spanning the highest and near*
with a beautiful rainbow.
The Eagle river is not destitute of trout,
of a very respectable size. Three or four of
j about or above two pounds’ weight have been
i taken this afternoon ; and one, the largest,
I which was opened, had a whole entomologi¬
cal collection in his maw, of which the
! largest item was twenty-seven undigested
grasshoppers. There were with them the
partly digested materials of twice as many
more. His twenty-eighth fresh grasshopper
' proved one to many for him. Such are the
’ fruits of gormandizing!
I Monday, 24th.— The mount of the Holy
Cross has been thoroughly done at last, but
at a cost of time and labor which was not at
all anticipated. It may be only after years,
if at all, that another party will try to repeat
the ascent; still, some brief recital of our
experiences may not be without its value.
There is a broad valley, carrying 5 very
heavy creek, which runs directly down from
the main peak, a little east of north, to near¬
ly the site of the camp at which my letter
was begun. This valley was formerly the
bed of a glacier, and its bottoms and its sides,
up to a thousand feet or more above the bot¬
tom, are rounded and scored by the action
of the ice. Perhaps there is not in our whole
country such an exhibition of what the
French call roeltes moutonnies, or £ ‘sheep-
backed rocks” ; that look in the distance,
namely, like a flock of enormous sheep lying
down in a pasture. As an example of this
particular kind of glacial action, our trip,
certainly, has furnished nothing to compare
with it, even distantly. Take such a valley,,
with the sheep-backs rising anywhere from
ten to fifty feet over it, or broken ridges that
afford no continuous pathway, and with the
interstices filled with fallen timber, and you
will readily perceive that traveling in it is
no pastime; yet all attempts to ascend the
mountain must stand in some relation to this
valley—and that, although the ridge on
neither side reaches the peak without a deep
hollow intervening.
Well, our attempt was made up the western
ridge. It was not hard to ascend from the
creek valley to the edge of the ridge, but
there the fallen timber grew worse and
worse, and twice the train was turned back,
on both arms of the ridge, and had to camp
at evening at hardly two hours’ distance
from the starting point. A lighter party,
next day, well armed with axes, cut their
way through, and reached first a high point
at the edge of the ridge, 1,350 feet above the
valley, and commanding a splendid view
both of it, with its glacial phenomena, and
of the peak beyond; how splendid, Mr,
Jackson’s photographs, taken from the spot,
will by ahd by show. Two courses were
now open ; one, to plunge into the valley
and work up it as far as possible below; the
other, to labor along the eclge to a point
nearly opposite the peak; and try to get
down there. It was, perhaps, one of those
eases where, whichever alternative one takes,
he will be sorry not to have taken the other;
at any rate, we took, after careful cousidera-
tion, the first, and would advise any other
party by all means to try the second, which
is probably practicable. For the plunge
sas a long and severe one, and, with our ut¬
most efforts, we could get but a mile up
through the valley, leaving two hours and a j
half of hard scrambling between our final
camp and the bottom of the peak, with the
heavy geodetic and photographic apparatus
to carry. Nor was the food for the animals
sufficiently abundant s^id nutricious below.
Next day, setting out spou after daybreak,
the ascent was attempted by two parties ;
the photographic climbing to the end of the
southern ridge, as being 500 feet lower and
otherwise more easily accessible, and as ir
eluding the peak itself in the panorama
Unfortunately, the weather was not prop
tious. A showery afternoon the day befot
had ended in a steady rainy night; and |
though the clouds broke in the morning, yet
the flying mist hung about the high sum¬
mits all day long, obscuring the view. Both
parties were compelled, instead of returning
to camp, to do the best they could at timber-
line, with no wraps, and only the lunch they
had taken in their pockets, and to finish ,
their work on the following aborning. For- |
tunately the night was neither windy nor j
Cold ; but thirty hours on no provisions but I
a pocket lunch, are pretty hard upon men, |
some of whom have done 5,000 feet of climb- ;
ing with thirty or forty pounds of instru- \
ments on their backs.
The following day was a flue one here,
although the horizon was much obscured by
flying storms, and Mr. Gardner was able to
right his points, and Mr. Jackson to make
his panoramic views, in time to return to
camp in fair season. One of the photo¬
graphs in particular shows finely the cross
that gives name to the peak, although the
lateness of the season has abbreviated some¬
what the dimensions of the horizontal arms |
of the cross. Its cause lies in the cross seams j
of the gneiss, which cut one another on that I
face at nearly a right angle, one of the hori¬
zontal ones happening to be broken out to
such a depth as allows the snow to lie long
in it.
The mountain itself, like the whole of the
range to which it belongs, is of primitive rock,
gneiss: the sedimentary beds cap some of
: its flanking hills, and abound oyer toward
the Elk mountains, as well as in the valley
which lies this side of the Blue river range,
but they do not appear anywhere near the
summit. It is not precisely in the main
range, but rather constitutes a side branch or
spur, striking off some five or six miles to
0|-lUI j v t
the southward, and leaving an intervening
valley out of which comes the big creek.
The true range runs on, in its own nearly
north and south direction, in a line of sim¬
ilar peaks that rise above twelve thousand
feet, a little further only; then breaks sud¬
denly off, and is followed by a descending
slope of hills which lead down to the opener
and flatter country beyond. It is only in
this direction that one sees anything but
lofty peaks and ridges. Most striking among
them, perhaps, because here so near, is the
beautiful serrated line of the Blue river
mountains, the northern continuation of the
stretch of more rounded summits in which
Mount Lincoln stands highest. They must
range between twelve hundred and thirteen
hundred feet in nearly their whole extent.
The remarkable peaks of the Elk moun¬
tains, which we have so recently left, are of
course finely shown on the other side; but .
there is nothing to distinguish the view, as
a whole, above others which we have seen
in this range; and we have no reason to
urge anyone to overcome the unusual diffi- 1
culties of the ascent in the expectation of
unusual reward.
From here we cross over to the Blue river
range, and thence into the Middle park. But
Mr. Jackson’s party returns direct to Denver,
by way of Oro and Fairplay, and you will
see them there in the first days of September.
ASCEBT ABD RAMIEG OF MOUNT POWELL
NAMED BY W. E. HOLMES, 1873.
5
It was only a few days after the ascent of the
Mountain of the Holy Cross that a party of four of us,
*
members of the Hayden Survey, found ourselves after a
weary six hours 1 climb, upon the summit of a massive moun¬
tain some sixty miles north of the Mountain of the Cross.
Reaching the summit, I found a heap of stones — a monument
such as visitors to these unusual heights build to commemor¬
ate their achievement. Examing this structure carefully,
I found concealed within a small tin can, which, when opened
was found to contain a dessicated and discolored biscuit and
a bit of paper upon which was written in pencil a dedication
\\
of the biscuit to the finder. This had been placed here
six years before by Major J. W. Powell, explorer of the
Grand Canyon of the Colorado, and was signed by him. I at
once turned to the party and proposed that as a fitting
recognition of this occurrence we should dedicate the mountain
itself to the doughty explorer, and now you will find that on
the maps of Colorado this peak is known as Mount Powell.
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/%75
A. R. MARVIN, Geologist
Hayden Survey, 1873
t
A. R. Marvin, geologist, taking notes
among the crags, Overcoat weather.
A. ,
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Wm
aiss
s8SW
\
A GR1ZZM BEAM ADVENTURE, 1873.
Introduced in ay tT Barrative fI of 1873, April 1, 1927.
Mr • George B* Chittenden of Connecticut, who was a
member of the Hayden Surrey of the Territories in 1873, happened
to he my guest with Mrs. and Miss Chittenden, Mr. W. H. Jackson
and Mr* Story B* Ladd at the Cosmos Club in February, 1987, and
he told the story of my grizzly hear adventure in Colorado, de¬
tails of which I had almost completely forgotten, although I re¬
membered having the skin on our apartment floor in ‘./ashington later*
The story as told had its foundation in my own statement
to the members of the Expedition at the time as remembered hy
Chittenden* The Survey members were at work among the high rook¬
ies of Colorado and on the day of my adventure we crossed one of
the ranges and descended into the valley of the Roaring Fork. As
told by Chittenden, "Holmes was always an independent cuss and
usually took his own course in the days work, studying the geology
and .sketching the ranges, having arranged on this day to join the
party at camp at a designated point on Roaring Fork* The party
had hardly made camp when we heard a rifle shot near at hand, and
shortly Holmes arrived, (according to Chittenden) and reported that
he ted shot a grizzly bear5 that in working his way through the
forest he happened to come upon a large log lying across his path*
In looking over this log he discovered on the opposite side the
back of a grimly "bear, his head down in the search for food* Hot
wishing to pass on without seeing more of the animal he shouted
”boo« 4 xc 0 sl over the log* The bear’s head immediately rose to answer
the greeting and in standing up exposed his chest. There was a
quest ion of appropriate action on the part of both man and bear,
* . ! L: I* ? » • * . • :
, •, . I
and Holmes decided to settle the matter at once, so raised his
Springfield rifle and shot the beast in the exposed chest. The
• - . i
. • ' • ‘ -i •
bullet, his last cartridge, must have gone direct to his heart
for he was dead in a moment. When the story was told in camp the
boys volunteered to go back with Holmes to the log and skin the
bear. 11
The only note regarding the adventure found in my report
of the day’s doings was ”my bear sic in is a beauty.” I may add
that the akin did not last long used as a carpet our apartment
(Chittenden, Ladd and Holmes) in Washington and has long since
disappeared.
April 1st, 1927*
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RAIDCM RECORDS OF A LIFETIME
DEVOTED TO SCIENCE ADD ART, 1846-1931
BY W. H. HOMES
VOLUME IV
SECTIOH II First Ascent of the Mountain of the
Holy Cross, 1873, followed by a number
of letters and clippings revealing the
awakening interest in the mountain by
the people of Denver §y6 years later.
It appears that the photograph of the
Mountain of the Holy Cross made by Mr.
Jackson in 1873 is the best representa¬
tion of the mountain ever taken. The
melting of the snows had reached the
particular point when the cross is re¬
vealed in great perfection, and the
figure of the woman with upraised hands
has never been so clearly defined so
far as shorn by photographs.
/
First Glimpse of the Snow Cross from
Grays Peak nearly 40 miles away.
MOIMTAIH OF THE SHOW CROSS
EXTRACTS FROM DR. F. V. HAYDEH’S REPORT OH TEE COLORADO SURVEY
FOR 1873.
”...A little stream joins the Eagle River from the
west side, which rises among the group of mountain-peaks of
which the Holy Cross is most conspicuous. The valley of this
stream varies from one-eighth to one-fourth of a mile in width,
and is about eight or ten miles in length, and so covered with
the rounded glaciated forms of granite that it was impossible
to ascend it with our pack-trains. We were obliged to descend
the river about three miles and then climb the steep mountain¬
side over a net-work of fallen timber. The obstructions to
traveling were'very great. We often labored for a day or two
to find some path to approach the mountain-pea^, and were
obliged to cut our way through the fallen timber, and finally
succeeded in getting within about five miles of the base of the
peak.7 (page 73)
"The main mass of the peak, like the whole of the
Sawatch range, is composed of granite gneiss. The summit of the
Holy Cross is covered with fragments of banded gneiss. The
amphitheaters of all sides have been gradually excavated, as
heretofore described, and the more or less vertical sides show
the intermediate steps very clearly. The characteristic feature
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V (Mountain of the Show Cross)
of the Mount of the Holy Cross is the vertical face, nearly
3,000 feet on the side, with a cross of snow which may he seen
at a distance of fifty to eighty miles from other mountain-peaks#
i
This is formed hy a vertical fissure about 1,500 feet high, with
a sort of horizontal step, produced hy the breaking down of the
side of the mountain, on which the snow is lodged and remains
more or less all the year. late in the summer the cross is
very much diminished in size by the melting of the snow which
has accumulated in the fissures. A beautiful green lake lies
at the base of the peak, almost up to timber-line, which forms
a reservoir for the waters from the melting snows of the high
peaks. From this, one of the main branches of the Roches
Moutonnes Creek flows down the mountain-side, forming several
charming cascades on its way. The worn rocks or "sheep-backs*
in the valley of the creek display most remarkable examples of
the curious markings on the surface of gneiss -produced by the sep
aration of the different constituents of the rocks." (page 74)
FIRST AS GEM 1 OF THE MGTMTAIH OF THE HOLY GROSS
Until the middle of June the great front range of the
Rocky Mountains had been crowned with an unbroken covering of
snow, and the higher peaks looked forbidding enough to cool the
ardor of the most ambitious mountaineer* We spent a few months
on the plains and pine-covered foot-hills watching,impatiently,
the faces of the mountain* We marked how the snow line moved
gradually upward, how the black rocks began to peep out making
innumerable black patches, and how the snow finally occupied
only small areas where it had filled depressions and accumulated
in deep drifts. Our little party was not slow to take advan¬
tage of this growing weakness in our enemy T s front and steadily
advanced up the valleys, into dense timber, up long, steep slopes,
through swamps and torrents and treacherous snowbanks; and long
before the grass and flowers of those upper regions had felt the
touch of spring, we were there. And many days before winter
had finally surrendered the lofty summits, from a peak more than
14,000 feet above the sea we looked around upon one of the grand¬
est panoramas that the world affords. To the east the great
plain gave a horizon entirely unbroken, to the west innumerable
mountains notched the sky like saw teeth. From the ramparts
of a continent we looked out upon a boundless ocean, calm, motion¬
less, inward, upon a waste of mountains whose heights and depths
and mystery fairly confounded us.
This was to be the field of our labors, and we summonded
our half-bewildered faculties to the task of identifying such
great landmarks as would be necessary to guide us in our future
wanderings. An indefinite number of high, ragged ranges could
be traced by their lines of lofty summits as far away t<p the
north and south as the eye could reach. But one among all these
summits caught the eye and fixed the attention. Far away to the
westward, we discovered a peak, a very giant among its fellows, a
king amidst a forest of mountains, that bore aloft on its dark
face a great white cross, so perfect, so grand in proportions that
at a distance of sixty miles we felt outselves in its very presence.
Two months later we found ourselves approaching the region
in which this mountain is located. On the 19th of August we stood
on the ocean divide, from which the waters to the east are carried
by the Arkansas down to the Gulf, while those to the west sink
away and are lost in the mysterious gorges of the "great Colorado
of the west." On the one side a narrow valley stretched away to
the southeastward in a seemingly endless vista, while on the other
the streams and valleys were almost immediately obscured by a mass
of irregular mountains. The course chosen would lead us first
down the Pacific slope into a deep and rugged canon which we would
be compelled to descend for some 20 miles or more, thence by means
of one of the great creek valleys that come down from the range to
the west, we hoped to be able to ascend to the base of the peak.
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PHOTOGRAPH 8Y DETROIT PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPANY
THE WONDERFUL MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS
Before the white man penetrated the wilds of the Rocky Mountains the red man saw the sacred emblem of Christian
faith lifted high upon one of the loftiest peaks of Central Colorado. Two canons of great depth, filled with eternal
snows, form this holy symbol, which is raised against the heavens like a mighty banner. Its sublimity could not
be overdrawn, for it is one of the most wonderful spectacles human eyes have ever gazed upon.
*
For two days we pushed forward, sometimes in the river
hed, sometimes high up on the walls where our trembling animals
had to he led along the narrow ledged and treacherous rock-slides.
In places we would appear to he completely shut in hy walls so
steep and high that the nimble deer could hardly escape, where
the river came seething and boiling from some dark chasm utterly
blocked up by massive rock, and disappeared again in a canon
which no living being could penetrate and from which came con¬
stantly up the smothered roar of pent-up torrents.
On the evening of the second day we reached the mouth of
a large creek which it was agreed must drain the high regions about
the Holy Gross, As yet no one had caught sight of the object of
our search since the first discovery some sixty miles away, for
since entering the canon no mountains had been in sight, only the
rocky walls, the densely timbered slopes and the sky.
In vain we searched for a trail or'passable route up this
creek valley. It was pronounced impossible and we essayed to
climb the ridge to the right, but night was upon us and camp must
be made.
By noon the next day we were on the high ridge north of
the creek, free from the prison-like valley, but not free. A
broad freshly-beaten game-trail led us on charmingly for a while,
but presently entered $he timber and we were plunged into such a
slough of despond as strong hearts only could encounter and pass
safely through. To the right, to the left, and in front, the
mountain face bristled like a porcupine. Countless multitudes
of giant pine-trunks, uprooted by some fierce hurricane, were
piled up and criscrossed and tangled in such a way that\ an army
must have stopped as before the walls of an impregnable fortress.
Up and dovm,advancing and retreating, struggling through the most
aggravating mazes, to find ourselves returning again to the start¬
ing point, we worked on until horses and men were thoroughly
tired out and disgusted. At night, after nine hours of unre¬
mitted exertion, we pitched camp in a little swampy gulch among
the logs and rank weeds, only two and one half miles in advance
of the camp of the preceding night.
On the. following morning we moved in another direction
and with much better success. By noon we emerged from the timber
and stood upon a high promontory that overlooked the grand valley.
What a remarkable sightl Broad and deep and regular, it looked
like a great pasture, dotted .with a million white-backed sheep.
In ages past a mighty glacier, rivalling the modern ice rivers
of the Alps, had swept down this valley smoothing down its rugged
sides and rounding and polishing the projecting masses of granite.
So great was the resemblance of these rounded rocks to flocks of
sheep that we named it, after the manner of the French, Roche
moutorm.es valley.
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On the opposite side of this valley and somewhat
farther up, there stood a dark mountain that immediately
attracted our attention, and seemed certainly to he the object
of our search* High and rugged and cold, its scarred granite
faces were tattooed by many ragged lines and patches of snow.
But there was no cross. We looked in vain for forms that might
even suggest a cross; but neither on this mountain nor on any
of those that lay back of it could the object of our search be
found.
But after all this must be the one, and the cross, if it
has not already melted away, will be found on one of the other
faces. It is at least our duty to see, and first this great
valley must be crossed. Two thousand feet of weary zigzagging
brought us to the creek bed. Turning up this we picked our
way among the rocks and fallen trees until within about three
miles of the mountain 1 s base. Here we found it necessary to
halt, not only because our animals were utterly tired out, but
because the way was completely blocked up. So camp was made
by the banks of the roaring creek, with no alternative for the
morrow but to advance afoot.
At night it rained in torrents, but we sat stoically by
the camp-fire talking of the past day's work and planning for
the prospective ascent. It was decided that one party with
the surveyor’s instruments should move up the valley along the
main creek until opposite the northern spur of the peak and
ascend from that direction. The photographic party would
climb directly up the valley rim from camp so as to reach a
long high ridge that hemmed in the peak on the east, and from
which it was thought a good view could be obtained of \the main
eastern face and the cross if it still existed. men it grew
late we spread our blankets among the wet logs and went to bed.
By sunrise all hands were stirring, and the start was
made almost with a dash, eveiy man for himself and the best man
to the front. It was not long before the party was pretty
well scattered, but communication was kept up by frequent shouts.
The heavy instruments, which weighed some forty pounds, had been
carried a mile or more ahead the evening before, so that we scaled
tii© barriers of rock and wood that lay in our way with unusual
rapidity, but when the rock on which the heavy instrument-box
had been cached was reached, a halt was called and the announce¬
ment made that eacr man must take his turn at the box and carry
it a distance proportionate to his strength.
Our party consisted of seven members. Only four had come
up but we decided to move on. Dr. Hayden was the first to take
up tne load* It was strapped to his shoulders and he marched
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off with an ease and rapidity that did great credit to his
prowess as a mountaineer.
There could he no flagging now. The man who, compara¬
tively unincumbered, could not Keep pace with the doctor must
certainly he in disgrace, and the scrambling advance grew more
lively than ever• Presently it began to rain and the smooth
rock grew slippery and the grass and bushes dripping wet. By
the time we had reached the point where the mountain rises
abruptly from the valley, we were soaked to the skin, but we
must push on.
From this point the course was upward. Hour after hour
we toiled on, the box was shifted from one to another, and the
carrier was constantly assisted where the walls were steep. But
the box grew heavier as we advanced, and the changes more fre¬
quent. At timber line all parties were glad to take a rest.
We were now in the midst of the rain clouds and the day was so
unpromising for mountain work that it seemed useless to advance.
A fire was built in the shelter of the great pines and an attempt
made to dry our clothes.
It was midday, and 3,000 vertical feet intervened between
us and the summit. It now became a serious question as to
what it was best to do. We had brought only a sandwich for
lunch, and had no blankets not even an overcoat to protect us
during the night. We could do nothing on the peak among the
clouds, and the idea of returning to camp and making the entire
ascent again on the following day could not be entertained for a
moment. It was finally decided to complete the ascent imme¬
diately and trust to Providence to lift the shroud tha,t envelop¬
ed the mountains.
Meantime the photographic party, much more heavily laden
than ourselves, had encountered far greater difficulties. Mr.
Jackson and his two associates carried among them upwards of one
hundred pounds of apparatus, but were not men to yield before
ordinary difficulties. The rain, the greatest possible damper
on a photographer r s enthusiasm, could not make them hesitate;
torrents and cliffs and dense forests and prowling beasts were
interposed in vain. They had set out to accomplish an object,
and success at whatever cost of exertion and hardship must-be
attained.
By the middle of the day Mr. Jackson finds himself far in
advance of his companions, but in spite of his unusual enthusiasm
he begins to fear for his results.
Eight hours of weary climbing have brought him nearly to
the summit of the ridge• There is nthing to be seen but the
dull, gray clouds which rise and fall and sweep back and forth
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and sink down again oppressively around him* Is this all labor
lost? Have the fates conspired against him, and is the Holy
Gross a myth, an illusion that has led him on through all these
weary days, only to deceive him?
He sits down among the rocks to rest and ponder* Mean¬
time the winds rise and the dull mists are driven along the
cliffs and torn to tatters on the sharp projections* To the
west great billowy passage-ways are opened, and glimpses of the
lofty mountains can be had, looking like ghosts through the thin
mists* Suddenly the artist glances upward, and beholds a
vision exceedingly dramatic and beautiful# He is amazed, he is
transfixed. There, set in the dark rock, held high among the
floating clouds, he beholds the long-sought cross, perfect, spot¬
less white, grand in dimensions, at once the sublimest thing in
nature and the emblem of heaven.
He recalls himself, and remembers his ambition, his duty,
to transfix, by his art, an image of this vision, that can be
carried back to the world. He sets his camera in haste, and
invokes the aid of the floating sunlight. He turns for his
chemicals, but they are not there. They are far down the
mountain on the backs of weary men. In despair he sees the
clouds gather and settle down for the night.
At nearly the same hour our party stood on the summit of
the mountain itself and gathered snow from the very top of the
Holy Gross. We, too, saw the clouds break and scatter, and
gazed with wonder upon the rolling sea, with its dark mountain
islands, and crouched behind the great rocks to avoid the cold
winds that battle so incessantly about those high summits.
The utter solitude and desolation of these summit regions
are never so deeply impressed upon one as when the rest of the
world is shut out thus by clouds, and nothing greets the eye but
dull granites and frozen snows.
And, now, since no observations could be made, we de¬
cided to descend to timber line, and spend the night.
In passing down the crest of the northern spur we stopped
near the edge of a great precipice to watch the play of the-
storm-clouds below, and to pitch great rocks into the abyss.
While here we were favored by a most unusual phenomenal display.
The sun at our backs broke through the clouds, and there was
immediately projected on the mists that filled the dark gulf a
brilliant rainbow; not the arch, as usually seen, but an entire
circle, a spectral ring, which, as we still gazed, faded away,
and in a minute was gone. Far beyond, on the opposite side
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of this deep valley, we could see the ridge occupied by the
photographer, and, by using our field-glasses, the camera could
be dimly seen standing on the very highest point.
A shout from one of our party elicited a reply from Mr*
Jackson himself, that came back to us like the faintest echo,
for the distance must have been more than half a mile. It was
interesting to "notice the effect of this very meagre communica¬
tion upon the feelings of our party* It was cheering to feel
that we were not entirely alone; the bond of sympathy with other
beings of our kind was not utterly sundered. Shouts were ex¬
changed frequently as we descended, and when we reached timber
line and kindled our fire for the night, a companion blaze
twinkled like a star against the dark mountain opposite.
Later the cheerful blaze of two immense fires lit up the
faces of surrounding objects far and near, and for the time we
forgot that we were supperless and bedless, and that a hard day f s
work must follow an almost sleepless night. The rain had ceased
and the night was not as cold as had been expected, so that we
talked and dozed away the time without especial discomfort.
At daybreak we were up and moving, but we found ourselves
stiff and weak, and the ascent was most tedious. Our shouts
were not so frequent and strong as before, and the replies came
back from Jackson hesitatingly and late.
But all turned out well. The scientific work was com¬
pleted by noon and the photographs secured before that time.
The descent was made in safety. On reaching' the first creek¬
crossing we were overjoyed to meet our companion, who had return¬
ed to camp the day before, with a basket of provisions hnd a pot
of tea.. At six in the evening both parties were in camp, and
a^bountiful supper was all the more enjoyed by being seasoned
with stoeies of adventure and success.
(Printed in The Illustrated Christian Weekly* May 1.
-209) J *
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OOVERNOR OF COLORADO
PRESIDENT
MAYOR OF DENVER
VICE PRESIDENT
REV. J, P. CARRIGAN
CHAIRMAN
E. E. LUCAS
SECRETARY
C. C, PARKS
TREASURER
Mount of The Holy Cross Association
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GOVERNOR OF COLORADO
PRESIDENT
MAYOR OF DENVER
VICE PRESIDENT
REV. J. P. CARRIGAN
CHAIRMAN
E. E. LUCAS
SECRETARY
C. C. PARKS
TREASUREF?
MountofThe Holy Cross Association
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quest more keen. ’ great beyond as has Wm. G. Evans, Sam F. Duttor
On July 7, 1921 after a wonderful days trip of following Elmer E. Sommers, Elmer E, Lucas an<J Galvin H Morse,
The MidwestRefining Company
Casper.Wyomikg
R. S. Ellison ,
Vice President
August 7, 1928
Doctor W, H. Ho lines, Director
National Gallery of Art
Smithsonian Institution
Y/ashington, D. C.
Dear Doctor Holmes:
I sincerely appreciate your letter of August 1 with the
valuable and interesting account of your article covering the
ascent of the mountain of the Holy Cross in 1873. I am sure
that your reference to Mr. Jackson*s part in such ascent, as
related in your article, can be used to good advantage in his
journal.
I am returning the article for your files, although I
would have liked very much to have retained it for adding to
my own collection on the important early history of this
section. I have had a copy made, which I venture to enclose,
hoping that you will be kind enough to autograph it with any
other comment or notations which may be fitting, and return
i to me at your convenience.
I am hoping sometime this month to be able to have Mr.
Jackson with me for a few days, at least, as he wrote me
last month of his intention to visit in Denver soon after the
first of the present month.
I will be glad, indeed, if you find a little later on
anything else of interest which you feel would fit Into the
account we are shaping up in connection with the publication
of Mr. Jackson’s journal.
Sincerely yours
RSE :RD
Enc.
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This Bulletin is designed to answer
the questions most frequently asked,
and to give general information.
.a*
9 * 1 '
I 1
THE PILGRIMAGE TO THE MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS
The 1929 pilgrimage to the Mount of the Holy Cross, in
Colorado, will take place during the ten days commencing Monday, July 8.
The pilgrims go up to Camp Tigiwon, the base camp, on Monday, the eighth,
and get settled. The first actual trip to the Cross takes place the next
day. That is the time of the year when the Cross appears at its "best.
The pilgrimage is an annual, nationwide affair. It is
strictly non-denominational, and is operated on a non-profit basis.
Everyone, everywhere, is invited. While religious services are held every
day on a magnificent eminence overlooking the Cross, attendance at these
is not obligatory: everyone does just as he or she pleases. At the 1928
pilgrimage virtually every religious denomination was represented.
You can stay as long or as short a time as you like. Some
persons stay the full ten days; others remain only two, three or four
days. Parties are coming and going all the time.
The Mount of the Holy Cross is in Eagle county, central ,,
Colorado, in the very heart of the grandest part of the Rockies. Its
» previous isolation kept all but a very few hardy mountain climbers from
visiting it. This condition has now been changed, however-and is
improving still more each year.
The Mount (or, more properly, Camp Tigiwon) may be reached
from Denver over the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad-a trip of
300 miles. A rate of $14.70 for the roundtrip from Denver is granted
for the pilgrimage, with proportionately less fare from points closer
than Denver, One leaves Denver at 7:20 p.m. and arrives at Minturn, the
gateway, at 8:20 the next morning. Breakfast is had at Minturn before
starting up to camp. Returning, one can leave Camp Tigiwon about
3 p.m., have dinner in Minturn, catch the train there at 6:30, and be in
Denver the next morning at 7:15 o’clock. A Pullman lower berth, Denver
to Minturn, costs $3.75; an upper berth, $3.
Or one may go from Denver by automobile---a one-day trip of
195 miles, over a fine highway through wonderful scenery.
( 2 )
Last year there was no road clear up to Camp Tigiwon; the
final 4£- miles having to he made on horseback or on foot. In 1929,
however, a good automobile road almost certainly will be completed right
to camp, Mr. F, G, Bonfils, publisher of The Denver Post, is donating
all the funds for this road.
Camp Tigiwon is 7j miles from Minturn, and 4j miles off the
main automobile highway down in.the Eagle River Valley. It is 4 miles
from camp on to the summit of Notch Mountain (directly facing the Mount
of the Holy Cross, one mile away) where the religious services are held.
"Tigiwon" is a Ute Indian word, meaning "Friends.”
The camp is upon the brow of a beautiful plateau, 10,000
feet above sea level. It has an abundance of magnificent pines and
clear, healthful water. The view from camp over the Eagle River Valley
to the rugged, snow-crowned Gore Range is one of the finest in Colorado.
A substantial log postoffice has been erected there, with daily mail
service and long distance telephone connection. There is a large cook
tent, where excellent meals are served; and a big meeting tent (for use
on the occasional rainy nights.) On clear nights the pilgrims gather
about a monster campfire and sing, tell stories, listen to natural
history lectures, and otherwise amuse themselves, The sleeping tents
occupy a semicircle about the campfire.
Upon arriving at camp, each pilgrim pays a registration fee
of $1. This goes to defray part of the general expense. Sleeping tents
may be rented for $1 per night per person. A cot and clean, warm bedding
rent for $1 per night. Meals are 75^ each. Good, gentle saddle horses
rent for $2 a day. When one considers the difficulty of hauling tents
and supplies into this remote region, the charges are most reasonable.
However, if pilgrims wish to take in their own tents, bedding
and cooking supplies, they are perfectly at liberty to do so. Everyone
is welcome, no matter how they come. In that case, only the $1
registration fee is charged. There is a good commissary in Camp Tigiwon,
at which the necessities and some of the luxuries may be purchased.
Accommodations will be provided this year for 1,000 persons.
If some of the pilgrims take their own camp outfits, they can be cared
for in addition to the 1,000.
}[ ' ( 1
The Pilgrimage Association (recently incorporated as The
Mount of the Holy Cross Pilgrimage, Inc.) is willing this year to rent
all its Camp Tigiwon equipment, after the main pilgrimage is over, to
any other organizations or groups of persons—-such as the Christian
Endeavor society, the Epworth League, the Boy Scouts or Campfire
Girls—-for pilgrimages of their own. The rental of the equipment
will cost very little—-far less than these organizations themselves
could haul it in for.
Persons desiring to arrange for their own organizations to
go to Camp Tigiwon for separate pilgrimages should write to Dr. 0. W.
Randall, Eagle, Colorado,
( 3 )
It is highly advisable (although not absolutely necessary)
that you make reservations of accommodations and saddle horses at Camp
Tigiwon well in advance. This costs you nothing, hut it gives the
Association some indication of how many persons they must plan for.
For reservations write Dr, 0. W. Randall, Eagle, Colorado; or A. G.
Birch, Care of The Denver Post, Denver, Colorado; or The Denver
Tourist Bureau, Denver. k
_. , ~ 1 ' p *
As to the most suitable clothing to be worn: the days usually
are pleasantly warm and the nights very chilly. Rough garments, that
will not be injured by climbing or riding, are best. Virtually all the
women wear knickerbockers or riding breeches. Stout, dry shoes are
essential. Rain coats, or "slickers'', are excellent. And warm night¬
dresses are advisable. Take your cameras.
The Mount of the Holy Cross is 13,996 feet above sea level.
The Cross itself (formed of perpetual snow that has lodged in deep
crevices in the face of the vast granite cliff) is 1,200 feet tall and
400 feet wide. A great ridge, called Notch Mountain, rises to an
altitude of 13,500 feet directly in front of' the Gross—at a distance
of one mile, across a 3,000 foot-deep-chasm. One of the best views of
the Cross is from the summit of Notch Mountain. It is here that the
religious services are held.
The summit of Notch Mountain is 4 miles from Camp Tigiwon,
over a very beautiful trail. Horses may be ridden to within f mile of
the summit, but from there on one has to climb over rocks and snow. A
stout rope, fastened to stakes set in the mountain, makes the trip to
the summit quite safe. The U. S. Forest Service is gradually improving
this upper part of the trail. And it is hoped that a shelter house
will be finished on top of the Natch in time for the 1929 pilgrimage.
The 1928 pilgrimage had 218 members, and every one of these
—-even a 79 year-old woman from Chicago and an 82 year-old man from
Oregon--- reached the summit of Notch in safety. During the whole
Pilgrimage there was not one accident, not one case of sickness, and not
one complaint as to food, accommodations or horses.
A religious service is held at the summit of Notch Mountain,
facing the Cross every day. Comparatively few of the pilgrims, however,
go there on two succeeding days. Persons who go to the Notch one day
usually go on some other trip the next day, while newcomers make up a
fresh party to the Notch.
There are many good, easy and beautiful trails throughout the
Holy Cross region---to Lake Constantine, to The Bowl of Tears, to the
summit of the Cross itself, etc. Also, the fishing nearby is good. It
is an ideal vacation country.
Persons who wish further information will obtain it promptly
by writing to Dr. 0. W. Randall, Eagle, Colorado, or A. G. Birch at The
Denver Post, Persons who write for newspapers or magazines can obtain
plenty of material and excellent photographs, entirely free, by writing
DENTIST
FEBRUARY
28
1929
Hon. W. H. Holmes,
c/o Cosmos Club,
Washington, D. 0.
My Dear Mr. Holmes:
I learned recently of your being a member
of the Hayden party that explored the Mount of the
Holy Cross Region here in Colorado in '73 or f 74.
We now have a society called The Mount of
the Holy Cross Pilgrimage, Incorporated, which has
for its purpose the making of the Mount of the Holy
Cross better known to Colorado and the rest of the
world. We have held two annual pilgrimages already
and the third will be held this coming July, a
bulletin concerning which I am enclosing. Should
you have the time and inclination to write of your
experiences at that time and if you have any pictures
that you cam spare temporarily we should be glad to
use them in some of our bulletins and possibly some
newspaper articles. We have a development so far
that enables us to make the trip to the top of
Notch Mountain, directly opposite the Great Cross,
and back to the railroad all within one day and
this coming summer, beginning in the early spring,
the D env er Post has agreed to build a four mile
auto road^Trom the' railroad to our base camp, which
is half way to the Cross. Ultimately we expect to
build an auto road to the crest of Notch Mountain,
directly opposite the Cross. It is also our plan
to build this summer a small Chapel capable of
accomodating three hundred people and eventually
we plan to build a large Cathedral just to the
left of the great notch in Notch Mountain, directly
opposite the Mount of the Holy Cross, and a small
Temple of Baptism, using the waters that come from
the melting snow r s of the Cross for baptismal services.
Hon, W. H. Holmes--Page #2
If this project would be of interest to
you we should greatly value your cooperation and
advice with reference to many things in which you
would naturally be in close touch being there in
Washington, so if you have the time and inclination
to write we would greatly appreciate hearing from
you. I am,
Respectfully yours,
owr/lf
March 20, 1929
My dear Mrs. Oallen:
I do not remember what I gave you
to carry with you of the Holy Cross data, hut may
tell you that I have sent copies of my Holy Cross
article with copies of Jackson's photograph to Rev.
J* P. Corrigan, Mr* 0. W. Randall and the Editor of
the Eagle Valley Enterprise, and I enclose herewith
a copy of my letter in answer to that of Mr* Randall
which letter I think you saw \#ten here*
Tour visit to me was an episode of
much interest and cast a ray of light into the rapid¬
ly darkening shadows of our life in Hopedale. Please
let me know when you write Just what publications I
gave you when here so that I may look out for others
that you should have.
With sincerest regards and well wishes
to you and Mr. Callen, I am
Very truly yours.
C
Director.
Mrs. R* C* Callen,
2001 38 18th Avenue,
Denver, C dorado.
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EAGLE, COLORADO, FRIDAY. FEBRUARY 15, 1929.
OLY (»0SS REGION
A WILDERNESS AREA
LGRIMA7GE FAST TAKING ON
NATIONAL ASPECT-DR. GEORGE
PRESENTS PILGRIMAGE ASSOC¬
IATION WITH GEOLOGICAL COL¬
LECTION OF HOLY CROSS REG¬
ION.
The Forest Service has withdrawn
large area comprising Notch and
oly Cross mountains, about three by
ur miles square for religious, recrea-
cmal, and educational purposjes. and
i additional area south and west of
iis aibout six by eight miles square,
jsignated as a Wilderness area, for
^creational purposes.
For the Pilgrimage July 8T7 the
enver and Rio Grande Western rail-
>ad has officially designated a rate
f a fare and one-fifth for the round
•£p, with a return limit until July
5 from all points.
The Denver Post has issued a three-
age Holy Cross National Pilgrimage
Bulletin that gives all detailed infor¬
mation with reference to the Pilgri-
lage. These may bla had by writing
he Denver Post or on application to
>r. O. W. Randall. Newspaper corres-
ondents, magazine writers or persons
urnisMng material to religious puhli-
ations anywhere who desire photo-
;raphs or information relative to the
Pilgrimage can obtain information and
iictures by writing A. G Birch, Pro¬
motion Manager, Denver Post. There
3 no charge for this service.
k
AS WITH HAYDEN PARTY ' L
TO HOLY CROSS IN 1873-74. j
Mrs. R. C. Callen Crosses Trail of
Famous Exploring Party While Vis-
itihg Relatives In Ohio Last Summer
An article in a recent issue of the
Enterprise recalled to Mrs. “Dick Cal¬
vin. wife of our former state senator,
who is now United States marshal,
living in Denver, a visit which she
and her husband made in the east last
summer, and of her accidental run¬
ning into a reminisensce of the visit
to th[e Mount of the Holy Cross in
1873 of the Hayden geological survey
—the first survey to have been made
of this famous legion. Mrs. Callen
has written the Enterprise of her visit
and it revelations and we reproduce
it as follows, as of local interest:
2001 18the Ave.,
Denver. Colorado.
February 9, 1929.
Mr. Adrian Reynolds,
Eagle Valley Enterprise,
Elagle Colorado.
Dear Mr. Reynolds:
—~ edition of Jaunary
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on veauiug" ^
18. I was reminded to write yoa of
my pleasant experience of last sum¬
mer. In September I accompanied
Dick to Washington, D. C., and, after
a few very delightful days there, wietot
out to my old home in Hopedale,
Ohio. On my visit, at the home of
one of my cousins, she showed me
a colection of wonderful oil paint¬
ings—said they were from her broth¬
er’s collection at Washington, D. C.
One wag of the Mount of the Holy
Cross. I said, how come this one. She
told me her brother was Dr. W. H.
Holmes, a noted geologist, and was.
with Dr. Hayden in 1873 and 1874
when he made his geological survey
of that district. She then told me of
a very infleresting experience which
her brother had on that first trip to j
the Mount of the Holy Cross. “-He
wag lost -for three day from his party
a»4-itt-4ws wanderings tailed a bear.
Thinking his companion would not be¬
lieve him he cut off onie of the paws
and brought it to camp.” Dr. Holmeg
made the maps and painted the pic¬
tures for the Hayden maps. He is
now over 80 v^ars old and has had
and now has charge of the art ex¬
hibit in Smithonian Institute in Wash¬
ington. He is growing old and is giv¬
ing his collection to his friends and
family. I told her o fthe efforts on
the part of Father Carrigan and Dr.
Randall in behalf of the Pilgrimage,
and I think it would be fine if they
could send some of their literature
to Dr. Holmes, and I am sure he
would be inteUeisted. He can be lo¬
cated by addressing him, Hon. W. H.
Holmes, care of Cosmos Club, Wash¬
ington, D. C.
I am sending bis sister the clipping
from your paper of January 18.
We are all fine. Mr. Callen likes
his position, but wie miss seeing our
old time friends of the Western Slope,
and we wish them all well.
Sincerely,
Mrs. R. C. Callen.
fO.CU . £
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lea? firs
in yeepmee to y^nr fcror of February &3ih* I m
M ating you enter separate eomr a typmrit um aojy of
m$ artlel* m tee first aeoe-.t of tee : hmtale of the holy
C*ronii aiad a photehpmphio print fr^:, w® vf teote a beet
mmgutivm ®t t .e fsw of the mountain on white &Pi>eer with
pewfeet eltarosm the aoov sgmool and tee white figure of
a woww taeeXtais with hands uplifted to the oross* The
lotto? tftaay* Ip exposed ah drifted mow filling a &S-*
IHMMMiim fa the gwmlt* fast underlaid, doubtless* by a
#b«m of tee* fl*» attended «ai of tl e wowaa** figure and
te* five rays of &er orowu are mow filled erevieeo# -tie
figure in really a isore candorf d freak of nature than the
■mmm itself and bam net been sufejeet to tae least rotoute-
i^g on %m pert -Of the p&ttognplMR** % the greatest good
dust it happened teat eur vie it was no timed a® to find the
Mi at tee fortieulny season when tee devoidjsaent of both
mmm end figure mo most perfeet* burlier they were doubt*
less eOsewred by tee winter snowfall «vd later reduced ln~
definitely &y siaitlsa;* It h;* planed tent uc subsequent
visiters m fnr as reported kare seen tneiss in an equally
pb-rfeat state. fern will see by a #a*tee at the erevle*
holding tee mm of the areas that at a slightly earlier
stage in the M&tteg pressM the otaff mast h?we been several
insmmd feet letter ■ltd a ijnrga foot ^o&^pyin# the shallow
ieprewt©B at the ims®#
i« first view of tee erase mo fmm the auisoit of
a 1 # basis, eene iO a? 40 miles away, un& l have a teaite
M$teg its appear-: a teat i ;■« w visit me
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M« in tit# font ttaft 1 m firot of th* Jump partf. to
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If f« hmppm to have a map oboolr^ t&o leant ion of
fiirteii Eraint&ia, too olta of your proopootlvo & trine, 1
ifiall to ipwi&fcly j» 1 m»oA to tote a copy*
atsoar^ly ycuro.
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Howl of Holy toon filisrirngot ino* t
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VOLUME IV
SECTION III
Among the Front Ranges of Colorado.
Extracts from the
mrm.sQin.Att report
1877
”Annual Report of the Board of Repents of
the Smithsonian Institution
for the Year 1877."
" Office work in 1877 The early part of the year in
the office was devoted to the completion of the Colorado
work, and the latter part was occupied in working up the
summer*s notes.
"During the summer, Mr. W. H. Holmes remained in the
office, superintending the publication of the Atlas of
Colorado, which is now rapidly approaching completion. A
large portion of the time was devoted by him to the
preparation of the "Eonomic Map,” the "General Geological
Map," the "Geological Sections," and the "Panoramic Views.
The folloi^ing are the sheets included in the Atlas of
Colorado:
I* Triangulation Map*
II. General Drainage Map.
III. Economic Map.
IV. General Geological Map.
V# Northwestern Colorado.
VII. Central Colorado
VI. northern Central Colorado.
VIII. Western Colorado
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Southwestern Colorado.
XIII.
Central Colorado.
X.
Southern Central Colorado.
XIV.
Western Colorado*
XT.
Northwestern Colorado*
XV.
Southwestern Colorado
XII*
Northern Central Colorado*
XVI.
Southern Central Colorado
XVII & XVII I* Geological Sections
XIX 8s XX* Panoramic Views* " (Page 66)
(Appendix to the Report of the Secretary -- The Work of
the United States Geological and Geographical Survey of
the Territories, Under the Direction of Prof. F. V* Hayden,
During the Season of 1877* )
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1874.
FIELD SEASON OF THE GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF COLORADO.
During the two preceding years, 1872 in the Yellow¬
stone Park and 1873 in Colorado as Artist to the Survey, I
i
had made sueh progress in geological skill that in 1874 I was
appointed Assistant Geologist and assigned to the field with
the party personally directed hy Dr. Hayden, George B. Chitten¬
den being topographer. We outfitted at Denver and began
work at Colorado Springs. A few days were spent in the study
of the wonderful geological formations of Monument Park and the
Garden of the Gods. The party then passed through South Park
and took up the study of the glacial ^phenomena of the upper
Arkansas Valley, the remarkable series of Moraines bordering
the streams that descend from the great range on the West being
well shown in my maps and drawings published in the 74 report,
Page 48.
This work on the eastern slope was only preliminary to
the entry upon the great task before us beyond the Sawat^h range.
Ascending Lake Creek we crossed the-high pass, with Mt. Elbert
and Grizzly Peaks on the right and the Laplata Mountains on the
left, into the Valley of the Gunneson and were soon in the midst
of the great groups of mountains of which the Elk Mountains are
the culminating features. It is the most picturesque and
fascinating region that I have ever had the pleasure of explor¬
ing. Besides the lesser peaks we climbed Italian Mountain,
so named on account of its brilliant coloration - White Rock,
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Castle, Maroon, Snow Mass, Capitol and Sopris - none of these
peaks save Sopris having been previously named.
Due to the serious illness of Mr. Shanks, a member
of our party. Professor Hayden was prevented from taking further
active part in the Survey and the geological work fell to me
&
along. Something of what I accomplished appears in my report,
pages 59-72 of the 1874 report of the Survey, including maps,
sections, diagrams and pictures. It was a proud day for me
to be entrusted with the analysis of the splendid problems of
this remarkable region.
About the middle of September 25 closed our work just
North of Sopris Peak and returned to the east front by way of
Twin lakes and South Park to Canyon City arriving there on Octo¬
ber 20th. My field note books contain voluminous notes regard¬
ing the geology of the regions examined and many sketches and
sections of geological structure. Few occurrences of general
or special interest are noted in our diaries, the ordinary
episodes of exploration and adventure had become too common¬
place with our party to receive more than passing attention.
My report for the season's work, the first as an
official geologist occurs in the Annual Report of the Survey
for 1874 pp. 59-71 with numerous illustrations, sections and
maps.
Tne winter months of 1874—5 were spent in Washington
preparing the report on the summer's work, and in the making
of drawings and maps for the survey.
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Extracts from the
ANNUAL REPORT Oif THE UNITED STATES
GEOLOGICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEY OP THE TERRITORIES
EMBRACING COLORADO AND PARTS OF ADJACENT TERRITORIES
1B74
O “0 —0—0—0—0—Q~0
-Mr* Holmes sketched the different portions
of the whole mass from as many poihts as possible. They
contain about eight hundred square miles, and will be mapped
on a scale of one mile to the inch*
” Marching from hero by way of the Twin Lakes and
South Park to Canon City, we carried on a running survey
along our route, and from the latter place commenced work,
- ■
on the last part of the summer's plan, the mapping of the
sedimentary border-line and that of the coal from here to
the Wyoming lino. This work, carried on without interruption,
was finished by Mr* Chittenden, Mr. Holmes, and myself on
the 20th of October;---" (Page 6) (Hayden’s Letter to the
Secretary)
o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o
"During the season, Mr* Chittenden made 156 topo¬
graphical stations, and the total area surveyed was over
four thousand square miles. Mr* W. H. Holmes labored with
his usual zeal and shill during the entire season, and
much of the accuracy and value of the work is due to him,
"During the sickness of a member of the party at the
base of Sopris Peak, I was detained about twenty days. In
the mean time, Messrs. Holmes and Chittenden made a careful
geological and topographical study of the northwestern portion
of the Elk Mountains, the results of which will be found
embodied in Mr. Holmes 1 report. Great numbers of topograph¬
ical and geological sketches were made by Mr. Holmes, which
will serve in a remarkably clear manner to illustrate the
structure of the interesting regions surveyed." (Page 7)
(Hayden’s letter to the Secretary)
0 — 0 — 0 - 0 - 0 - 0 - 0-0
"Report on the Geology of the
Northwestern Portion of the Elk Range."
(Pages 59-71)
W. H. Holmes
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VOLUME IV
SECTION IV Primary Triangulation of Colorado.
Ascent of many of the Great Peaks, 1876
See the triangulation map of the
Survey's Atlas of Colorado.
OS THE PETM&EY 'jT IAHGUIAl’IOI; Oj ME COIOR&BO UOgt! : i!A IHS
1876
The winter months of 1876-76 were epent in Washington,
D* 0* preparing reports of the previous field season on the
geology ant archeology of the Cliff House legion of Southern
Colorado, and the spring months in preparing extensive exhibits
for the Museum to be shown at the Philadelphia Centennial, The
summer was spent in a remarkable trip with A, D. Wilson on the
primary triangulation of the great peaks of the front range of
Colorado,^ .During the season we climaed eleven peaks, upwards of
14,000 feet or approaching that hei ht, among the a ;re Ion * ,
likes, Grays, Culebra, Torrey, .Evans, Sopris, Lincoln, Grizzly,
yhlt© Bock, lowell, Italian, Blanca, Hesperus and the quartzites,
and, I flatter myself in making the statement, that I was the
first to reach the summit in every case.
The fell and winter were spent in the preparation of
omX
reports in elaboration of th© panoramic views made during the
A
summer and the current office work. The survey occupied during
this period the Second National Bank Building on Seventh street.
{Bee Annual Heport of the Year 1876, Hayden, Survey of the
Territories, pages 187-196.)
My art work was kept up at all times.
A typewritten copy of ay field notes is v e;-
fc, K.i.'t t- .8$, Dr-J t 'K-' ".-I -KJ 8 V
li/0
[} cut 71
'V^ . : - •'
JOURNAL OF TRIP TO THE ROCKY. MOUNTAINS
Beginning August 6, 1876.
By W. H. Holmes.
\
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Left Washington at 6 Aug. 6th., in company with Mr. Bech-
ler and Mr. Atkinson. Fare to Omaha, 827.50; berth to Pitts¬
burgh, $2.00. Beautiful day in the glories of midsummer. The
recent rains have freshened everything. The season has been
■unusually dry up to within a week. Observed that charming river,
the Susquehanna, and noticed especially the curious structure
of the mountains to the west. Pittsburgh at six.• Dinner at
Altoona, $1.00; lunch at Pittsburgh, .50; berth to Chicago,$2.50.
Aug. 7th ; Breakfast at Chipago, .75; berth to Omaha,$3.00;
crossed the "Father of Waters" at Burlington at 7 o'clock, water
low, 9th crossing for me; supper, Burlington, .75.
rug. 8th : Breakfast on the train, .75. Western Iowa is
a most delightful country to look at. Threshing is going on.
The farms are very thrifty looking. The Missouri is muddy as
usual and Omaha is not apparently a thriving city. AftoV* three
hours hard work we are transferred'and checked, etc. and started
for Cheyenne. Met Mr. S. L. Barrett, the lame one, and old
school mate at Hopedale. He has hardly changed, is teaching
the town schools in Columbus,, Neb., and is married and has a
family. Atkinson stops over at Omaha with his cousin, Lieut.
Lockwood. Fare to Cheyenne, 815.50; sleeper, 84.00; dinner,
Fremont, 81.00; supper. Grand Island, $1.00; breakfast, Sydney
ol.OO, Hebraska is rich and beautiful for many miles, even •
until nignb set in aoove Grand Island. j_n the morning nothing
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Rooky Mount a in Trip
could be seen but barren plains, with low lines of bluffs.
Telegraph poles, prairie dogs, antelope and a few R. H. stations,
desolate ranches and cattle. At Sydney the bluffs come close
tip to the town. There is a military post south of the station.
This is said to be one point of departure for the Black Hills.
Aug. 9th : Arrived at Cheyenne at noon. Time from Wash¬
ington 3 days 7 hours - the shortest time yet. Found Wilson
and Steve Hovey waiting for us and expecting Stevenson and oth¬
ers. Gamp is at Davis 1 Ranch, 12 miles out. Averything appears
to be in order for starting. Remained one day at the R. R. House
Had a couple-of games of ten pins with Stove in the evening.
Aug, 10th : The eastern train brought in Gannett, Coues,
Atkinson, Reading and Cuthbert. Reached camp before 6 o'clock.
The ranch is a rude group of low log and adobe houses, with the
usual stables and corrals attached. It is east of the E.R. to
Denver and is situated in a grass covered but treeless flat,
which is surrounded by low smc mesas and buttes. Camp is
just back of the house. A good spring near by supplies ^Tater.
i
Aug. 11th : went fossil hunting with Davis and Harry.
Ten miles to the east we procured a number of bonesp had a hot
ugly ride.
-lug. I2th : Went Antelope hunting with Harry. Rode S or
7 miles over the smooth mesas before sighting game. From a
point oi the mesa we overlooked a broad smooth valley. On a
li.uA.-L in this valley and fully a mile away wo could discern a
smaj-1 herd ^ 11 or 12) of antelope. In order to reach them un¬
observed vie made a circuit to the south and after 3 or 4- miles
ride were approaching them from the east under cover of a low
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ridge. As we rode along a fine buck sprang up and disappeared
behind a low spur of the hill. Harry sprang from his horse
and ran to the top of the spur and in less than 30 seconds had
sent a bullet through antelope 1 s heart. After dressing him we
approached the herd above. Getting within 200 yards we fired
at a couple of fine bucks that stood in front without effect.
The whole band, ran in a circle about us and then struck up the
valley. Three more shots each were fired at the running hand
but without even wounding one. afterward we chased another
hand, hut did not succeed, in killing anything, be were now
almost famished and started for a spring which Harry had seen
in the neighborhood. After a short rest we rode to camp. Ste¬
venson and Hi"s. Stevenson, Pearson, Techier. Chittenden and
others arrived in the evening. Dr. Hayden is in Cheyenne, also
Dr. Endlich. At night a fearful wind storm swept through camp;
at 9 in the morning it was still
Aug, loth : nearly all 1 .of
son 1 s and Gannett ! s toward Denver
Bechler goes to Pawlins tomorrow
die Park.
blowing.
the Divisions moved out,
, Chittenden by rail th A
and Cou.es will go soon to
awlins
Mid-
Aug. 14th : Off for Denver at five o'clock. Breakfast
with Gannett at Creely. Pound the pack trains there, they hav•
*
ing made a 40 mile march. Rat up at CharpeS&s-.. Denver, and
went to work mailing purchases of articles for the trip.
Aug. 15th : In the afternoon the party came in and were
soon aboard a freight car bound for SI Lloro.
Aug. 16th: Took the two o'clock train for SI Horo. Dade
goodbye to Gannett, Peal© and Stevenson at Pueblo
Arrived at
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Rocky Mountain Trip
El Mono at 2 in the morning. Our party consists of Dr. Hayden,
Mr. Wilson, Mr. Atkinson, Mr. Reading and myself. Dr. H. Peale
and I set to work to study the geologic section from the Divide
to Colorado Springs, and they seem to be convinced that 1 was
right in esteeming the Monument Creek group as separate from the
Divide group and.that the interval between is filled with sands
and marls - red, white and yellow - some 700 feet in thickness.
civ
Matched the sunset behind the Pikes Peak group and found camp
in a corral, El Mono at 2 o’clock August 18th.
Aug. 18th : El Moro. Thursday the outfit was packed and
sent forward to the base of Fishers Peak. Dr. Hayden I rode
westward to the duffs, three miles from El Moro. The strata
crossed m die gradual, slope were about 800 feet of cretaceous
shales, containing toward the top specimens of inoceramus bacu~
lites, etc. in concretions. About 200 feet followed these com¬
posed of alternate layers of sandstone and shales. The first
escarpment of the bluffs is of a massive white sandstone, some¬
what, liregular, bedd.ed 150 to 180 ieet thick. Above this are
about 200 feet of shales and coal bearing strata, then 40 or 50
feet of sandstone, yellowish and firm. A
higher ridge beyond
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capped with a massive sandstone.
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1
Passed through Trinidad - which is a lively little tom - mostly
American. Reached camp half way up Fisher Peak before night.
Aug . 19 th : Made an early start for the summit of hi pliers
Peak. The castle-like summit hung high above us, the basaltic
cliffs appearing almost vertical and certainly difficult to scale
We kept up the left face of a ridge that led up to the peak and
approached the base of the turret-like summit from the northeast.
Found a high hitching place for our mules in a little amphithea¬
ter within 200 feet of the top. On climbing up we soon found
ourselves on the crest of a ridge that connects the peak with
the tableland to the east. This narrow sinuous isthmusVAppears
in one of my sketches - see large book. The basalt is from 500
to 700 feet thick and for the last 150 to 200 forms a vertical
semi columnar wall. The summit has a nearly flat table of several
acres in extent covered with grass and flowers. The view from
the summit is of considerable interest. Pikes Peak appears in
the north. The Greenhorn mountains and the Spanish peaks follow
to the west and the Calabra group and range continue to the
south. The great broken lignitic table land lies under us to
the west, circling from near its Spanish peaks at the north far
Rocky fountain Trip
out around the Raton hills 1 to the east and touching the range,
apparently, far to the south. The streams, and especially the
BungatOire, have cut deep gashes in this table land, exposing
the cretaceous shale for a little distance up the valleys. The
higher part of the ”Hills, u i.e. Fisher Peak and the table land
to the east have been capped and preserved by a. heavy bed of
basalt. In descending we gathered fine raspberries and choke
cherries. Harry Yount had been out hunting all day but returned
during a heavy rain storm without game. As we sat in an old
house, by which we had camped, Harry looked out one of the win¬
dows and suddenly said, "Mr. Holmes, get your glasses and lets
look for deer over against those hills. n At the same time he
looked across the valley which intervened and saw four deer,
two does and two fawns, playing about on the slope some } of
a mile away. In an instant he was off with his gun and with
our glasses we watched him approach the game through the bushes
and trees. Presently they ran and stopped and returned to look.
then ran again and a shot from Harry’s rifle sent them frying,
out one only leaped wildly for a while and plunged into the
bushes dead. The others were allowed to escape.
Aug. 20th : Sunday. At Trinidad. A twenty-five’mile
march, first down the hills through Trinidad and then up the fur
gatory river toward the mountains completed this day’s work.
Trinidad was alive. The country people came in to do their
purchasing, etc., on Sunday. The stores and saloons are all
open. Up the river the settlements are all Mexican and the
people and their surroundings are most unique and interesting.
One feels almost as if suddenly transported to some foreign
MU dill, LIU 1J1U
land so different are the people and th.e arts and occupations,
habits and habitations, their small stature and dark color be¬
ing scarcely fairer than Indians. Their rough dress and homely
women, their small illy furnished,flat-roofed adobe houses, their
herds of goats and ?jhite backed sheep, and above all their har¬
vesting with sickles and threshing on the bare ground by driving
sheep and goats over the grain, greatly impressed us. One of
the most picturesque sights I have ever seen was a view from a
promontory overlooking the valley of the Purgatory. In the dis¬
tance was Fishers Peak quite blue and indistinct, while nearer
between the green hills lay the beautiful valley, yellow with
the rich harvest. In the foreground was a most interesting
group of a dozen or more Mexicans - men, women and children -
busily engaged cleaning wheat. The circular space had been
cleared, the grain laid do mi and tramped out by goats and.the
straw raked to one side, and now they were separating the grain
from the chaff. Two men held a large sieve between them, while
ti
the women and girls carried the uncleaned grain in pans \or bas¬
kets to feed this primitive mill. A fair breeze was blowing
and a gentle movement of the sieve by the aid of the wind sep-
arated the chaff from the grain, which fell to the ground In a
great heap that looked like so much gold. The landscape, the
houses, the varied costumes of the people and the oddity of
their occupation, fairly enchanted us. Camped by the river,
which is quite muddy, and had visits from a number of the in¬
habitants, a greater portion of whom are dogs. Men, women and
children look like starvelings and are totally without educa-
tion. we were much amused hy the herds of goats that came down
Rocky Mountain Trip
driven "by the herd boys to the river crossing on their way to
the corrals for the night. The lambs or kids were considerably
frightened at the roaring though shallow water and their antics
afforded us much fun.
Aug. 21st : Marched 25 miles farther up and camped on
the banks of the stream ( which is here a fine mountain creek)
and by the border beautiful meadows surrounded by pine covered
hills. The rocks are nearly all of the lignitic formation. Coal
seams could be seen cropping out nearly everywhere. This beau¬
tiful little valley has been washed out of the cretaceous shales,
which were here exposed by a lateral fraction or outpush from
the range. The lignitic forms the upper parts of the surround¬
ing walls.
Aug. 22nd : A cool, windy morning. Followed the Purga¬
tory up to the base of the hog backs of the lower cretaceous
and found the road turning to the south up the depression eroded
from the middle cretaceous shales. There is here a good deal
of pine timber and the grass and vegetation are very fresh and
green. Large herds of sheep are kept on this range by Mexican
paisanos. From Purgatory Creek we crossed a low divide into
the head of the Vernajo. a tributary of the Canadian. From the
head of this valley we turned to the westward and crossed into
the Costilla valley, leaving Costilla peak on the south and the
Celabra group on the north. In the meadows are a few Mexican
ranches. The people are the lowest I have seen. They are hardly
better than Indians. Some .of the young women smear their faces
wioh a heavy coat ol dull red paint. They are most uncouth and
.
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obnoxious creatures. The wheat, which has been sowed in small
patches, is quite green and the corn stands no chance to ripen
• and beside the grasshoppers are taking it by storm. Camped
after 20 or 25 miles in a little park on the Costilla.
- -k
August 23rd : Broke camp and set out at an early hour
for QulfCb/ra Greek, a heavy white frost covered the ground and
small pools of water were covered with ice. The trail across
the divide is very bad;for ten miles of the way it was a scram¬
ble over logs and rocks and up and down very steep places. Twen¬
ty -five miles - a. long day's march - being completed, we camped
on Gulabra Creek near the base of the peak. The Costilla and
It
Gulabra creeks are branches of the Del ITorte and in their lower
course flow through the San Luis park.
Aug. 21-th : Gulabra Peak. Bose at daylight, ate break-
fast, saddled up and were off by sunrise. Followed a long spur
that led up to the main western spur of the peak. Hitched within
1G00 feet of the top. Made a complete panorama, which filled
12 pages. The Baton Hills lay beneath us to the east ai^ the
Spanish peaks made a very fine portion of the landscape. Cas-
tilla Peak appeared in the south and Sierra Blanca and the Cre-
tones in the north. The view to the west is particularly inter-
•i \
esting. The San Luis park with its buttes and wooded hills, 'its
lakes and river courses and its blue distances,presents a grand
aspect indeed. Descended to camp in good time. The rocks in
the neighborhood of .the mountain are metuworphic .
Aug, a5wh : marched 20 miles to Port Garland - a military
post near the base of Sierra Bianca. For a few miles we were
in the foot hills, but emerging from these we came out upon the ■
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Rocky- fountain Trap
flat plain of the park, he reached Garland before noon and
found but little mail. There were a number of pleasant gen¬
tlemen, officers of the past, there - especially in the neigh¬
borhood of the settlers store where whiskey ran like water end
most of the officers were soaked. Major Jewett is in command
and seems a very nice gentleman. Camped at the south foot of
Sierra Blanca.
Aug. 25th : Rainy morning, not possible to make the climb
today. The camp is under a clump of aspens by a small brook.
It is a pleasant place. Attempted a sketch of a portion of camp,
but had indifferent success. The outlook upon the park is most
wonderful. The effects of light, shadow and color that pass
over- the velvety plain on such a day - sunlight and shower. A
couple of sketches very faintly and imperfectly represent its
charms. 1 know of no place that affords a richer field for the
painter than these mountains along the east side of San Luis
Park. The sunsets are always fine.
Aug. 27th : Rode out with Dr. Hayden to make some^ geol¬
ogic examinations. Pound the outcrops about the east base to
be a modern conglomerate tipped up at an angle of 60° and strik¬
ing S. fl'f S. .7. Passed over the drift covered terraces and ridges.
Much of the drift seems to t ome
recent conglomerate. Hunted for
turned to camp without game. Pa
there must have been 3000 head;
from the disintegration of the
a while without success and re¬
seed a herd of Mexican sheep;
e-bout one-third were black. A
boy and dog tended them. Harry shot a small, perfectly white
rabbit. The clouds hung low along the ribbed slopes of Blanca
as they had done yesterday.
Rocky Mountain Trip
1
Aug. 26tli : Morning promised a clear day and we set out
for the summit of Blanca. Dr. Hayden, Rilson, Atkinson, Redden
and myself rode up a narrow and steep ridge to timber line. Some
two hours work. Hitched our mules to the highest bushes or to
the rocks and began the dreaded and terrible climb, 2600 feet
vertical and about 6 miles horizontal, with much up and down.
First up about 1000 feet to the first shoulder of the main south¬
ern spur, then down slightly along a saddle and up 500 feet to
the second and main shoulder, all this distance over the steep¬
est possible grades of rough broken, recompacted and loose rock.
i
But this much was only the introduction, the prelude to a great
act. The two miles of serrated sharp and ragged comb that con¬
nect this high southern shoulder with the main pyramidal summit,
which now appeared to the north, seemed a pathway Impossible to
-.tv*-’-'•v I'O.I •• ...... , r ; ^
mortals. Re pushed steadily forward, crawling and sklppino* and
A p'oTslng, climbing up and now letting ourselves down until we
p —
found ourselves at the base of the last sharp ascent. Hr. Ills on
and I reached the summit at 10 o’clock 30 minutes, the Others
shortly following. It seems a day's work to describe the scene -
nay a month. Let ms jot down a few helps to the memory. The
sharp, jagged spurs that lead out in four directions to the first
great shoulders; the mighty amphitheater heads of valleys; the
awful chasms and dizzy precipices; the crestones dark beneath
the clouds to the north; the tree dotted slopes and the ribbed
and scarred summits and the two low passes, Mosca and Music.
The inimitable park to the west and far beneath us a mysterious
unreal land, hazy and blue in the distance, hemmed in by bluer
mountains and doubed wioh fanciful patters of s and cloud
( )
,
Ho dry fountain Trip
r
shadows and highly colored, velvety grass (or vegetation). The
fleeting fleecy clouds tipping the peaks and hanging like airy
animated creatures over the lowlands - altogether a scene unpar¬
allelled, sublime as an ocean and to the eye as limitless. To
the north and. east were Bikes . Peak 100 miles away, and the Green-
horn Mts. and Wet Mt. valley and Huerfano park. The plains and
the Bauldy group and the Sanghu de Christo and Aveta passes, the
Culabra, Castilla and groups of mountains to the south Rite Lit.
Sandenlonia Lit., the summit district and the valley of the Rio
Grande, with a line of light to the south and west. The descent
r
was apparently more wearisome than the ascent. We reached camp
at dark as weary ax a set of mortals as could have been met in
many miles.
Aug, 29th : Marched to the 7iio Grande. The Sierra Blanca
is all schistose near camp and extending for a mile southwest is
a dyke quite narrow, a row of small hills to the left and we
passed from camp out to the borders of the plains is trachytic(?)
Trees,pinons,yet.pines sparse, aspens, cottonwoods, willow, wild
cherry, sage, greasewood and other shrubs. The streams, i.e.
the small ones, soon Sink in the plain. Passed a few adobe
houses and fenced meadows, then all is level and' barren. March
near 50 miles. Struck road within ten miles of river. Camped
at ranch near river.
Aug. 50th : Marched up river to Del ITorte. Lunched at
the Modoc Ranch. Mr. Venable informs us that there has been
more than ordinary amount of travel - mostly to the San Juan
mines. Season has been dry. Hay is ;15 per ton. Del Horte
looking up. Times are much better than last year. Camped by
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the bridge that crosses to Luna among the Cottonwood trees.
Aug. 51st : Got ready at an early hour for a side trip
to Blaine peak in the Summit district 40 miles southwest of Del.
Norte. Wilson, Atkinson and I set out with a couple of pack
mules. Followed the wagon road to the Summit mines, 30 miles,
and passed on through the swampy highland and camped at sundown
within 6 or 7 miles of the peak.
Sept. 1st; Blaine peak (?) Summit District. Node over
i !■■■ ■ . ini n i ■■ v~- - - - -Man ir
to. the peak and hitched within less than 1000 feet of the summit.
Most of the way was over swampy land and boggy slopes. The peak
is not extraordinary, is tr achy tic and steep on the north side.
Got my first good view of the San Juan Mountains, which with the
great Quarts itic group beyond with its thousand sharks teeth sum¬
mits, made one of the sublimest of mountain panoramas. The grand
mass of summits with their bare scarred sides and the dusky tinted
slopes descending into the blue depths of the canons and valleys;
the ragged crags of the foreground and the extremely long and
steep slides and timbered slopes of the valley head beneath us.
v
The speckled checkered mixture of dolors near the timber lines
and the undefined shapes and distances and a peculiarly inter¬
esting showery sky, all should be seen and wondered at and por¬
trayed by the painter. To the west and the valleys of the north
branches of the Ban Juan, the Laplata mountains could be seen;
beyond this the Mesa Verde and the tips of the summits of Sate.
To the south the low country of the San Juan basin and beyond
this the C arms tan d Tunecha mountains. I made a somewhat de¬
tailed sketch of the trachytic group to the south. The western
and southern border of the Summit district; Banded Mt. is the
Rocky Mountain Trip
highest point. The main central portion of the Summit district
is a peculiar and remarkable region. The drainage is very im¬
perfect and as a consequence the central valleys are great bogs -•
very high and cold and uninviting although from a distance they
seem a land of meadows, as the whole surface is covered with rich
grass and shrubbery and the dryer slopes are fragrant with spring
flowers. Pine forests occupy a large part of the higher slopes.
The mining region appears to be near the center of the district
and a group of high volcanic buttes seem to contain most of the
ore - gold and silver. Already seven or eight stamp mills are
at work and the general look is one of prosperity. Some of the
slides are rich in color; the country is beautiful to look upon.
The drainage is in the Del Norte on the north and east and to the
San Juan in the south and west. Blaine peak is on the divide.
The rocks are all trachytic. Returned to camp in good time. Re¬
packed and made a march of some five or six miles, re camping again
within a few miles of Summit and near the head waters of a branch
of the South Fork of the Rio Grande.
Sept, 2nd : Descended the branch of South Fork; passed
doWn a narrow high walled valley. There were sweet pine forests
and grassy park. Shortly we struck an old Indian trail which fol¬
lowed the valley for a few miles and then at an elbow in the stream
ihe trail turned over to the east and followed down another south
branch of the South Fork. Passed through many beautiful parks and
Scx'.i much game sign. Reached che oouth Fork at about 3 o * clock and
were in camp 3 miles above the junction with the main stream, in
go od t ime .
iiociiy uountam Trip
Sept* 3rd : liar died 25 miles up the Rio Grande; camped .
at a ranch several miles above wagon wheel gap. In the open
valley above the gap a patch of modern formation appears; did
not examine it. A ridge of limestone outcrops along the river
and near the bridge a massive bed is seen to lap up against the
valley wall. Found small outcrops of porous, impure limestone
at all points up to camp (see map). The drift in the valley is
quite extensive.
Sept. 4th : Passed through Antelope park and the canon to
the bend, then turned up the trail to the south and crossed over
the Rooky Mountain divide to the head waters of the Rio Pinos
and camped under the east base of the Rio Grande pyramid.
Sept. 5th : Rio Grande Pyramid. Rain fell during the
night and early in the morning. The clouds broke, however, and
we started up the little stream that heads against the peak. At
timber line we encountered a heavy snow and rain storm; made a
fire and waited for a clearing. Reached the summit at 11 o f clock
and sheltered behind a small monument and ate lunch and skivered
while a severe snow storm was raging. By one o’clock the clouds
broke again and the mountains began to peep out. The famous
QuartzItic group lies immediately to the west beyond the hivh
^
smooth valley 01 a branch of the Rio Grande. This group seems
to be a breeder of storms; the thunder hardly ceases about their
summits. One of those summits is very properly named Aeolus.
Peak after peak came out and presently such an array of needle
and spire like points were in view as I had never seen before
and as cannot be found anywhere within the boundaries of the IMS,
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Rocky Mountain Trip
liy hurried sketch may help to recall the character end details
of this fine group. The clouds were constantly hovering about
and dragging the summits and throwing deep shadows. A few points
were clear but for a moment. The sun was behind and above, per¬
haps a little to the left, so that there was much deep shadow.
The sun struck the gray smooth surfaces and a thousand points
glittered like gems. The summits are almost needle sharp and
the crests are notched, not like /. saw teeth but like a comb
and the steep sides of the immense precipices are scarred and
seamed with the sinuous lines of the contorted but generally up¬
right crystaline strata. I have never seen, and perhaps never
shall see again, such a compact cluster of high, steep, rugged
and totally naked mountain
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The color is invariably gray and
the great proportion of deep, blue gray shadow - prevailing al¬
most totally below - added much doubtless to the unusual degree
of profundity in depth, etc. The low ridges in the middle dis¬
tance are somewhat bare above, but below are quite covered with
grass and willows, with a heavy setting of dark pines b\elow timber
line. The course of the Rio Pinos could be traced down through
o J
'-‘he s.e. o.i. this group and the Rio Grande was visible in a number
of places throughout its crooked course. The high groups to the
north and west of the quartzites were but little in view on ac-
count of the clouds. UncompagBtere loomed up as usual but much
snowed in. The rocks of the pyramid are all trachytic, horizon¬
tally bedded. The group is small, this being the only summit of
note. The upper valleys here are almost covered by a growth of
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scrub willows. it grows in a curious kind of cluster that from
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Rocky 'Mountain" Trip
above has the appearance of a coat of mail. The pine forests
are quite dense, leached camp at six, two and one-half hours
descent. The summit is always dart: and is pyramidal in shape
from all points of view.
Sept. 6th : Descended to the Rio Grande and marched up it
almost to' the source. The stream lessened quite rapidly and is
always in narrow valleys or canons. The wagon road is very bad;
the trail is much used by pack trains of burros employed by
Mexicans carrying out bullion from Silverton. Some trains of
4 -
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hese poor abused beasts are barbarously used, their backs being
fairly raw. They are picturesque, however, when seen picking
their way over the steep and dangerous trails. The quartzites
begin to appear in the bottom of the valley near the source and
on the divide, which is 12,200 feet high. The trail separates
the quartzites from the trachytes, the latter being on the right.
The view from camp was quite mountainous and picturesque but the
effect was bad.
Sept. 7 th: Silverton. Crossed the continental divide said
entered Cunningham Gulch. A fearful descent by the well worn
trail brought us to the stream which is formed by a hundred cas¬
cades that leap down the smooth rock faces. Mines have been dis¬
covered all over the faces of the walls and zigzag trails lead up
to cabins and leads that look impassable to man or beast. The
stream has some fine cascades and pitches down toward the Animas
at a fearful rate. A large saw mill is in course of construction.
Passed a party of southern Indians, who had a train of burros
packed with apples. These they were taking north to trade, he
bought a quarter 1 ^ worthy about ten little wilted tasteless things
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that had been picked before ripe. The Indian with his red blan¬
ket and bare legs and his picturesque pack outfit made a good
subject for a picture. Passed through IIowardvi3ALe, which is a'
small half-inhabited place, and might be named Ilardville. Peached
Silverton by noon and were met and gazed at by a crowd of lazy
bummers. It seemed to be court day. Silverton is a small mining
village situated in a high valley surrounded by enormous mountains
and reached by the most difficult passes.' Saw Harry Lee, who we
found was on his way to Cvray to join Stevenson and Gannett, from
whom he had received a letter requesting his immediate attendance.
Sent a long letter to Hayden. Camped a few miles west of town.
lexican in camp. Arasta Gulch, Burning Charcoal, etc.
Sept. 8th : Marched by trail through the forest and camped
near the head of Animas Park. The river had been out of sight
all day, as it cut its way down through the quartzite and is in
a magnificent but impassable canon. The timber is fine, both
pine and aspen. Saw a meadow high up, where three men were cut¬
ting and bailing hay to send to Silverton by donkeys - S.b miles.
Carboniferous rocks appear beneath the tracketid in and north of
Engineer mountain and at Cascater Creek form the bluffs. The
crystaline rocks appear in the valley.
Sept. 9th : Passed down the valley or park through del¬
ightful groves of aspens and pines. The land seems to be all
claimed. There are many sheep and cattle - still the grass and
flowers are magnificent. Pa.ssed through great cherry patches
and we choked ourselves nearly to death. Passed the bridge and
reached Harmosa early. Saw a German brewer who thinks of setting
of good catawba. Met
up in the valley. Had with him a glass
Ho dry mountain Trip
some Indians. Passed Hot Springs. Camped where the Laplata trail
turns off. The dip of the curb, strata are at first about 5° and
afterwards were to 10°. The light colored beds - mostly limp - are
upwards of 1200 feet thick, while the red are something more than
1000. Above this is a red and white massive sandstone that repre¬
sents the Trias. Shortly above this, and perhaps upon it, are
the sandstones of No.1 cut. The valley is very rich,but is as
yet but little farmed.
Sept. 10th : Sunday. Parrot.City. 7/hile the party fol¬
lowed the trail over toward Laplata I rode down the river to the
I
new Animas city. Pound one piouse full of people and the prospect
1 1
of a road and bridge. Met Dr. _ of Dubuque, la., formerly
of Holmes Co., 0., who is a nice sort of old fellow? also Hr.
Smith, surveyor, and Hr.Marsh. They have secured a charter for
a toll road and have located and laid out a town site of some
500 acres. There is good water power and the location seems the
best possible. Rode down'to R. Dirros ranch about one-half mile
below and had a long powwow. He is well fixed and has perhaps
the best ranch in the valley. He is working on some coal leads
about two miles and one-half below his house. The vein is 22 ft.
thick. He is to send me some specimens for analysis, also as
much information about the geologic section as possible. There
were two or three other men at the house - it was Sunday. I
tried hard to satisfy myself about the upper cretaceon forma¬
tions. I conclude that my San Juan and Laplata coal vein is the
same as they are working. The ‘veins are similar in thickness
and seem to be in corresponding horizons - perhaps a few hundred
feet above the massive sandstones that form the upper escarpment
_ _ 7a fi h, 3 l ? b t
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Rocky Mountain Trip
of the Mesa Verde. The ridge on which Wilsons St. 45 and Chit-
tendens 1 are located seems to he formed of this same sandstone
and the Lightuer Creek bluff is of the lower escarpment. They
are opening some coal seams in this bluff (Moss and Lee). The
heavy coal vein above which I had formerly inclined to place in
the tertiary looks to me now rather cretaceous, but only by asso¬
ciation - there is no positive proof. I observe that the Lies a
Verde is denuded of a greater portion of the upper escarpment
sandstone than I had thought, and the broad valley of the LaPlata
and its tributary. Cherry Creek, are chiefly on the back of the
lower escarpment sandstone, vdiich for a long distance assumes
the horizontal position , the upper escarpment only appearing
above the Ute village and outcropping along a line to Wilsons
St 45. A large area on the divide between Lightuer Creek and
the Laplata is terraced with drift. Rode up the divide toward
the southeast spur of the Sierra Laplata to a high point formed
of the lower escarp sandstone, and obtained a splendid view of
the low country about the Rio Laplata and below. There itere the
mesa and needle and mountain groups just as they were before, but
all so clear and delicately distinct that it looked like a new
land - fresh and sparkling. What most surprised me was a little
city standing on the former unpropitious looking site of the lone
house of the Laplata camp - a large village with fresh roofs and
weather boarding. If put down blindfolded in or near the place
1 would have recognized nothing. The trail by which the train
had marched led mostly through the depression caused by the er¬
osion of the cret.shales. Ho. 1 laps high upon the mountain spur
ana is paruially obscured oy a capping.of trachytic. The red beds
Rocky Mountain Trip
appear in the Laplata canon and on the east face and eastern can¬
ons of the Sierras. There is more trachyte than I had suspected.
Descended to the valley about two miles below/ tom - Parrot - and
soon reached the trail which passes up the bar (wagon road). A
couple of cow boys were riding up the road and I was somewhat sur¬
prised to meet a light wagon containing women and children and
quite durife'ounded a large Indian outfit that I had descried afar
off dressed in bright colors and covered with trailing gew gaws,
turned out to be a party of ladles and gentlemen out on a Sunday
evening ride down the valley. I had not heard of this feminine
invasion and I was no less pleased than surprised. Pound nearly
all of the old boys, among whom are certainly a larger proportion
of good solid men than can be found in one such mining village
out of a dozen. Pound our camp in the old place just above town.
In the little gulch a dam has been built for the purpose of secur¬
ing hydraulic pov/er for the placer mines. Giles, Putnam, Lewis,
Bennett and others are In town. A county has been organized
called Laplata and these gentlemen are the officers. Map.y good
leads have been struck since last r, but the Comstock seems
to be the most promising lead. They are down one hundred feet
and the* ore bearing edges is 12 feet wide. Distributed photo¬
graphs and books. Harry Lee came in in the evening and appeared
in camp with a blanket folded about him. I appealed that he had
reached Ouray four days after Gannett and Stevenson had left and
had immediately set out for Parrott in order to join us, but being
liable to arrest for having given whiskey to Indians and consequent¬
ly had to keep in the shade at Parrott. He agreed to join us tom-
Dick Giles had agreed to get us an Indian, a brother of
Aiv/i A*.<3 2 t 3 (&£>«■" A
orrow.
Rocky Mountain Trip
Red Jacket, to help us to the successful survey of the Sierra
Abajos, but since Earry is with \is the Indian is uncalled for.
These Utes are apparently very docile and are now engaged s.t
t&eir farms or trading with the xlava jos. Red Jacket is raising
a little corn on Jim f s ranch on the Rio Man cos-*
Sept. 11th : Marched to Mancos. Got 30 lbs. potatoes from
Mr..Merritt. The crops are very nice. Turnips, potatoes, corn,
wheat, oats, beans, cabbage, rye, peas, barley, fine cucumbers,
watermelons, squashes, beets, etc. are doing well. Four or five
farmers are at work, but no families have come.. A drove of 1150
cattle have just been driven in by Colonel Sheets. The pasture
is excellent and high up on the west Mancos is as luxuriant as I
have ever seen. Camped in a beautiful park near the source of
the West Mancos, within about six miles of the Banded peak;Wo. 1
outcrops in the canon and perhaps a little of the Jurassie. The
shales cover most of the surface and extend high up on the west
faces of the mountains. ITo.l may show in the head gulches of the
East Mancos, but the shales predominate.
Sept. 12th ; Climbed LaPlata peak (which I hope to call
Harr a guinnip pk) from the west and had one of the most delight¬
fully clear days that I have ever seen. Every object that was
within the possibility of vision could be seen. The buttes and
tables about Sierra Amarilla, the mountains beyond the Rio Grande,
and the monumental valley of Arizona and the Rough mountains in
the far west. Made a sketch of the La plata group and a few of
small bits in the quartzitic and elsewhere. Lone Cone and the
San Miguels appear in the north and the San Juan mountains make
a brilliant show oo the norwheast. The Animas canon seems to be
Rocky mountain Trip
tremendous ; the walls rise with an unbroken slope to the summits
of the quartzites. The carboniferous slopes form high ridges
between the streams and are succeeded by the cretaceous lines of
hog backs and the level plains and canon divided mesas. The shales
between the bands of trachyte in the peak are changed to hard
metallic like quartzitic slate with both over and under the trach¬
yte. The heads of the Manoos do not seem to cut deeper than the
shales, the whole mountain and the neighboring spurs being made
of alterations of shale and trachyte. In the head of Bear Creek,
however, the red beds appear capped with a heavy bed of trachyte-.
The red beds also appear beneath the trachyte in some of the east¬
ern summits. The trachyte extends considerably along the divide
and caps a couple of points over toward the Wilson group. I
doubt if ho. 1 occurs in the area between the forks of Bear River.
The point occupied by Chittenden and myself last year on the ridge
between Bear and Dolores Rios is Jurassic. Beneath is rea and
then carboniferous. One of the buttes over toward Wilson is
capped with trachyte. There is probably a dyke. A larg^ mass
of trachyte on-the spur near where our mules were hitched does
not belong to the bedded class but extends downward as if it be¬
longed to a subterranean macs. The cliffs are quite high where it
is exposed. The heads of the valleys are full of slides of trach¬
yte. The great rounded beds of loose rocks look mobile as wax or
dough. The whole of the lower slopes of the mountain consist of
a series of irregular•steps caused by successive slides or aval¬
anche masses. Trees and brush cover the more gentle and less
rocky slopes. It is curious that nearly the whole area between
uhe Mancos and ix>st Canon is irregularly terraced by landslide
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Rocky fountain Trip
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The soil is very soft and is covered with aspen groves and wil¬
lows and the most luxuriant grass possible.
Sept, loth : Broke camp in the beautiful park and marched
down the lor; country between Han cos and Lost Canon. The pine for¬
ests succeeded the aspens and oak brush is quite dense. The cret.
shales do not occupy much of the surface below the bend of the
Mancos. By three o'clock we reached the trail which runs to the
great bend of the Dolores. Came upon Red Jacket's camp a few
miles above the mouth of Lost Canon. There was a small village
of the ordinary conical tepees, smoked at the top,about which
were a number of bucks and squaws and children. Some idling,
some horse racing and some"engaged in drying great quantities
of yucca. It is a funny place for camp, being upon the edge
of the sage brush plain some 200 feet above the hed of the stream.
Harry and I stopped to have a powwow with Red Jacket, found him
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quite sick sitting on the ground, naked below the waist and smeared
with white powder or flour. lie conversed freely, however, saying
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that the Abajo country, about which we asked him, was ve^y unsafe
especially to the northwards, but allowed that a "poco ttempo 11
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trip to the eastern base would be '‘bfeno. He inquired about the
return of Capt. Moss to the Laplata camp. Said that most of the
Utes were in the Navajo country and that Old pog was on the San
Juan. Rode on to the great bend of the Dolores and were much
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pleased to find that the report that there were four or five
hundred Indians camped there was totally incorrect. Two exor¬
bitantly ugly and comical fellows came into camp in a little
while wishing to "watch .our horses" to find out who we were and
when we were going and perhaps above all to get something to eat.
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.Rocky I.Iountain Trip
They informed us that a son of Old Hondo do Bueno had been shot
by a Piute and that the whole Piute tribe were g - d - s of be.
The expression of one of the fellows, when pleading with Harry for
a favor was remarkable beyond anything I have ever seen. I fear
that I can never describe or paint it. The longing, expectant
coaxing twinkle of the eye as he peered intently in to Harry*s
eyes at a distance of a few inches, the double row of perfect
teeth exposed at least four inches horizontally, even more.ex¬
pressive than the eyes, made it with the dark skin end the red
paint a visage never to be forgotten. Redden and I walked back
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to the bluffs to look for ruins. All the bluffs and hills about
seem to have been building sites. One hill had a very large mass
of almost formless ruin. Pottery and flint chips were scattered
about. Bight icame on before we could see much. The Dolores is
quite low. Ho. 1 outcrops all along and a little of the varie¬
gated marl appears where the Rio runs close. The grass is very
fine and the wide bottoms would doubtless make elegant farms.
Sept. 11th : Ho for the Abajo. It was decided thdt the
whole outfit should not be taken over to the Abajo mountains, so
a side trip was organized. Y/ilson, myself and the two Harrys
were to make a hurried trip into the dangerous country; while
Atkinson, uedden, Stewart and the cook were to move camp over
to Lone Gone. Seven days were stated to be the probable number
required to complete the work west of Dolores and if good luck
should be with us six might see our return. Taking a good supply
of grub and ammunition, the former to eat, the latter to load
down our mules, for the probabilities were that the Indians would
not show themselves at all. Seventy-five miles in two days, it
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Rocky Mountain Trip
looked big but we made it. Following the trail westward we came
in about 12 miles to Sorouera where there was a small camp of Utes,
a spring and rather extensive ruins. These are mentioned by New¬
berry; I had no time to examine them. Between this and the Dolores
the gulches cut down to ITo.l but the greater area is covered by the
shales. Ute Peak is on the left in plain sight and the Abajos are
blue in the distance. The country is covered by sage and pinons,
about half and half. The soil is loose, yellowish and pretty deep.
Eight or ten miles beyond Sonorara we came to a spring, 0jo Verde(?).
It Is by a large rock In a gulch and is full of coarse moss. The
drainage is probably into the Havenweep. Traveling still to the
westward we came into a valley which descended to the north. Here
we found a small spring to which we gave the name "Yellow Jacket"
on account of the great number of these insects flying about it.
Following down about a mile we found the valley enter a canon and
tum to the south. It is therefore probably a branch of the Mon¬
tezuma. Leaving the canon at the bend we crossed into another
gulch which soon led us into a pretty open valley of some\ 100
acres. A number of small gulches or canons opened into this meadow
spot and a narrow canon some 200 feet deep led out to the southeast.
Near the north side we found a good spring which was charged pretty I
freely with salts - the taste was much like epsom salts. Made
camp near this spring, which we thought to call valla , cilo spring.
In the valley were some slight ruins and pottery was scattered about. |
The variegated marls outcropped beneath the sandstone in a few places.
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In and beneath this marl, however, are some beds of heavy sand¬
stone. The main sandstone capping the bluffs Is from 20 to 40
feet thick. Following the dim trail we soon came to another.
Sept. 15th: Spring under the bluff to the left. Here
there is quite a strong flow of water. Ascending to the plain
the trail led us by a curious echelon movement indefinitely in
the direction both of the Sierra Abajo and the Sierra LaSal. So
sidelong were the approaches to the Abajo that we dubbed the
trail the !i Hug war” trail. The plain is here densely covered
with sage. There are a few pinons and a fair supply of grass
and flowers. Finding that we were getting too far north, we
left the trail and turned down a little flat that led off toward
the Abajo. 7/e had gone but a few rods when we struck a small
trail that led us pretty directly toward the range. The moun¬
tains begin now to show more distinctly and we can see that there
are largo clusters of timber about the base and on the protected
sides of the ridges. Presently we struck a little canon in which
were pools of water. No. 1 Is still the prevailing rocky although
on higher knolls there are patches of shale. Kept steadily on
over sage flats and pinon plats until at four o’clock we came to
the canon of Montezuma, within five miles of the base of the
main mountain slope. The canon walls of Ho. 1 sandstone are very
abrupt and difficult to scab. The little trail we followed led
us safely across. There is a little running water. The drainage
of the entire eastern faces of the group is Into the Montezuma -
the small streams or rather gulches, for they are
east and strike the canon at right angles. The s
'are massive, hard, coarse, gritty, greatly cross
dry-run to the
andstone of No.l
lamlnatedand
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filled with hard seams which intersect. Parts are fine grained
and quartzit&c. From the canon up there is a, gradual slope up
most of which is covered with rich vegetation - scrub oak, some
of which are large, wild cherry, willows, rose, aspens and scat¬
tered about the immediate base fine large yellow pines. Crossed
a little used Indian trail half way up the slope and camped near
a good spring, beneath some cedars. V/hile some ten miles out we
had encountered a very heavy rain and sleet storm which proved
to be the first smile of ah almost interminable grin, which this
uncanny little group of hills unblushingly tinned upon us. Before
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dark the rain commenced and dinner was a damp affair, while the
beds were soaked. Breakfast was taken in the fog.
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Sept. 16th : Aloa jo. The mules had been picketted on the
creek batik and came up in the morning looking dreary enough. The
clouds were breaking and we determined to make the ascent. Clouds
still hung about the mountain top and over the plain. The sun
struck through in places and we felt assured of success. Before
reaching the summit we were enveloped in clouds and wereAunable
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to determine which was the summit. 7/e stopped and built a fire
and I spent an hour writing on my journal, which I had not car¬
ried beyond Parrott city. The two Harrys were sent back to camp
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with instructions to move close up to the base if it should fail
to clear before five o’clock. Y/ilson and I followed the ridge
until we reached the summit proper and unpacked and built a fire.
There were so many clouds that but little could be seen. Glimpses
could be had, however, as we descended a couple of hours later,
of the plains with their canons and the distant mountains,
stratum of loose clouds continued to hang somewhat lower than
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the summit during the entire day. het the boys coming up with
camp. Pound water near the base of the slope and at dark admidst
a heavy rain went into camp.
Sept. 17t h
Sept. 16th
Sept. 19th
R A I N.
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uast evening it cleared and. turned cool and
early this morning Wilson and I rode up the slope. About half
way we came to the snow and on the summit it was 8 to 10 inches
deep. On the former occasion we had been unable to see even the
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near spurs on account of the clouds., but now all was clear and
we looked out from the white summits upon the dark and misty world
with a strange feeling of awe. All about us was a plain;in the
distance on all dides stood groups and ranges of mountains, near¬
est and to the west were the Henry mountains separated from the
Aba 30 by a belt of red and yet gray canon country. Under us to
the north was the curious and somewhat dreaded canon Colorado
with its flat bottoms and red scalloped cliff borders. In it
could be seen the Casa Colorado and the site of attack And dem¬
oralization of Prof. Gardner. Beyond this valley rose a red
slope terminating in a somewhat serrated hogback, and north still
of this were the Sierra LaSal - a handsome, compact, isolated
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group of mountains. To the left of this said connecting with the
valley of Canon Colorado could be traced the labyrinthine course
of the canon bound Rio Colorado. The higher series of cliffs
seemed to be red, while a secondary were of a yellow gray massive
sandstone. Extending from the head of the Canon Colorado east¬
ward to the Dolores there seemed to be a line of cliffs facing
the north. The upper escarpment of this line of cliffs would
Bo.cky Fountain Trip
seem to mark the northern terminus of the loner cret. sandstones,
'which form the floor of the plains to the south, rising gently to
the north and giving a southern system of drainage, which is one
of the remarkable features of this region. Cold Springs canon
and the head of Canon Colorado seem to cut the deepest into this
northern edge of this southerly inclined tableland. From the head
of Cold Spring the line of cret. cliffs extend northwest to a
promontory which is supplemented by a lone butte and thence con¬
nects with the western slopes of the Abajo; as the slope of this
table is southward,the drainage from the northern and northeast¬
ern slopes of the Aba jo is turned to the south and by a semicir¬
cular canon enters the Canon do I.Iontezuma. In a similar manner
all the drainage to the east up to the very line of northward
facing bluff and the brink of Canon D .lores is turned to the
south into the Canons of nontesuma and Ilovenweep. The Canon of
Dolores could be traced as far to the north as the point where
the plateau breaks off to the north. Beyond this the plateau
region extends to Lone Cone and instead of breaking off\\to the
north slopes off toward the San liiguel in a manner similar to
the slope south. Eastward from the Aba jo the streams may be
seen to enter Canons and can only be followed from this by the
lines of cliffs, which increase toward the San Juan until the
canons on account of their great number and width occupy more
space than the tables or strip of highland between. There seems
to be a gentle depression extending across the plains from the
Abajo toward bends of the Dolores in which the shales have been
preserved in patches and from which the streams enter the shal¬
low canons that cut through the gently elevated belt that ruhs
Rocky fountain Trip
from south Aba jo to Ute mountain, parallel with the above men¬
tioned depression. South of this there is a gentle dip to the
San Juan. Beyond the plains east and southeast appear Lone Cone,
Sierras, San Miguel and LaPlata and Matel, south the Cariso and
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Tunecha, Mesa Verde and Needles, and far off to the west the arched
outline of Hough mountain and the mirage like MonumentalVailey•
Down what appeared to be the line or course of Lpsom Creek appears
a long straight line of white sandstone outcropping under or west
of Ho. 1 and rising to the west over a scries of red and gray
sandstones. The western line of Ho.l is south from the middle
of the Aba jo group along the divide between Lpsom Creek said the
drainage to the east, which is partly Hontezuman and below into
Recovery Creek. As to the Aba jo group itself there is but lit¬
tle can be said - its geology aid geologic history seem the sim¬
plest possible. A mass of trachyte (or perhaps masses of trachyte)
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has been pushed up through the sedimentary strata, turning up the
edges here and there and resting in great masses in or on the
cretaceous shales (chiefly). On the east face No. 1 ispturned
up in a little hog back which dips 45° for a short distance and
then slopes off gently to Montezuma Canon 7 or 8 miles away.
Inside of Ho. 1 and almost obscured by the slides or trachyte
appears the purple shales of the Jurassic somewhat metamorphosed.
The outcrops of Jurassic seemed to be confined to the main east¬
ern spur, while No. 1 could be traced around to the north, not
appearing about south Aba Jo peak on the north or east but around
the south and west and in the first valley heading west of our
station and running south (see sketch book). The mountain group
is not a solid mass but rather a collection of trachytic hills
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Rocky Mountain Trip
separated by saddles in which outcrops of cretace us shales may
be seen. Indeed shales may be seen frequently on the slopes of
the mountains. There are at least four of these masses. The
trachyte does not outcrop greatly, being moderately hard and hom-
ogenuous, but the slopes are steep and slide covered and frequently
grassed and on the north faces covered with a growth of pines.
Trees of a large size appear near the summit of the highest point.
West and southwest winds seem to prevail, as the base shattered
and stunted trunks of the higher timber testify. In protected
spots are groves of aspens, and lev; about tho base there are dense
Jungles of cherry oak and willow- On the gentle slopes about the
base are groves of scattering yellow pines and considerable areas
of plnons: also much good grass. There is no game and but little
water - not enough to suggest the idea of irrigation,even ifset¬
tlement should be thought of. Hade most of my sketches while
in the saddle, as the snow was deep and cold and by noon we were
ready to descend. At one o'clock we had reached camp and were
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packed up and off - homeward bound, not at all sorry to leave an
uninteresting place which had caused us so much anxiety and trou¬
ble. Our camp was on the cret. shales by a spring, ilo.l dipped
beneath the surface at the base of the hog back and appeared In
the deeper washes two or three miles below. There will be quite
a little area of shales Just above the eastern base of the group
and west of the Montezuma Canon. Crossed the Indian trail about
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half way between camp and the Montezuma; IT; .1 had passed. The
ground was very wet and traveling was heavy. Camped some 20
miles out without water, near the Utah line.
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Sept. 20th : Homeward Bound-- Followed our little 'drag
war" trail directly toward the LaPlata. Came in an hour canonceta
spring and five or six miles farther on struck the large trail
which we followed for two days out from Dolores. To our surprise
a party with wagons and cattle had passed along, going toward
Parrott City. Crossed the wagon trail and hurried 021 toward the
Dolores. Came at midday to the brink of a precipitous gulch that
led down to the Canon at a point almost on a line between Aba jo -
and Lone Cone. -The glimpse of the canon afforded was fine mid I
was almost startled at the great depth and unexpected steepness.
7/e had expected to cross but such a feat was out of the question.
7/e must follow up the right side of the river until we reached/
the point at,which I had crossed last year. The trail which we
had followed did not enter the canon but terminated at a spring
. near the head of the gulch just mentioned. Ho. 1, of which there
appears perhaps a hundred feet, caps the canon wall and gives
sharp cliffs and angles along the upper edges. Under this is a
steep slope of some 800 or 900 feet occupied by the Jurassic
sandstones and marls. This part is much pinon covered. Beneath
this slope appears the red vertical walls of the triassic, which
extend as far down as I was able to see. The impossibility of
seeing to the bottom, together with the steepness and extreme
narrowness, made the view very impressive. The depth is prob¬
ably 14 or 1500 feet. This is probably near the deepest part
as the plateau seems to break off to the north and slopes off to
tlie south. T/e lunched and turned our faces toward Laplata again.
Late in the evening we descended into the canon some three miles
below our crossing point last year and camped about h mile below
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Rocky Mountain Trip
our old camp. The walls fall off hereto 500 or 600 feet.
Canon Dolores.
Sept. 21st :/ Followed a hunting -trail that led us up to the
summit of the cliffs and struck out through the pinons, pines and
meadows for Lone Cone. Reached a lone butte at noon and the main
trail up 1-Iemmeruchee Creek at 3 o'clock. I got separated from the
party along the south face of the upper cretaceous mesa and on
finding that there were two trails ruining toward Lone Cone was
afraid to wait for it (the party) and struck out for camp, which
I supposed to be in the valley east of Lone Cone. Passed the
Beaver Dams and then took the . it hand trail at the forks and
at sunset was up to the pine timber under Lone Cone five miles
beyond our camp of last year. Beyond this I was totally unac¬
quainted with the trail. Dark was upon me before I reached the
summit and between the swamps and snow and dense dark timber I
had a time getting on, for which no one need ever envy me. Cross¬
ing the summit the last red tinge had faded from the west and I
plunged into an unknown forest, demotimes I rode, frequently I
led my weary mule. Sometimes I was on the trail, sometimes off.
and the boggy, muddy, black and snow drifted forest was a most
gloomy place. At last I came in sight of a light and was glad
I had persevered. For half a mile or more I followed on and at
last rode in triumph into camp - much to the surprise of the
sleeping boys who were very glad to see me and somewhat anxious
on account of our long stay. I told them the remainder of the
party would certainly be in early next morning - took some supper
and went to bed with Ht.
Sept. %£nd ; Lone Cone. Got a fresh mule end set out to
make some examinations at the head of the Dolores.
Passed down a
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branch of the San Iliguel on which was camp and rode eastward from
Lone Gone across several small branches and through some of the
most beautiful country I have ever seen. The aspens are in their
autumn colors and the bushes and grass are especially rich. The
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streams entered little canon to my left and I could see outcrop¬
pings of Ho. 1. I passed over only shales. Kept on a dim hunt¬
ing trail that led between the western group of Miguel mountains
and a little vol. capped, but that stands to the north; and fol¬
lowed up the branch of the Hio San Miguel that heads between the
two groups of Iliguel and opposite the head of Dolores, From the
timber line saddle I had a most satisfactory view of the surround¬
ing country. Above timber line the mountains are nearly solid
trachyte. At timber line or for a thousand feet below the trach¬
yte is interbedded with cretaceous shales and forms occasional
bluffs and abrupt spurs. On a map in my large sketch book will
suggest most of the outlines. Ho. 1 seems to cross the Dolores
a few miles down and can be traced along a large hog back which
extends downward toward the forks. The little group of lp.ilIs
between the two forks of Dolores (the Dolores proper and Bear Rio),
on which Chilly and I made a station last year, has exposures of
carb., trias and Jurassic rocks, but do not extend far to the west
and north as the cretaceous beds sweep around from the south to
the west and north faces. The end of the large trachytic ridge
toward the forks of the Rio appears past the slope of west San
Iliguel. The Sierra San Miguel proper rise very abruptly to the
east of the saddle and are certainly one of the finest groups in
Colorado. The Hio San Iliguel comes out to the east of this group
and can be seen in canon;to the north the red beds appear and the
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canon is quite deep. Returned to camp and found all hands in -
the. first time for nine days, Ailson had camped the night I left
him on the west side of Lone Cone and without food had made the
peak early this morning and reached camp by four o’clock. All the
work in this region was therefore completed and we 'were ready to
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set out for the Uncompaghe Agency. As supplies were short all
hands were glad to be off.
ness I
fidonce
world.
Sept. 25rd : San Miguel River, kith some degree of glad-
bid fare well to the southwest and with considerable con-
that I lay my work in this section before the geologic
Both last year and this this sec ion has possessed a charm
peculiar to itself, but after halving once been seen and examined
has little to hold attention or cause desire for future visit,
unless it be the ancient ruins. Broke camp, which had been for
7 days,at the base of Lone Cone and followed the trail to the
northeast. Passed around the little mountain which lies just
north of west San Aiguel and after marching some 16 or IS miles
came to the brink of San Aiguel Canon, which is very abrupt and
deep. Descended some 1500 feet over ITo. 1 jurassic and red beds.
Found some mining camps in the canon; placer claims are staked
out on all bottom land; the area, however, is small. Passed up
the Canon about a mile and then climbed out to the east. Found
a wagon trail at the top. In looking back up the Canon I noticed
that the upper 500 or 600 feet of strata were light colored and
that the remainder were dull red with a somewhat brighter band,
yellow and red at the junction - a contact. A trachytic butte
extends down to the red beds on the right head of the trail as
we leave the canon. Ho. 1 occurs to our right said left as we
Rocky ‘Mount a In Trip
reach the top. The country‘slopes off toward the Uncompaglere
river., most of the surface to the right being -shales white to
the left Ho. 1 prevails. A few buttes'have shales. The great
range of the San Miguel as well as the Sneffles group is trach-
ytic with a base of cret. shales. From the east side of San
Miguel Canon I had one of the grandest and most enchanting land¬
scapes possible. The subject is worthy of the brush of Church
or Moran (see large sketch book). Camped on a small branch of
the San Miguel near the Uncompaglere divide.
Sept. 24th: Uncompaglere. Crossed over to South or Dal-
las fork of Uncompaglere. To our left is a long straight bluff
capped with Ho.ljvariegated marls come beneath. There has been
a fault along the line of the creek, as on the east side the
shales extend down to the creek bed. The dip is to the west and
the fault has been pretty uniform - say ten miles long and having
a displacement not above 600 feet. The trail to the agency passes
over the cret. bluff (ITo.l) to the left, some five miles above
the junction of South Fork with the main Rio. The dip is gentle
to the agency where the shale occupy the valley. Having stopped
to make a sketch of the Sneff les group, Wilson,, Atkins6n, Redden
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and Lee went on to the agency and I fell in with the pack train.
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We followed the creek to the mouth and took the wagon road to
the agency. The Rio bluffs are capped with ITo.l^ but the road
passes to the north and is in shale for five miles. An inter¬
esting dyke occurs above the agency. Saw small coal seams in
ITo.l; got a specimen fror-iMr., Bond. He says the seam is four or
five feet thick but not solid or regular. Got also a .specimen
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tacky fountain Trip
from the- ridge north of the agency for Dr. Peale. The former
will amount to. nothing on account of the small quantity and the
latter on account of the quality. Got a pleasant letter from Dr.
Peale who had left with Gannett for Grand Rio several days before.
Their trip to the Dolores had been successful. Llet Dr. hack, who
had been ith the boys on the western trip. lie seems a pleasant
gentleman. Head me an account of an Indian dance which he had
seen. Major Aheeler replaces Mr. Bond at the agency. Saw a
number of Indians. Ouray is in the east. Received papers from
Pierson and letters from Scott Paris and Gr. B. The valley
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Widens here and is alkaline and sage covered. A herd of 3000
sheep is here in waiting for the V/emenache mountains.
Sept. 25th : Marched 20 miles down the Rio. There are
cottonwoods and willow with other trash. The bottom is white
and often as hard as a floor.
Sept. 26th : Followed the Rio some eight miles and struck
across the low cretaceous terrace to the Gunnison 7 or 8 miles.
The junction is as many miles below. The river is a fin^ one.
Grossed and followed a trail that leads up a remarkable creek
to the plateau, fhe peculiarity of the creek is that it does
not follow what seems the natural and appropriate bed or valley
near the base of the plateau, but runs down the sloping terrace
in a shallow ditch. This the trail follows to camp 12 or 18
miles up..
Sept. 27th : Crossed the plateau which Is of the upper
cret. end tertiary bed capped with basalt, and camped on a small
creek tributary to the Grand and near the south base of the Mam
Mesa.,
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Sept. 28th: Maim. The North {lam Is some 12 miles away,
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hut we are to make it today while the train marches around to the
northeast side. Reach the summit of the plateau near South Maqrja.,
having crossed in ascending some 200 feet of soft sandstones and
marls. Round the top of the plateau very rough and oovered with
masses of broken basalt and matted with timber. Reached the sum¬
mit of the ham by 5 o’clock and had a good view of the su
ing plateaus, of the valley of the Grand, of the■Great Hogback
and of the Elk Mountains. The mam-shaped summit is some 200 or
300 feet above the mesa and is of dark, coarse, large celled
basalt. 1 observed that it had been fortified by Indians and
found arrow points and flint chips. efenses i , half a
dozen shallow pits about the top, with low lines of loose stones
laid along.the outer edge. Commenced the. descent within an hour
of sunset and by dark reached the lower border of the timber
and discovered some five miles down a valley a camp fire. Two
hours later came to the fire and found only an Indian camp.One
of those could speak American fairly, but they had seen go thin
of our party. We then set out on the trail south, supposing
that they had camped short of instructions and at 11 o’clock
arrived in the sleeping group. Spencer got us supper and we
had a good sleep, although exceedingly tired, having been in
the saddle 14 hours and afoot two. There was good moonlight.
In this plateau region the upper 200 or 500 feet are generally
covered with spruce, below which is a belt of aspens as hand¬
some as possible - below these only oak bushes and other scrub
trees and brush and grass.
Sept. 29th : Grand River. Reached the Grand River some
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Rocky Mountain Trip
twelve miles away by 11 o'clock - a fine, large river but a good
ford. We cross it in a broad valley with slight terraces on the
sides. In the bluffs about are the outcroppings of the tertiary
sandstones. Leaving the Rio we cross a Sage flat end march up
a wash and turning over a low ridge to the north pass through
the Great Hogback into the valley of the cretaceous shales and
by way of a fine canon cut by a large creek. The sandstones of
the Hogback are cretaceous, some 3000 feet thick and correspond
in horizon to the liesa Verde series. The tertiaries outside are
the same or closely resemble the tertiaries of the San Juan about
the mouths of LaPlata and Animas. The latter beds are here nearly
horizontal, while the sandstones of the Hogback, being firm and
heavy, are turned up at a high angle 70 to SO 0 and trend in a
grand curve from the west slope of the Elk Mountains, around to
the White River agency. The sandstones of this group seem much
metamorphosed and the coal seams too have been burned out, leav¬
ing red bands containing cinder, etc. A valley eroded from the
cretaceous shales extends along the east base and forms n natural
pass from the Grand and White river. A dome plateau outlined by
Ho.l and filled in with red beds, etc., lies still to the east
of this low valley. An immense deal of the drainage of this
plateau gathers in this narrow valley and passes out through
the canon gateway mentioned above.
Sept. 50th; white River Agency.
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EXTRACTS FROM THE T 76 REPORT
HAYDEN SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES FOR 1876
Work of W. E. Holmes, -ygy
in charge of Mr. Wilson
"In company with the triangulation party,/Mr. Holmes made a
hurried trip through Colorado, touching also portions of New Mexico
and Utah. He was unable to pay much attention to detailed work, but
had an excellent opportunity of taking a general view of the two
great plain belts that lie, the one along the east, the other along
the west base of the Rocky Mountains. For nearly two thousand miles
travel he had constantly in view the Cretaceous and Tertiary forma¬
tions, among which are involved some of the most interesting geologi¬
cal questions. He observed, among other things, the great persist¬
ency of the various groups of rocks throughout the east, west, and
north, and especially in the west; that from Northern New Mexico to
! Southwest Wyoming the various members of the Cretaceous lie in al-
imost unbroken belts.
Between the east and the west there is only one great incongru¬
ity. Along the east base of the mountains the Upper Cretaceous
rocks, including Nos. 4 and 5, are almost wanting, consisting at
most of a few hundred feet of shales and laminated sandstones. Along
the west base this group becomes a prominent and important topograph¬
ical as well as geological feature. In the southwest, where it forms
the "Mesa Verde" and the cap of the Dolores Plateau, it comprises up¬
ward of two thousand feet of coal-bearing strata, chiefly sandstone,
while in the north it reaches a thickness of 5,500 feet, and forms
the gigantic "hog-back" of the Grand River Valley.
While in the southwest he visited, the Sierra Aba jo, a small
group of mountains, which lie in Eastern Utah, and found, as he had
previously surmised, that the structure was identica 1 wi th that of the
four other isolated groups that lie in the same region. A mass of
trachyte has been forced up through fissures in the sedimentary
rocks, and now rests chiefly upon the sandstones and shales of the
Lower Cretaceous. There is a considerable amount of arching of the
sedimentary rocks, caused probably by the intrusion of wedge-like
sheets of trachyte, while the broken edges of the beds are frequently,
but abruptly, pressed up, as if by the upward or lateral pressure of
the rising mass. He was able to make many additional observations
on the geology of the San Juan region, and secured much valuable
material for the coloring of the final map.
He states that the northern limit of ancient cliff-builders in
Colorado and Eastern Utah is hardly above latitude 37° 45*
(Page XV)
Holmes 1 report on the Geology of the Sierra Abajo and West San
Miguel Mountains occupies pages 189-196 with illustrations.
to
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The following great mountain peaks of the Kooky
Mountains in Colorado were climbed while on duty with
the primary triangulation of the Survey during the
summer of 18?6.
long’s Peak
14,
271
Mount Hvans
14,
330
Torrey t s Peak
14,
336
Mount Lincoln
14,
296
Mount of the Holy Cross
14,
176
Mount Harvard
14,
375
Pike’s Peak
14,
147
Mount Ouray
14,
046
Blanca Peak
14,
413
Culebra Peak
14,
079
San Luis Peak
14,
100
Uncompahgre Peak
14,
233
Mount Princeton
14,
199
Massive Mountain
14,
368
Crest.ne Peak
14,
233
Mount Wilson
14,
280
Mount Sneffels
14,
158
Station 33
14,
000
La Plata Mountain
14,
311
Mount Powell
13,
398
Station 84
13,
200
Summit Peak
13,
323
South River Peak
13,
160
Rio Grande Pyramid
13,
773
Hesperis Peak
13,
135
Mount Peale
13,
004
Snow-mass Mountain
13,
961
West Spanish Peak
13,
600
Conejos Peak
13,
183
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Headwatera of the Rio Grande-Mnc-
•easfal Operations.
The following private letter from Mr. W.
H. Holmes, assistant geologist connected
"with the division of ttie above survey, now
engaged in exploring the southwestern por¬
tion of Cdroriadbi to' Dtv Hayden, the geolo¬
gist in charge, will be read with interest:
Head of Rio Gkande, September 7,1876.
“We are camped on the Rio Grande so near
the source that it is only a small stream,—so
small that a man might step over it. Since
parting with you at the base of the Sierra,
Blanca we have made two great summits
without missing a day, and making altogether
the neatest connection throughout that can
be imagined. You desired me to give full
details, but I may say truly to begin with
that what we have seen and done belongs
rather to the generals than to the particulars.
We have seen a country which is built on a
large scale, and in a large or gene? al way
we have seen it. Each day’s work
has been full. The Becond day after parting
with you, we reached Del Norte, leaving be¬
hind us the little'praised yet interesting and
beautiful San Luis park. On the following
morning we organized a small party for a
side trip to the Summit district. We found
a good wsgon roa * leading up to the mines
—some twenty-five milee-r-and passed on be¬
yond to the base of a mountain (called by
Clarke, of the Wheeler party, Mount Blaine),
making a march of nearly forty miles. On
this peak Mr. Wilson wished to make one of
1 the primary triangulation, stations,
Next morning, September 1, we were on
the summit Dj to o’clock. Mr. Wilson suc¬
ceeded in making a fair set of observations,
and I spent a couple o€ hours making a de¬
tailed sketch ot the Traci>;tic mountain re¬
gion to the south. This region. j 8 the south¬
ern extension r f the Summit plateau, (on
which is situated the ifiining district,) and
lies between the Rio Grande basin on the
east and the upper San Juein valley on the
west. The entire plateau is high, most of It
being above or near timber line, and is rather
higher on the borchns, especially so on the
San Juan side. We thus have a large area
which is but poorly drained and
hence retains muck water, and abounds in
immense tract* of bog or swamp lands. The
Wetter portions in the broad upland valleys
are covered with a dense growth of swamp
grasses and willow bashes, while the drier
parts have oonsideraole fine forest. Oar
station, which reaches an elevation of 13.000
feet, is situated on the con inental divide!,
but lies on the west side of the plateau over¬
looking the oafions of the upper San Juan.
South of it is Banded mountain, occupying
the center of the great group shown in my
sketch. To the west and northwest is spread
forth one of the grandest mountain land¬
scapes that I have ever had the good fortune
to behold. Under us are the deep rock-
walled and timbered oafions. Rising beyond
! these, with picturesque forms and fine colors,
! is the first group of the San Juan mountains,
of which the Rio Grande pyramid seems tq
be the culmina ing point. Beyond this, and
towering above is the second group—the fa!
mous quartzites—presenting an astounding
array of lofty needle-like points, and
combed ridges. This group I have since
s en from a hearer point, and shall
subsequently describe more fully. The
view to the north and east present nothing
out of the ordinary run of mountain scenery.
The Sahgre de Cristo range could be Seen be¬
yond the San Luis Valley and Saguache and
l (50.4?
Uncompahgre ranges were in plain Bight to
the north. The formations here are totally
trachytic and together with the very valu¬
able mines of the district will doubtless be
fully described by-Dr. Endlich in his report
for 1875.
Having successfully finished our work in
this district, we set out for the Rio Grande,
passing down a small branoh to the south
fork and thence reaching the main camp six¬
teen miles above Del Norte. In three days
we had traveled upwards of eighty miles, be¬
sides making a successful high mountain
station. Our next station was to be the Rio
Grande pyramid. On September 3, we
marched about twenty-five miles up the Rio
Grande, and on the following day reached
the base of the peak, thirty miles farther.
Our camp was near the source of the Pinos
river, a tributary of the San Juan. An In¬
dian trail runs over the pass. By this route
we e r) tered the San Juan basin last year.
On the morning of the 5th we ascended the
pyramid. At timber-line we encountered a
severe rain and snow storm. The sky Cleared
again toon, and by 11 o’clock we were oh
the summit, but just in time to encounter
another and much more stvere snow storm.
For i early an Lour we lay on the leeward
side of a small monument, tryiug to keep
warm and congratulating ourselves that we
would know the way up lo morrow Soon
after 12 the clouds began to break, and
glimpses of the mountain could be had. By
1 o’clock we were at work, and as the differ-
e>ent groups came out partially i r entirely,
we snatched, as it were, from the jealous and
unwilling storm our observations and draw
ings. Tee one treat feature of the day, to
me, was the view of the quartzite group,
wuioh lay imm-diatBly to the west. The
vi w is one in a thousand, and > ou would
have been lost in admiration and amazement.
You have seen a thousand panoramas, but
none like this. I prediot that when you see
my sketch you will be highly pleased. Bat
what are these mountains like? If youshould,
in your imagination,put tog; her in one small
group, perhaps twelve miles square, ail the '
heights and depths, the ragged precipices
and polished faces of rock and all the sharp
pinnacles and deeply indented crests and
: twenty times the inaccessible summits that
both of us have ever seen you would not
have a picture equal to this. Words can
hardly express sufficient to enable me speak
* n hyperbole of this unparalell d group of
'peaks. My poor sketch made through the
rents m the clouds will tell you best what
they are like and a sketch of such a subject
must be but a feeble, a very feeble, expres-
si<ra of the truth as you must fully know.
Beyond this group to the south appear the
La Fiata mountains: and to the north the
San Miguel and Uncompahgre. The great
summit of the latter range impresses one
greatly with its height and if appearances
oount for anything the great Blanca has a
dangerous rival. The mountains to the
north have a covering of snow, but other-
th. 86 a T> trao<; I'fHe notice from this point.
I he Rio Grande pyramid is a fiae
peak, named so on oocount of its
•symmetric pyramidal Bhape. It is com¬
posed entirely of trachyte and is easy
of access. The surrounding valleys or oafions
are cut sharp and deep in the massive bedded
trachyte. The character of the conntry is
very like the East Yellowstone and Clark’s
Dork region.
We are now one day’s march from the
base of the pyramid and to-morrow shall
£5? Silyertqn on our way to La
iiata. I hope to get another look into the
quartzites to morrow morning. I have told
you but little and that in a very unscientific
way, but I hope you will excuse me. The
jparty are all well and in good
psaks are done and five by six ;
> do.
W. H. H.
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WILLIAM HENRY JACKSON
Born Keeseville, Clinton County, New York,
April 4, 1843. Educated in the public schools of Troy,
New York. Enlisted August 19, 1862 at Rutland, 12th
Vermont Infantry, and was mustered out July 14, 1863.
In 1866 he crossed the plains to California, driving an
ox team from the Missouri River to Salt Lake. He returned
the following year with a band of horses. Located in
Omaha and began photographing along the Union Pacific
Railroad 1870-79. Was official photographer of the U. S.
Geological Survey (Hayden’s) paying particular attention
' to archaeology. Prom 1879-98 he was engaged in land¬
scape photography at Denver, Colorado. Spent two years
abroad photographing for Harper’s weekly, mostly in the
Asiatic countries. From 1898-1924 he was engaged in
color printing and publishing business in Detroit, Michigan.
Retired in 1924. Had an early art training and his leisure
time is now devoted to painting. (1929). He is a member
of the Explorers* Club,(N.Y.); American Geographical
Society (N.Y.); Historical Society (Colo.); Anthropological
Society (D.C.), G. A. R., and the Cosmos Club.
. • . • . • .
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W.H- JACKSON. /S72
P/zorocinAPHi?/} to toe as
C 7 lEOU)C'/{/M~ s of? vn v
MY CLOSE FPlEaa l = oH Yfia£S
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THOMAS MORAH
Born at Bolton, Lancashire, England, January
12, 1837. He came to the United States in 1844.
Was educated in the public schools in Philadelphia.
Apprenticed to wood engraver. Studied art under
James Hamilton, and later in Paris and Italy. Be¬
came [known as an illustrator and landscape artist.
Accompanied the U. S. Geological Expedition to the
Yellowstone country in 1871. In 1873 he went on
a similar expedition painting the pictures, entitled
"Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone" and "Chasm of the
Colorado.” The masterpiece "Grand Canyon of the
Yellowstone,” was cared for by the Rational Gallery
\\
of Art for many years as a loan from the artist and
later from his daughter, Miss Ruth B. Moran. It
was acquired in 1928 by the Gallery as a gift from
Mr. George Dupont Pratt of Hew York City. Mr. Moran
died August 25, 1926.
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VOLUME IV
SECTION V
Survey of the San Juan Talley, Southern
Colorado, 1875.
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SURVEY OF THE SAH JUAB REGIOB . 1875 ,
This was an unusually ^ventful year for me • On May 1st,
1875, I was appointed Assistant Geologist on the Survey of the
Territories, salary $2400.00, and given charge of the San Juan
Division of the Survey, with George B. Chittenden as Topographic
Engineer.
The spring season was spent in Washington finishing up
the reports and illustrati ons of the previous year, and editing
and supervising engraving and printing wori:. Early in June my
party assembled at Denver to arrange for the march into the San
Juan Country, Southwestern Colorado and adjacent areas in Arizona
and Utah. My report as Geologist is published in the Report of
the Survey of the Territories for 1875, pages 237-276, and separate
accounts of events of particular interest appear in other connections.
The report on the ancient ruins of the region, which was published
in the 1876 report, pages 383 - 408, is the most important of the
L . - \\
latter. My career as an archaeologist and anthropologist began
with the study of these most interesting antiquities.
There were many features of interest, geological and
otherwise in the summer T s explorations, among which the most im-
_ •v.
portant was my observations of the laceolite (stone late) intru¬
sions of lava among the sedimentary strata. This feature is
recorded in "Contributions to the History of American Geology" by
George P. Merrill, separate publication from the Report of the U.S.
Rational Museum for 1904, page 601, with portrait. For Professor
.
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his Report on the Geological Survey of the Henry Mountains, The
Powell Surrey for 1877, and also for the naming of two of the
laccolite peaks of this range "Mount Holmes," and "The lesser
Holmes."
In event of particular interest while in the field was
the encounter with a band of Hava jo^ Indians• After they had cap¬
tured our entire herd of stock, the recapture of the animals was
made at midnight by our chief packer, Thomas Cooper. A full
account of this interesting episode is included in the appended
copy of my field note books. At about the same date the party in
charge of Professor Gardner, in the area adjoining mine on the
north, was attacked and kept under fire in their exposed camp until
they were compelled to leave their outfit, take to their riding
animals and escape. I was greatly surprised to have them appear
suddenly over a ridge at the left of my line of march two days
later. They were glad to ^oin me as their provisions were exhausted.
Returning to Washington October 12, 1875, I took up the
year’s work of study, report writing, and custodianship of collections.
—-
A*. i ‘‘
Beginning at Parrott, or LaPlata City, Colorado,
Tuesday July 27, 1872T.
Started the train this morning with 30 days provision. Our
intention is to go direct to title peak, thence to the ^'est and
£buth. Jackson marched with us fur some days. He is on his
way to the Moqui^ Country, and intends to be cut some 5 weeks.
Hail is expected this evening and we conclude to wait until
»
afternoon. Mr. Aldrich is to go with us to llj$e peak and then
return.
No mail at 3 O’clock. Jackson and Aldrich remain to get it
in the morning. Made Maneos Gamp.
July 28th.j7
C Left Manees Camp with the intention of marching about 15 rhiles,
but found no sheItor until we reached the base of the peak, a
# £h-Ch )
distance of 35 miles. We reached Naragurnneps ,Camp dt about
li 1 \ v
5 O'clock - Kow-d(£-dp pointed out a spring to us - a very weak
and obscure one - The only water in the neighborhood. Without
the Indians we should probably have had a dry camp. Cretaceous
o
rocks only are exposed on the trail. Five miles from the Mances
we.pass the divide into the McElmo. The inoceranus limestone (?)
~(c&l. sand) is exposed near the divide. On the left rise the
escarped bluffs of the Mesa Verde. The lower slope for 800 or
1000 feet is of the upper cretaceous shales. Then came 200 to
280 feet of sandstone interbedded with shales above and below;
then 600 to 80.0 feet of shale and the coal series and the upper
escarpment of sand; 150 feet pretty solid sandstone. Along the
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north face of the Mesa this upper escarpment stands back,(See
sketch from JJite peak). Three miles down the Me Elmo No. 1 ,
is exposed in the creek bed just below the cottonwoods 26 miles
from Maneos Ranch the varie gutaS shales are first seen. No. 1
does not seen to be more than 200 feet thick; it is of soft
yellowish sandstone. At camp the canon of the McElmo is about
400 feet deep. The sanstones beneath the Variegated beds begin
to show. Gamp at Nar-a-guin-nep spring.
July 29th.-
v Jackson and Aldrich did not come. The mail is probably late.
&CUJL
Chitty and Brandy go across the Canon to make a station. I rode
out on a skirmish; passed up to the immediate base of 2>6te Peak
and thence back toward the M^sa Vercbi. Carrie upon a group of
ruins within a rnile of camp, at the head of a shallow side canon
of McElmc. The main ruin is of a great treble walled tower that
stands amidst a cluster of irregular apartments**Some 60 or 80,
and is certainly of great interest (See drawing plan and measure¬
ments in large drawing book). There is, also, on the brink of
the cliff the base of a small tower and on a lower level, one
wall of a two-story house. At the base of the bluff and on the
neighboring points are groups of shapeless piles of ruins; de¬
pressions surrounded by raised walls from 2 to 5 feet high. No
evidence of hewn stone or well built walls. In returning to
Camp from this place I met Mr. Aldrich and Mr. Barber, who had
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&©-t to visit the ruins of Aztec springs. Jackson and Item
had reached Camp safely in the middle of the afternoon. Ac¬
companied these gentlemen to the ruins, 5 miles South of Camp
'4o
and on the head waters of Aroy-d creek. These ruins form the
grandest pile that I have yet seen. I estimate them to cover
480,000 feet of ground to an average depth of 4 or 5 feet.
They are located on a green spot some lj. or 2 miles from the
"base of the M4sa V4rdd and are built of the sandstone of the
Mesa and of the locality lime-sand stone, which outcrops in
different parts of the plain. These have been two main
structures. The western one being probably the most important.
The building has been rectangular; the walls running pretty
nearly with the points of the compass; they arc still about
15 feet high and are fairly covered with the immerse mass of
debris from the fallen parts. Originally they could not have ,
V'Y-v .
been less than 50 or 40 feet. The wall is double, there'being
a space of about 7 feet between the inner and outer walls.
Partitions cut this space into rooms. The enclosed part is
divided into 3 apartments (See plan in big book). The depression
in which there was formerly a spring is under the South wall.
The house and spring have been partially or entirely enclosed
by a connected line of houses or fortifications of which the
plan will give a good idea.
The eastern or lower house had the double w r all only on the
North side. This part still stands some 12 feet high and is
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built of well dressed stone. The walls on the East, South and
West have been small and stand now only 2 or 3 feet high without
much debris. Near the center of the enclosure is a circular
basin ?diich seems to have been a water tank. There appear^ to
be no out-houses to this structure. There is a great deal of
broken pottery, but no tools or indications of roads.
July o0t . -
CNLimbed Ute Peak. Mr. Aldrich ascended with us, had 1400
feet afoot; made it in 50 minuted. Prom the summit we could
trace the course of the San Juan for nearly a hundred miles.
9
Could see the mouths of Maneos, Pic Elmo and Montezuna. Could
see hough Mountain, Monumental Valley, The Blue and Carriso
¥ f
Mountains, The Needles, The Mesa Verde, The LaPlata Mountains
and the Valley of Dolores. Such a country as that to theWSst
I have never seen and never hope to see again. It is dry as
a desert, as monotorious as a plain and as complicated and
impenetratable as a labyrinth, but it must be explored. The
dry canons must be meandered and the blazing hot plateaus
plotted. The glistening thread of the San Juan is our only
hope. When that is once reached, we can make running trips
to the North and South and probably be able to connect with
the work on the Dolores North, and reach our line South.
The rock of this Mountain is ^rachfbe, very hard with much
black hornblende and breaks into small plates which rattle
and jingle under out feet. (See specimens). Fragments of the
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CAAt shale of Nos. 2 and 3 have been caught up in the trachyte
and may be seen in places nearly all over the group of ruts “V
The beds in general have not been raised much, excepting to
be bent up at the edges as seen at the South end. The canon
of the McElmo cuts through the slight antechinal under the
North face of the peak exposing about 1000 feet of strata
beneath No. 1, 300 of which are red.
July 31 -
This morning we said good-bye to Narragurnnep and Howdydo,
who* Wo.th their family boarded with us for three days, and started
down the heElmo expecting to have to march to the San Juan 30
or 35 miles away. These Indians have been quite useful to us
but they eat like fury, passed by their corn fields; Some
damp patches in which they have planted a little corn; less
than an acre in all. It growns in clusters, a hundred stalks
in a hill; will soon be in silk if the dry weather does not cut
\\
it off. Jackson and Harry rode on ahead to look for water;
found some at the Ruined Castle or Hoven Weep, by noon; thither
we followed. At the North base of Hite Peak beginning in the
creek-bed we get the following section: About 200 feet of bedded
/
sandstone, reddish purple irregularly bedded, thick and thin
lamination, much impurity, clay pockets, speckled and rotten
patches, versicolored etc., 150 feet pale, grayish-red massive
sandstone, corresponding perhaps to the yellow sandstone of the
front border country. 300 or 400 feet of yellowish and purplish
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sandstones, somewhat resembling No. 1. 200 or 300 feet of the
variegated maria, called mostly upper Jurassic. 80 or 100 feet
of the lower part of the yellow sandstone of No. 1; the escarp¬
ment of the upper tables. These beds seem to dip slightly to
the South pitching under Ute Mountains so -
No. 1 joins the trachyte for two or three miles along the
North base of the irat; the shale only seems to have been folded
up. No fossils, Passed a number of ruins; among others; Battle
Rock, said by tradition to be the site of the last battle between
the Ancient Lloqucjjis and the encroaching Utes. It is an interest¬
ing and picturesque place.(See plan and sketch). Saw also tower.
Reached the Hoven Weep by crossing the tongue of tfee table that
lies between the MeElmo and its principal tributary; The Hoven
Weep. Hoven Weep signifies in Ute - deserted canon or land.
Encamped near what must, have been an extensive fortified castle*
(See Jackson's views and plans) Hoven Weep Castle.
August lst.-
Jackson and Harry rode westward on a dim trail in the morning.
Jack to look for ruins: Harry to search the Montezuma for water.
I followed them to the west fork of Hoven Weep and returned to
Gamp early! Hot. No. 1 caps all the higher me?sas. The variegated
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shale beneath has a great deal of hard rock seemingly stained
and impregnated with iron. The surface of the slops are covered
with finely, sometimes coarsely brdken fragments of this dark
glistening rock, can only guess at its thickness for it grades
down into the subordinate bed of sandstone and shales. 300 feet
wiiSL perhaps cover it. These last named beds of sandstone
t
sometimes form subordinate mesas, but never so regular as that
formed by ho. 1. In the afternoon I went back to the cliff
100 yards from Gamp and made a sketch of a cliff-house and
drew in the doorway a grizzled hag that might appropriately
have been the eocupant of such an abode.
August 2nd. Monday.
Began march to the San Juan by way of Hoveri 7/e op and McElmo
25 miles . Chitty and Brandy crossed to the Montazuma. I
undertook to meander the streams along the trail. Found.some
A
ruins and fortified rocks also on the promontory between Hoven
Weep and MeElmo, a burial ground of these ancient people. Rows
of rocks set on edge marked the graves. Some were rectangular;
some circular; in places many were grouped together. Digging
yielded only charcoal. In geology there is no change except¬
ing that additional beds are exposed in the lower part of the
valley, some 800 or 900'feet below Ho. 1. Camp on the San Juan
jv«
Aug. 3rd. Chitty failed to reach camp; his uncle gave out on
the Montezuma. Jackson and his party leave us this morning on
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their .way to the Moqu^is tee Weep. Went down the river 6 miles
with him. Examined the section in the bluffs. The same series
of beds is exposed as in the McElmo. (See section of Aug. 6).
Said good-bye to Jack near the crossing of the Old California
wagon road and returned to camp. Worked on my Geological map.
August 4 -
Mo>ved 14 miles down the San Juan, camped within a few miles
of our western line-109° 30"). Passed by the mouth of the Rio
Montezuma, a deep valley with a dry bedibut many cottonwoods.
Met an outfit of Indians consisting of four men and five squaws.
The two younger fellows were Impudent "devil may care" fellows.
The two older were quieter and more polite. The oldest was a
tall slender man of, say 50 years, with a sober composed counte¬
nance and a mouth of ungodly width. He shook hands and called
("my friend TT )
me "Mi amigo"/ said also that they were Hava joes. They drove,
\\
some 20 or 30 sheep and goats, and indicated that their "Wicky
up" would be made at the junction of Montezuma and the San
Juan. My outfit soon came up and T took them to camp, 4 miles
below the Montezuma. Chit t^ had crossed at the wagon ttrail ford
and was making a station $ r outh of the river. The Indians ad-
(get out)
vised him to "Piqua'/up the river but Chitty didn't pike. The
night following was destined to be one of unusual . excitement to
our party, I was awakened at ten or eleven o’clock by a con¬
fusing;. of sounds and the excited inquiries by Chitty and others
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as to who that could he yelling on the South side of the river.
At the same moment rny ear caught the hoarse yell of some one in
the greatest excitement. I was on my feet in an instant, and
shouted in reply - It was Tom - He was yelling, talking and
swearing, in the most desperate manner. I could only make out
that something very disastrous was happening, and that our help
was instantly needed. We seized our rifles.and hurried forth
to meet him in the dark woods, and soon learned that we had
possibly excaped a disaster indeed. Early in the night as
Tom happened to he lying awake in his tent, he noticed that
there seemed to he some rather unusual disturbance among and
animals, and presently that the bell began to tingle as if the
bell horse were trotting or running. The herd was evidently
moving down the valley. He was up in a minute and after them,
steadily they advanced perseveringly he followed hut found it
very difficult to get closer to them. He suspected nothing
(wolf)
wrong; only that they had been frightened by a coyote, in
they
which case/ ould certainly soon stop. Already he had chased
them two miles over gulches and rock; through weeds and bushes
and brush; would they ever halt. The perspiration was putting
noise
him blind and his wind was nearly gone. Suddenly the/-eased
and the bell was silent. He could only keep on toward where
the last sounds were heard. To his utter amazement he discovered
the herd just ahead of him rounded up in a close bunch and stand¬
ing quite still. He passed around above them to turn them back.
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There was the white face
He came within a few feet of them,
the hell horse
of Old Baldy/moving, hut no hell; when it suddenly dawned
upon him that these strange movements were not made by their
own will, hiit under the guidance of some band of Indian des¬
peradoes. The explanation was perfect; his hair stood on end;
his flesh crept; for he was utterly defenseless; had only his
f /ptfcwA, f v f, - )
hat rolled up in his hand. He still continued to move forward,
however, and was in the act of speaking to the nearest horse
when a flash of lightning revealed the crouching forms of two
savages almost within the reach of his hand. They caught sight
of him at the same moment and were so struck with amazement
that they thought only of flight, with a bound they sprang upon
their ponies mid were off like a shot. Tom< doubtless somewhat
unnerved, did' not take to flight also, but jumping upon the
up the valley
nearest horse,, started the herd/ and then led off for camp Utter¬
ing the most fearful yells at every jump. The Red Skins\ as
down
they flew the valley and over the rolling hills must have
felt their blood curdle at the very sounds Certainly they did
not Suop until many miles intervened between them and the scene
of their undoing. In half an hour* oi ranimaLs were all safe in
were
camp and we <xxx3dadra c o ngr atui a+iqg our selves on
having escaped the misfortune of being set afoot in a desert
200 miles from the nearest habitation.
August 5 -
On the following morning we rode out to the scene of the
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mutual surprise and there found the bell, which ha<* been cut
from the horse's neck; a pair of hobbles (the removing of
which had caused the delay that saved our mules) and a pair
of fine rawhide lariats dropped by the thieves in their sudden
flight;. All about were moccasin tracks. We took the pains
to follow them back and discovered that these two had walked
all the way from their camp 4 miles above, Indian filepnd that
their ponies had been brought around to them by a circuitous
trail through the hills. Tom and John rode up to the Indian
Camp soon after, while Chitty a iA d I went upon the mesas above
to do our days work. The boys were determined to raise quite
a noise in the "wickiup" of the supposed guilty red men, but
felt inclined to give up the idea when they discovered - instead
the four men seen yesterday - eight fierce looking devils
grunting over a pipe and looking forbidding enough in their
sullen stoic mood. They were, neither communicative nor polite
and the two boys came away impressed with the notion - as Tom
put it } that they we A e "determined to give us another deal yet".
The audacity of the thieving pirates went ahead of anything
we had ever heard, of *
August 5 -
Not only did they stay all night boldly in the camp to which
we tracked them, but at noon rode coolly down to our camp dis¬
mounted and seated themselves in a half circle in the middle
of camp and proceeded to scrutinize t==e every object in the
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outfit; to beg this and pretend to wish to "Swap” for that
One old scamp had the audacity to nud 0 e me with his elbow
and order me to bring a pail of f, Agua” (water ) We treated
them as coolly as possible; kept our rifles within reach
and held such manner of pow-wow with them as we could.
Traded some matches for some arrows, and gave them some ,
bread to eat. be watched them so closely that they failed
to steal anything, and saw them depart with a feeling of great
relief. These fellows come more nearly up to my notion of
what fiends of hell ought to be than any mortals I
have seen .We mounted double guard for the night determined to
protect ourselves to the utmost. Think I recognized wo of the
Indians as the same we met on the 25th, of July between the
Mancos Gamp and LaPlata mines. The party xxxx has doubt¬
less been following us since that time and will perhaps be
lying in wait for us until we get cut of this South West
corner. They are cowardly scamps who would not dare to &4eal
- where- they could found out., * or harm us persenahly
if it were liable to endanger themselves. They know that we
sleep and eat and work by our needle guns and they move with
great caution in consequence,
August 6th -
Moved camp nine miles up the San Juan to the ford, ho In¬
dians in sight - they had moved out on the 5th. - perhaps
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were hiding in the cotton jnrood groves below. The valley,
at the mouth of which the mules were recovered seems probably
to have been the one ascdnded by Capt. HcCorrib in 1860. A
trail follows it 6 miles to its source thence to the northward
across the sage mesa. a ^
No. 1 cretaceous, as usual, caps all the isolated buttes
and mesa fragments North and South of the- river and covers
the broad mesas that lie farther back. Between the branches
of Recapture Gulch and in a butte to the West# No. 1'remains
100 to 140 feet in thickness of the 'lower part - from 20 to
60 feet is a massive conglomerate- made of principally of
quartzose pebbles averaging perhaps the size of partridge egg.
Nearly all of the lower country -from which No. 1 has been
eroded- has a covering of these pebbles- the result of the
disintegration of the conglomerate. The upioer part of No. 1
is of massive rather soft yellowish sandstone. About 1000
feet of strata beneath No. 1 forms quite a remarkable group.
It is quite impossible -from any evidence here to identify
them- to say whether they are jurassie, frlassie or carbonif,
or partly of each. The upper parts for 200 to 400 feet cor-
i
respond very closely to the so-called jurassie marls, being
a series of variegated clays and sand bedded with seams of
hard gnarly quartzite and impure sandstones, also in the
lower part considerable soft sandstone. Beneath the series
of marls and etc., are some 800 feet of strata, mostly of
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altogether quite irrigative in deposition. Toward the base
the beds are maroon and the hard and soft layers follow each
other in such a manner as to give cliffs a very regular
series of horizontal lines. These lie upon the pale red bed
massive sandstone generally regarded by Dr. H. as the beginning
as
of the Trias, but by others/carboniferous; this reaches to
the river bed.
August 7 -
^ent with Chittenden to make a station on a little butte ^
South of the river and some S miles from camp. A la^rge
area to the South West has been assigned to the pale red bed s.
which in the country ridden over forms in many places a naked
rock floor; the upper part of this bed is often gray and
whitish. At the divide, at the head of the gulches passes.
This bed rises into a low ridge (a.)
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On the station there is the least fragment of No. 1 remaining.
The marls are beautifully exposed, and are here clearer of im¬
purities than I have seen them. White and gray with purplish
strips above and a good deal of bedded sand and saxidstone below.
Some of the iron impregnated beds occur here also and the lower
slopes are covered with the hard lumps. On the summit is a
remnant of a wall, this has been built across the only accessible
part of the summit. These may be a little of No. 1 remaining
on the top of the buttes lying westward, but beyond these the
red rocks seem to form met of the surface -A little black butte
A dyke perhaps stands some 15 miles to the South West. While
beyond this and still more to the westward are the remarkable
fonns of monumental valley. To the North are the Blue Mts.,
but beyond our western line. The mass of them seems to be
trachyte. The beds have been bent up, however, and an;arch
of white rock may be seen in the South face. This arch \Ls
doubtless the section of an anticlinal. Traces of the same
may be seen in a line bf-hog backs that extend southward to
the San Juan. As the fold approaches the San Juan, it seems
to become monoclinal with the depression on the east. The
!, Hog Back’ 1 is in the light red, which here looks white.
August 8 -
Marched from Camp at ford to 15 miles above. Passed the
mouth of McElmo at 4-| miles. On the terrace between the
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junction there hare been extensive buildings. The piles of
debris indicate that they were built of adobe. Picked up
some peculiar arrow-heads and half of a stone ring - probably
a finger ring. Noticed a number of ruins on the San Juan
above. The maroon beds .end shortly above the entrance of
MeElmo and from that to the Mancos the bluffs are formed by
the undefined set of strata from No. 1 down. At the MeElmo
No. 1 is at least 1000 feet above the Rdd beds, at the Mancos
less than 300.
Camped in a beautiful grassy park on the bank . - of San Juan.
Still keep close guard on our stock.
August 9th.-
Marched up the Rio intending to camp at the mouth of Mancos.
7/hen within about a mile of that Rio, we found the trail im¬
possible and encamped two miles below and -J of a mile above
\\
the ford, near which there have been extensive damps of both
Indians and Whites ♦ There skeins to be a large creek entering
the Rio from the opposite side, probably Gothic Greek, so-called.
Pound a ford just at camp. Since we desired to move South into
the Carriso Mountains* this was very convenient. Had a royal
bath.
August 10th.-
Crossed the San Juan with the train and struck a trail lead¬
ing to the Southwest on which were many horse and burrow
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tracks. 5 miles from the Rio came upon a little monument,
which is possibly at the corners of four territories. We soon
found that the trail would lead us around the East end of the
Sierra!, so we turned to the right to strike a gulch that lies
between two masses of trachyte. (See sketch and map) .
A circular spur extends off to the S. W. and is mostly rounded
and smooth, affording excellent pasture lands. To the South
T
little can be. seen but the Tunecha Mts., and to the Southwest
and West only a red plateau country. The De ChelJy can
detected occasionally as it runs off to the North West, hiding
frequently in red gorges, passing all the way through a most
barren country with a surface mostly of bare rock. The cliffs
of the lower k&roon and the floors of the light red. To the
West from the main mass of the Carriso, extends a plateau like
promontory - similar to the one over which we passed in our
\\
ascent, beyond it the country falls off for some 5 or 6 miles
and the red beds (maroon) which come to the surface here are
✓
slightly arched, forming an anticlinal spur wnich dies out
before reaching the De Chelly. On this spur is a large out¬
standing butte (See map) some 5 or 600 feet high and capped
with Ho. 1 (?) To the right of this and in the broad flat
flat space West of Gothic Creek are 3 or 4 red tabled buttes
formed of the laminated maroon beds and are very pretty.
North of these is the great broken tabled area that borders
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the San Juan. Through this are cut the valleys of Gothic and
Navijoe creeks. The Rio, San Juan, The Mancos, The Ute Mts.
and the Mesa Verde can be seen to the North and East.
The Needles and Hog-back East, and Monumental Valley West.
Struck a good trail in descending and reached camp in good
t inie»
August 12th.-
Reraoved Camp to the next Indian Camp West - some six miles -
the last waters in this direction until beyond our lines.
Here the Navajoes have houses - conical lodges of wood covered
with dirt. There are very large herds of sheep and horses and
some c-amel^V There are only a few springs of water and these
are 5 miles out from the base of the Mountains. We encamped
nearly a mile West of the Indian village, by a small sprang.
Grass is good and plentiful. Many of the Indians that came In
were the same we had seen at the other camp. They came to trade
and get something to eat. Cne very intellegent and interesting
woman (Marouka) came over, wishing to procure one of our copper
*
pails. They all seem to ha„e the greatest desire to possess
these. She was quite merry and. I imagined her smile and laugh
to be as bewitching as many of my friends East. They all have
fine teeth. Hers were splendid and her hair as black as jet,
and glistened like silk. They all talk Mesican and we here
found the first call for money. (Pesos). Therappreciate its
value, but do not "sabe” American notes . At the last Camp
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John traded for some green corn and melons and a sheep. Here
the women brought in some goatfe milk which was good.
August 13th.-
I climbed the trachyte mesa that projects from the West end
of the Gariso Mts. At a distance I was puzzled to know what
the white patches were in the faces of the cliffs. I could
distinctly see that the jurassie. sandstones jutted up against,
A
or were dove-tailed into the border faces of the trachyte, also
that the flat tracb&ic mass of the mesas seemed to be a~~slbpe
(
of portions of the sedimentary
and that beneath this
f
again was the main masses of
beds - so:
the trachyte (a).
Pound the white patches to be a softer tr-achyte( ?) from which
it appeared dark hard shell had been partially broken away.
The dark part weathers into somewhat columnar form. The \light
into dome shapes. The rock does not seem to be essentially
different only the outside and darker part is harder. (Brought
specimens of each). Found fragments of cretaceous fossils and
shale of Nos. 2 and 3 scattered about over the volcanic area -
although every fragment of cretaceous rock seems to have been
eroded away about the North and West bases of the group.
If a theory were called for to account for the conditions of
things in these Mts.; I should say that in the first place
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these had been a flow of volcanic raatter over a lar^e area
of country, resting upon lower cretaceous rocks and forming
a table land. That subsequently a large mass of less fluid
matter had been forced up from beneath this, ratining much
of the sedimentary strata between it and the lava of the table
and arching, both the sediment and the tMn (comparatively) bed
of trachyte. See sections. That the subsequent erosion had
, 3 ^
carried away much of the soft beds - /The mould , and left trachyte -
fee cas t standing almost alone. The general elevation has been
very slight and apparently carried but a few miles in any direction.
Day before yesterday I observed that a low antechinal extended
for a few miles to the Westward, that the highest remnant of
thu.s is a large flat butte. (Station). I now notice that the
northern slope of this fold is not regular - but that another
wave occurs in the floor of the plain between the axis and the
line of bluffs - capped with Wo. 1 and lying South of the San
Juan, so:
running parallel with the first. On the back of this remain,
the fragments of the maroon beds farming the four buttes pre¬
viously mentioned. I have already remarked the strange weather¬
ing of those beds| the regular lamination of hard and soft beds
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that gave such constant and. marked color, also horizontal lines.
I notice in these buttes that one set of th&sbeds have a pe¬
culiar, wave like series of flexures, while the set lying upon
them are as straight as an arrow, seeming to rest upon the sum¬
mits of the nmnute folds, so:
I am not able to account for this, since I had. no time to visit
the cliffs and examine. If it is a nonconformity it is a very
peculiar one, but it is probably only eccentric sedimentation.
While working on the lower San Juan we had failed to find the
mouth of Gothic Creek and were somewhat skepticalor to its ex¬
istence at all. I find that the tipper course as laid down by
Backus is all'right. The curve around this western spur of
the Carriso is very peculiar. It cuts through the anticlinal
apur close under this edge of the trachytic table and also
through the subordinate wave, exposing the red bed (pale) in
both, but beyond its course is indefinite. The Engineer map
would turn it to the westward by the red tables and into the
San Juan almost South of the Blue Mountains and near our
western line. From this point if appears to ~ut its way through
the No. 1 capped mesas South of the San Juan and enter that
river some 25 miles higher up than the Engineer’s put it.
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August 14th.-
Arizon*tis about finished and we thank the Lord for it. The
task has been a hard one and the risk and worry of carrying on
a survey among a herd of meddlesome and treacherous savages -
added to the work in such a boiling climate - such a desert is
too much for flesh and blood to endure always. Concluded to
stay here one more day to examine Gothic Creek and rest our
riding animals. I rode out to the Westward of camp in order
to strike the creek (which was some 6 or 8 miles away) about
the point where it was supposed to turn West. Pound the
country very level. Came to the flat space where I expected
to find the usual creek wash, passed on mile after mile and
finally found that I was riding ait a little West. Cn turning
around I found the creek valley behind me, looking just as
it did an hour before from the other side. The flow of water
has been ao slight as to spread all over the flat space and
leave no wash. I was now able to determine to a certainty
that the drainage of the valley is to the North into the San
Juan and not to khe West as given by the Engineers. Rodea^long
distance up the West slope in order to ma&e sure that the course
could not change to the Westward. Returned to Camp and was sur
prised to find no Indians about - That the boys had had a ter¬
rible scare about the mules thinking that they had been stolen.
Tom w r as out hunting for them. Had started for the San Juan on
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the only remaining mule, hut here the mules were all right
in camp. John had found them resting in a deep gulch below,
shortly after Torn’s departure. The Indians were making pre¬
parations to drive their stock off to some dthej. range and we
were fearful of evil intentions, but one more night would let
us out and we set about it to watch them closer than ever.
August 15th.-
Marched to the San Juan and crossed to our old camp of a
week ago. f- of a mile below and on the other side of the river
there is an Indian Gamp. They have a herd of sheep and some
horses, nothing special in Geology. Navajo Creek begins in
traehte and a little red, and runs all of the way through the
marl and sub-marl beds, not in any case I believe touching the
pale red bed. No. 1 remains on but f ew of the higher of the
area between Navajo Creek and the San Juan. Mostly it is marl
with fragments of quartzite - iron impregnated rock scattered
over it.
August 16th.-
Left the San Juan early in the morning and reached the mouth
of Maneos Canon in the middle of the afternoon. It was very
hot for the last two hours. Examined the marl bluff above
camp on the San Juan, brought away a specimen of the marly
clay and of the tMn beds of sandstone that run through It.
Most of the bluff is of indurated arenaceous clays that weather
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down into a smooth slide,.white and gray with portions of
greenish and reddish lines. The hard sand and chert beds
make occasional shelves. The rise is some 300 feet. A
short distance back from this is another rise of 100 feet.
This is furmed of lower No. 1. A little farther up the Rio
this shell comes forward and joins the lower bluff, making
one bluff some 400 feet high. These extend to the mouth of
the Marcos 3 or 4 miles above. A trail runs tu the Eastward
from the ford across these bluffs and strikes the Mancos
some 5 miles above its mouth. The strata dip sxigxxtiy to the
East No. 1 is exposed in the deeper gulches for only about a
mile. The shales of No. 2 and 3 f^rm a number of irregular
buttes that range along about 1 mile from the Rio, and rise
200 or 300 feet above the general level. On one of these
Chittenden made a station and from it I got a sketch of l^he
Sierra Carriso. On it most of the geology is marked.
The lower 3 miles of Maneos are in No. 1. From that to the
Canon we pass Sxowly up through the shales at top of No.
1, 3 to 4 feet thick. At the mouth of the canon I estimate that
800 feet of shael lie between the surface and No. 1. 400 feet
more take us up to the begining of the lower escarpment of the
Mesa Verde, 100 to 500 feet above this are of what I have called
the transition beds - beginning below with shale and grading
up to solid sandstone. Of this 1200 feet of shale mentioned
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the lower *200 are gray and white, 600 are very dark - quite
black indeed - in the upper part of these are the Baculit£ z
beds in a harder seam of shaley sand-stone. From this to the
top, the shales are quite homogenous in texture and are various
shades of gray, in color. I discovered no coal, except just
on the top of No. 1. Here there are 3 or 4 feet of coal shales
exposed coal. In No. 1 there are a number of irregula r
seams. Mostly near the top. Toward the Ute group Nq. 1
rises again to the surface and its outcrops may be seen quite
high upon the Test and South faces of the mountains. It seems,
hov/ever, to dip only a few degrees - say 10 or 12. The Juras
is doubtless exposed in the deeper cuts.(See sketch). The
black shales form quite a bluff on both side_ of the Maneos.
In it are a number of cliff cave houses, carried away a piece
of pine from one. It is doubtless very old and I shall pake
a staff of it for Mi PodrsPassed a number of ruins, picked
up some pottery and ''Nick-nacks”. In the evening went out to
an old ruin on the flat near camp and picked up within a space
of ten feet S square fragments of some 60 different cups or
pieces of pottery. The ground is full of it. Have passed 7
towers and countless ruins, adobes.
August 17th,-
Moved some 18 miles up the canon. Within ten Mies the lower
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escarpment passes under, and the upper begins to come to the
front. At camp it is about 800 feet to the top of the face
of the upper escarpement. Fortunately we encamped near some
interesting ruins. About one mile below the two story house
and just u$der the curious house with the 16 windows. 7/hen I
passed here before I made a sketch of the group and made the
remark that it seemed inaccessible. Reached the lower house
with ease, by climbing some 500 feet. It is an extensive and
complicated structure - considering the great difficulties
under which it must have been built; is set in a long niche
in the face of the upper cliff near its base, is about 53
feet long and near the middle 15 feet deep and the walls in
places are 9 to 11 feet high. There are 10 or 12 apartments, but
since the walls are in places obscure one cannot make out the
entire plan with absolute certainty. A large circular apartment
A
is one of the main features of tx*e building and is exceedingly
curious in design. It stands back from the out^r wall (From
the point of approach) some 15 or 20 feet. This space has been
divided up into an unknown Ho, of apartments. The curious
i**,
feature is that the ciruclar room has been entered by a walled
passage-v/ay, barely large enough for a man to crawl through,
which passes through the lower part of these apartments. The
walls are raised almost to the level of this tunnel, and one
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cannot say whether this was the only means of entrance to the
house, but such was probably the case. The circular apartment
has been very necely plastered all around and is fitted with a
great number of convenient shelves and recesses and hidden
cavities, here there were curious projections of the wall,
neatly built of stone and plastered. Knocking u£> the upper
parts of these we found secret cavities, but all empty. In
one of the recessed and just by the side of the entrance-way.
Jack (who was with me) came upon an object that: ndde him shout
with excitement and expectation. In scratching among the debris
he came suddenly upon the top of a large earthen jar, tightly
closed by a stone lid. "Harry, I T ve got it" he cried* "X have
found it at last", here is their treasure. Here are the gold
moons at last, buried in the wall. Ah- Ye don T t believe it,
just come and see. Excitedly we cleared away the sand, ahd
raised the lid. The opening was deep and dark and to our
chagrin, empty; only a little dirt,"bah". Well there must
be others and they maybbe full. So to work we went and for an
hour the dust flew and the loosened rocks rattled dovrn the
steep cliffs and plunged into the deep gulches. Another
large jar was brought to light, also emptfc of rubies and gold
moons and gorgeous trinkets there was not a sign. Besides
two large jars th^re was nothing but a bit of cane plaiting:
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fragments of what must have been very neat work. We left
many of the rooms and recesses unexplored; for we had no
implements for excavating and our fingers were already blistered.
Took some time to make out the plan of the house. A mere wall
is built along the front extending from the outer edge of the
floor almost to the ceiling; for the over-jetting rock forms
an immense natural roof. A squirrel could harly pass along
outside of this wall. A man would stand no chance, whatever,
of getting to the house excepting by the notched rocks that
lead up to the South end of the shelf. At the other end, the
shelf marrows up until it merges into the cliff and there is
only a smooth vertical face. Inside of this main wall, the
rooms are made by walls which extend back to the depths of the
recess. Some of these walls have small doors; some were so
low that the occupants could climb over them. The walls are
about a foot thick and strongly cemented with a very hard
tough mortar; 3 windows and 16 post holes. From below we
had observed with out glasses that in another deep: niche above
was another large house. The roof of this one projected so
that we could see nothing of the cliff above, and we began to
look about for some means of ascent. At the South end of this
shelf we noticed that the cliff above was not so steep and that
little niches for hand and foot hold had been cut. Climbing
cautiously up by these for some 20 or 25 feet A vertical anl
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overhanging cliff to our right - A projecting predipitious
wing of r&ck cutting off out view to the left; we could see
nothing but the valley below, the smooth glistening face of
rock on which hung a fjuge overjetting mass of rock above us,
which obscured the sky. Between this and the ledge that we
were scaling"*must be the niche and the cliff house. We could
already see portions of the front walls, built up from the very
edge of precipice and in a minute we crawled upon the shelf
and stood by the do or-way almost breathless w r ith the diss
height and the thought of the consequence of some ghostly
Montezuman dropping a stone from the wall while we were hanging
between heaven and earth. This niche is about 100 feet long,
running against a wall at the South and merging into the cliff
at the other end as to the one below. The recess in the deepest
parts is 12 to 14 feet beyond the shelf is smooth and gracefully
arched, andawfully impressive In its massiveness. The riiche
is, therefore, unapproachable, except by those little niches.
(The house occupies the whole space excepting the little land¬
ing by the stairway and this has a rude line of stones laid
along the brink), and when one arrives at the top of this he
finds himself looking in the only door-way, which enters through
the front wall and is on the very brink* The front wall does
not reach to the ceiling and is not entire, having never been
completed toward the far end of the shelf. There are 6 apart-
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merits, but the walls are not high, but when we consider the
absolute security of the place and the immense labor of set¬
ting stone and mortar from below, we cannot wonder that they
stopped never so soon. Prom the top of the wall v/e looked out
and down, there was the deep Canoraa Valley. The cliffs abdve
the trees slope below, and the winding thread of the Mancos
in the green strip and the bottom. How secure; how impregnate;
one man with loose rocks at his command could keep off the
world. I had the feeling of being in an eagle/s nest and was
tempted to take wing and fly, but only screamed and then
started at the perplexing echoes. We admired the skill with
which these fortresses were built and the hardihood, and were
amazed that such means of defense could have been conceived
and carried out with the nearest water far below, and only
these great jars to contain a supply. With their fields ^and
flocks and the supply of water within the hands of an enemy
shows something must have perished or have crept down the cliff
to fight or yield to the foe. They are gone now indeed and
have been for centuries and now like vandals we invade their
homes and sack their cities. We, at least, carry off their
earthen jars in triumph and reprimand 7 .them for not having left
us more gold and jewels.
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August 18th.-
M arched 18 miles up the canon. Passed the well-known
two-story house f of a mile above and made a front sketch from
below. Some miles above this there is a group of pretty well
preserved but small houses high in the cliff to the left; count¬
ed nine. Abbut nine miles above camp and f of a mile below
out last canon camp of the preceding trip, I examined a cliff
house that is in about as perfect a state as any below. It is
near the trail and not more than 50 feet above it, but out of
sight. The pottery debris will reveal it easily.
August 19th.-
Marched up the Maneos to the ranch, thence 5 miles Eastward
and camped on Willow Creek. Before leading the canon de Mancos
I climbed to the foot of the lower escarpment to examine the
transition beds. The exposure was not good. All that could
be seen was shale and clay interbedded with sandstone. There
were quantities of crystals of gypsum. The sandstone contained
many fucoids, it is 500 or 600 feet from the Rio to the base
of the escarpment. The lower part is of shale; dark, homogenous.
The Mancos in th„ upper hal£ of its course is a sparkling mountain
stream; in the lower half a sluggish ditch hidden stream, thick
with mud for the greater part of the year. The valley is not
wide; ranging from 40 yards to neariy hal£. a mile of bottom-land.
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The soil is deep and doubtless rich, but densely covered with
a growth of bushes, reeds, grasses and vines. Grease-wood?
and sage flourish on the edges and higher flats. There is
but little grass land. The slopes are rocky and bare except¬
ing a light growth of pinons. In issuing from the canon above
a most gratifying and refreshing landscape come into view. The
grassy valleys and lower mountain"slopes. The aspen and pine
clad hills and the mountains high and bare and blue. 7/e have
left barrens and heat and drowth and desert and by passing
this canon gate-way have entered another world, fresh and
bright and lovely. "I could be merry now" and the four mules
even seemed to feel already the influence of the uplands,and
step with more than usual elasticity.
At Camp we met Jim Hade1iff (of the Mancos Ranch) and on
inquiry we found that Mr. Gar diner had not yet arrived, and
that there was no news from any of the parties in the fibid.
Agreed to exchange 100 pounds of flour for 100 pounds of
potatoes with him.
August 20th.-
This morning a very great surprise was in store for us.
Vie had hardly ridden a mile toward the LaPlata when we were
stopped by a shout from behind, and turning were greeted by
Mr, Henry Gannett; the least expected arrival possible. He
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was closely followed by My Bear Peal ef and Mr. Atkinson.
What could it mean; and Gardner was coming too; both parties
were together and in our district. The whole matter was
explained in a very few words. They had been working in the
Sierra LaSal and when about to approach the Sierra had
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been attacked by Indians; had been under fire for nearly 24
hours; had only escaped with their lives by cutting loose
from their cargo and their instruments and striking out on
their greatest speed for the LaPlata Gamp. Pour indies had
been killed or disable^ and another wounded. Ho member of
the party or united parties - 13 men - had been hurt.
Gannett^ party consisted of Gannett, Peale, Atkinson, M Judge"
Borthington and McCreary. Gardiner T s of Gardiner, Pearson,
Adams, Mills, He1 sj , Medara and Charpi$st.
Two men; Holman and ? had been left at the Supply
Camp on the Dolores. Steve and Bullock were engaged in trans-
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porting supplies to this camp. The Indians are supposed to
belong to the Renegade bands of Southeast Utah.
Got to LaPlata Camp early in the forenoon. Pound our mail
awaiting us. Mr. Aldrich was feeling quite blue. Gap. Moss' 2 -
not yet returned. Mr. Gardner, Adams and Mills soon came in
and we all went into Gamp in the suburbs of Parrott City.
August 21st.-
Busy nearly a^l day getting ready for the next trip. Mr.
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Gardner is making up a party of seven to rescue the boys
at the Supply Camp. He took only part of his provision;
we take the remainder. It is arranged (at my suggestion)
that Gannet go®« with us on our trip to Lone Cone, also that
Mr. Atkinson assist him and that Mr* Pearson take the place
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of Brandegee, who is to remain with Mr. Aldrich, ..accompany
him on a trip to Mancos Canon and do some topography in the
LaPlata Mts.
It Is thought best that the survey of the dangerous area
West of the Dolores be given up for the present, as the risk
seems too great. It is calculated that 15 days will be suf¬
ficient to finish our work in Southwest Colorado.
August 22nd.--
See the outfit off to Mancos Camp and then begin my writing:
First, 2 'ny report to Dr. H. Second, my newspaper correspondence
then my miscellaneous letters. At sundown I was not dortfe, but
it was high time to be off in company with Gardner, Adams and
Mills: I set out. Reached Mancos at about 10 O’clock.
August 23rd.-
Got 100 pounds of potatoes from Jin Radcliff. Wrote to
Jack and. Randegee. Said good-bye to Gardner’s party and lit
out for the Dolores, Reached it early, and marched five miles
up. Camped in the large park at the point where we left the
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Valley in our first Mountain trip* Prom the Mane os Westward
the cret. shales lie up against the divide slope. Hear the
Mancos and for 5 or 6 miles West Ho. 2 extends North of the
trail. There are a number of small buttes. Just left of the
trail Ho. 1 forms the capping of the table-like divide. The
whole series rises gradually toward Lone Gone and the San
Miguel Mts. dip 2° (?). Having ridden about 15 miles; first,
to the West and then North until about ten miles from the
base of Mesa Verde* We found ourselves suddenly upon the
brink of the Canon of the Dolores. The trail approaches it
a little East of the great southern bend. The Canon is about
700 feet deep, escarped by No. 1. Jurrasie .in the slopes and
bottom. The valley and river were a delight to the eye when
we approached it. The bottom is about half a mile wide, level
and parked. One gets occasional glimpses of the bright stream
through the cottonwoods and willows. A family of Utes y)ere
camped by the river at the crossing, but they kept out of sight
They have come over to hunt and fish and gather berries. They
must be short of food as they have been a number of
pine trees of their back, the inner pulpy part is used for food
Berries are very scarce.
August 24th.-
Marched up the Dolores. There was nothing new. Camped 10
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miles up where a large trail comes down a gulch from the West.
The hoys made a station.
August 25th.-
17 miles in a straight line to Lone Cone - Trail uncertain -
indications o* a good days work. Since the base of the Cone
must he accomplished. First 10 miles up the Dolores, canon
narrow and deep; a small terraced area at the forks. At the
forks one stream came in from the northeast, the other from the
Southwest, nearly equal in water, trails each way. Red beds
appear first just before the mouth of Bear Creek, cliffs 900
feet, and between that and the forks do not rise in any place
more than 500 feet above the river. The massive white sandstone
which appears all along just above the red belongs to the
jurassie.(?) It is a remarkable fact that the purple laminated
beds, pecu.liar to the cliffs of San Juan, do not occur here.
Also that the Sanstones of the jurassie make up a greater part
of the section, while below marls predominated. The great
amount of vegetation obscures the geology greatly. Above
the forks the beds rise more rapidly - Say 8 to 10° - and
the walls of the canons are above 1500 feet. The West fork
which seems to carry nearly half of the water rises among the
group of trachytic ridges, often observed just Southeast of
Lone Cone. (See map in sketch book). A small stream comes
down through the mesa from the West and joins the West fork
: so © mo"xl ji-nlxjy /' cinoft a a- too
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about 1 mile above the forks. One trail goes up this and
will probably take us to Lone Cone,or "there-abouts". Look¬
ing up the West fork from its junction with this stream one
can see the ends of the trachyte ridges near two miles up.
Of the sources of the East branch nothing could be seen.
In following the trail we passed abruptly up through the
table and the series of beds and in five miles came out into
beautiful upen meadows, on the floor of No. 1. Camped on the
border of these within 4 miles of Lone Cone.
August 26th.- Camp 60. St. 62 and St. 63.
LONE COKE
Saddled early and rode out with Gannett, Beale,and Chit,
toward. Lone Cone. The Lit. is very fine. The bare summit
rises abruptly from the timbered slopes and is unusually
symmetrical - A triangular pyramid rather than a cone. The
upper part; some 500 feet of the surrahit is of solid-rock
crossed by almost vertical crevices and gulches (after the
manner of trachyte) from which long slides of debris sweep
down to the timber. In rising from the meadows the first
slopes are grassy and parked. The groves of aspens giving
the most charming variety to the scenery. Higher up are the
parked pine forests and about the summits of the ridge, dense
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timber. Small streams of icy water run down the slope on all
sides. Ten acres of this parked upland transplanted into some
Eastern estate would rival the finest product of the horti¬
culturist’s hand. A well beaten Indian trail crosses the
divide just East of the peak. I was stir prised on approaching
the summit from the Southeast to discover a bed or band of
black shale extending across the East face and near the base
of the pyramid, and that the trachyte mesa rested horizontally
upon this, so:
Beneath these shales and
down almost to the timber
there appeared to be another
bed of trachyte, the debris
made this somewhat obscure.
The base of the summit mesa is escarped on the East. The v:all
of trachyte rises from the shale contact vertically for some
40 feet or more. The rock is fine grained and hard. The weather¬
ing is remarkable. The outside and exposed parts break up into
small irregular fragments, while the interior is fctill quite
massive. The relation of tills trachyte to the surrounding masses
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does not appear. The upper part of the sharp peck Southeast i£
of trachyte - No other rock being exposed - The same may be said
of the nearest large group of the San Miguel Mts. Cretaceous
shales appear to underlie the trachyte in all cases and form
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all the lower slopes. It is quite probable that a portion
of the higher outstanding forest covered masses are partly
of trachyte. I shall so indicate it on my map. The sedi¬
mentary beds seem to be but little disturved and I saw no
indication of dykes or fissures or eruption. To the West¬
ward are a number of high buttes or fragments of mesas,
forming the highest portions of the area included by the Do¬
lores. They are nearly all capped with the sandstones of the
Lugn it ic 7 , group. Some small fragments of the coal series re¬
main on the grassy and bush covered summits* The "Lower Es¬
carpment" rocks form the usual cliff, as in the Mesa Verde,
while the 100 to 1500 feet of shales occur in the sropes and
beneath the meadows* To the North is the broad flat depres¬
sion in which the San Miguel flows; the river is canoned.
East are the Uncornpaligre and San Miguel Mts. logty, ragged
and beautiful. The summits are trachtic, the lower parts apw
parently metamorphic. West are the buttes mentioned above
and beyond a series of anticlinal and cynclinal valley set¬
ting off to the North West. The Sierra Abajo and Sal Mts.
are in view.
August 27th.- Stations 64 and 65
Marched 15 miles down fellow Greek, which passes through the
escarped buttes, making quite a Canon. The scenery is very
like that of the Lower Mancos and the Western and Northern
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faces of the Mesa Verde, being of the same strata. All along
the canon - Some 5 miles - There Are bold points - promontories
projecting forward toward the creek - They are near 100 feet
high and the vertical escarpements are often several hundreds.
Gannett desired to make a station on one of the most 'western
of these. It was the intention to make camp low down so as to
favor him. By the middle of the afternoon we came to the end
of irrigation. The water all along had been yellow with alkali
and finally ceased to run. We encamped by a tolerable clear
pool, and in a sage crush flat. Gannett succeded in mailing a
station and on the morning of the
28th. August Sta. 66 and 67
We followed the valley down some three miles and striking
an Indian trail that led toward the South West. The identical
direction we desired to march. We reached the West fork of
Yellow Greek some 3 miles above the forks and passed up between
two high green buttes that stood upon the Mesa-like ridge which
4
Mson the East side of the Dolores. This flat ridge is of ITo. 1
which dip always from the Dolores, giving a dish-like basin, in
which the shales have been preserved. (See map) Some of the
buttes of shale stand well'iupon the divide between Yellow Creek
and the Lower Dolores. From one of these an extended view can
be had of the South West of Colorado. The Mesa Verde, CarrIso,
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Hts. and much of the flat country can be seen. Camped at a
fine spring 3 miles below the divide on the Dolores side.
August 29th.-
Frorn the spring we passed down a canon to the Dolores, there
was no trail and the lower 5 miles were fearful trampling.
Reached the river in safety at two O ! clock. (12 or 14 miles)
Camped inaa fine, meadow. From the spring No. 1 froms the
surface and escarpments and dips sligh-xy toward the South
West. The walls of the Dolores are about 500 feet high.
August 30th.-
Laid over. Cnitty and Pearson went down the Rio to meander.
I climbed the catlfon wall on the Wouth West side. Found the
strata still dipping Wouth West. The Rio is cut for a long
distance along the slope and finally up it and through the
antechinal ride to the North. The canon of course grows deeper
as we descend, and is in many respects a remarkable crevice.
Climbed a tree on the bluffs and got -a fair view of the country
South and West. Between the Dolores and tic Elmo there ia a
slight depression. This depression extends around to the West¬
ward toward the Sierra Abajo. In it are the sources of the
Eoven Weep and others of the Northern branches of McElmo and
San Juan. These cut through!the sxightly higher mesa to the
South. No. 1 cret. forms the surface every where. Came upon
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an ancient burial place# The stones are still standing but
huge trees have grwon up through them# Digging brought to
light only a little charcoal, arrowheads and pottery-ware
were scattered about. A chenve r defrig was built along the
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edge of the bluff# Stone cutting was seen and an axe found.
This seems more modern.
August 31st.-
i
Dolores. Started up the Canon. The trail turned up a
gulch a mile above camp and we followed it up to the head and
were on the flat upland, 2 miles from the Rio. Camped in a
broad meadow near the South bend. In approaching the canon
along the way we were astonished to find the San Juan drainage
extending up to the very banks of the Dolores. The canon is
as muc** as 1000 feet deep bexow. Camp a fey/ miles, and very
narrow. The side gulches on the North are very marked. As
we approach the bend the beds fall off and No. 1 forms the walls.
(As low in one place as 300 feet). Came upon some ruins in
the meadow, and a few cliff houses in the North wall at the
South bend, opposite the mouth of Last canon. There have been
extensive Indian camps in these meadows.
September 1st.-
\
Reached Mane os Camp in good time. Peaie and Gannett went
ahead to catch the out-going mail.
September 2nd.-
Found affairs at the LaPlata Campa about as usual, but no
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word from Jackson. Brandegee and Aldrich have returned from
their Maine os trip. Mr. A. declares himself much pleased.
Brandy made some collections and a number of sketches. Ee
has also done a little work in the LaPlata fits.
September 3rd.-
Spent the day in separating my outfit for the Southern trip
from the part to he taken in by Gannett.
September 4th.- LaPlata mines.
Rode up the LaPlata to examine the mines. A coupe of miles
up came to the Comstock Lode , owned by Jno. Moss, A. K. Flem¬
ming, Henry Lightner. and A. Root.
Discovered in 1874 work commenced in 1875 - ho surface ore.
Strike S.10 E. Dip S.80 E angle 65°. Width of Lode 2j- to 3 ft.
Gauge principally quartz. 7/alls are of perphyritic trachyte.
t
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Extends 600 feet on surface. Two other clams are located -
Clipper and extension. The Lode is in the dyke of trachyte
• in mesaceous sandstone metamor - into quartzite. Dip S. 20930'
Width of dyke is not known on the West side, the quartzite is
■within 6 feet of the Lode.
Slight copper. Ore sulphides. Brittle silver. (See specimen)
Shaft suMk 25 feet. Location some 300 or 400 feet above river.
California Lode is just above and parallel with the Comstock.
LaPlata Mining Company.
Less than a mile above the Comstock and in the Rio bed there
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are placer mines about to be worked under the direction of
Mr. L. F. Fields. A company of S have organized, secured
Capital and are determined to test the washings of this part
of the LaPlata. They have 15 men at work. 220 feet of spruce
(35 in.) is already down, some hundreds of feet more will be
laid before bed rock level is reeehed. Claim 2 miles of bar
mostly below. From this place we went up to Bovens and the
Old man showed us 'his Lodes and placer claims. (For descrip¬
tion see Notes).
September 5th.- Sunday.
Made a section from, camp down a mile. (On the Rio) Made some
photo views also. Moss and a couple of Mining Engineers from
San Francisco came in yesterday evening. Jackson came in all
right today. Camped two or three days, almost in sight of
Gardner f s battle field and among the same rascals that did
the mischief. Heaid nothing of the trouble until reaching Mancos
Camp. His collection of pottery is good. His views he reports
fair, Harry Lee gave me a bowl and spoon of Moquois Manufacture.
I am to send him a copy of Powell ! s Report.
Mr. Barber and Bill Whalen have very nice collections of
arrow-heads etc.
September 6th.-
Weather quite rainy. Mr. A. and I had promised to be at
Bovens early this morning, but we had so much to do in Camp
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that we failed to get off. Later, Brandegee and I rode up
the canon and meandered and top T g f d the valley as far as the
falls. Examined the Geology more carefully, found that nearly
everything was metomorphic. Visible structure of the sediments
ends with Comstock gulch and is observed again near the mouth
of Lewis Creek. This is the mineral belt - or spot - for it
extends only to the divides on either side. There is also a
tongue of mineral bearing rock, mostly metamorphic, extending
to the North West from Boven's gulch. There are doubtless
dykes of trachyte running through the raetamorphic mesa, but
they are not easily traced. The lodes are principally North
and South and East and West.
The river LaPlata is here a fine mountain turnout running
In the bottom of a narrow and steep walled valley. Many
small feeders or side streams come in tumbling down the steep
slopes,forming almost continuous cascades. The slopes have
aspens and rocks with occasional fine parks on the flatter
parts by the Rio.
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JUJ ADVENTURE WITH THE INDIANS.
August 4th and 5th, 1875,
From My Field notebook
(JljL. V* ^ A Kj V '
August 4th. Moved 14 miles down the San Juan Talley,
in southwestern Colorado, within a few miles of our western
line (109° 30* )♦ Passed by the mouth of the Montezuma, a deep
valley with a dry bed but bordered by many cottonwoods. Met an
outfit of Indians consisting of four men and five squaws. The
two younger fellows were impudent, devil-may-care fellows. The
two older were quieter and more polite. The oldest was a tall,
slender man of say 50 years with a sober, composed countenance
and a mouth of un-godly width. He shook hands and called me
"Ml Amigo"(my friend) said also that they were Navahoes. They
drove some 20 or 30 sheep and goats and indicated that their
"wickiup" would be made at the Junction of Montezuma and the
San Juan. One of the Indians who rode by my side asked to
see my rifle, which, as usual, was slung across the fron^b of
my saddle, but I declined the favor as it might have been a
difficult matter to recover it in case he should be triclcy.
My outfit soon came up and I took them to camp four miles be¬
low the mouth of the Montezuma. Chittenden ( George B),
topographer, had crossed at the wagon trail ford and was making
a station south of San Juan river. The Indians advised him
to "piqua" (get out) up the river, but Chittenden didn't "pike".
The night following was destined to be one of unusual excitement
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for our party* I was awakened at ten or eleven o*cloek by
a confusion of sounds and the excited inquiries by Chittenden
and others as to who could be yelling on the south side of
the river. At the same moment my ear caught the hoarse yells
of some one apparently in the greatest excitement. I was on
my feet in an instant and shouted in reply. It was Tom
•r
Cooper, our chief packer. He was yelling, talking and swear¬
ing in the most desperate manner, and I could only make out
that something very disastrous was happening and that our
help was instantly needed. We seized our rifles and hurried
out to meet him in the dark woods bordering the river, and
soon learned that we had possibly escaped what might have been
a serious disaster. Early in the night as Tom happened to
be lying awake in his tent he noticed that there was some
rather unusual disturbance among the herd and presently that
the bell began to tinkle as if the bell-horse were trotting or
running. The herd was evidently moving down the valley along
the river bank. He was up in an instant and after them.
Steadily they moved away and he followed but found it very
difficult to get closer to them. He suspected nothing wrong
only that they had been frightened by a coyote or some other
wild beast, in which case they would certainly soon stop. Al¬
ready he had chased them a mile or more over gorges rocks,
and through weeds and brush and it seemed they would never
stop. The perspiration was making him blind and his wind
was nearly gone. Suddenly all sounds ceased, the bell was
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silent. He could only keep on toward where he heard the
sound last, and to his amazement he discovered the herd just
ahead of him rounded up in a clcUse hunch standing quite still
in the darkness. He passed around them thus to turn them
hack toward camp in case they should he frightened. He came
within a few feet of the hunch, and approaching more closely
was about to place his hand on the face of the old bald-faced
hell-horse when the horse shook his head and there was no hell,
and it suddenly dawned upon Tom that these strange movements
of the animals were not made of their own will hut under the
guidance of the hand of Indian desperadoes. The explanation
came very suddenly. A flash of lightning revealed the crouch¬
ing forms of two savages, almost within the reach of his foot,
engaged in cutting the hohhles from the two hohhled mules. They
caught sight of him at the same moment and were so struck with
amazement that they thought only of flight. Y/ith a hound they
sprang upon their ponies and were off like a shot. Tom, doubt¬
less somewhat stunned, did not take to flight hut jumping on the
nearest mule started the herd toward camp uttering the most fear¬
ful yells at every jump. The red-skins, as they flew up the
valley and over the rolling hills must have felt their blood
freeze at the very sound. Certainly they did not stop until a
long distance intervened between them and the scene of their
fright. In half an hour our animals were all safe in camp. We
thanked Tom for having saved us from a great disaster - that of
being set afoot in a practical desert 200 miles from the nearest
habitation.
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August 5th• . On the following morning we rode out to
the scene of the mutual surprise party and there found the tell
which had been cut from the horse*s neck, a pair of hobbles the
removing of which, just completed, had caused the delay that
had saved us, and also a pair of fine rawhide lariats dropped
by the thieves in their sudden retreat. (Photograph of sections
of the lariats are included herewith.)
All about were tracks showing what had gone on. We
then followed the trail of their animals back up the valley and
discovered that these two men had walked all the way from their
camp, four miles above, Indian file and that their ponies had
been brought around to them through a circuitous trail in the
hills. Pom and John rode up the valley and found their camp
soon after while Chittenden and I climbed the mesa above to do
our day’s surveying. The boys were determined to raise quite
a noise in the wickiup of the supposed guilty redmen but felt
inclined to give up the idea when they discovered instead of the
four men seen yesterday, eight ficrce-looking devils croiiching
over their pipes and looking forbidding enough in their sullen,
stoic mood. They were neither communicative nor polite, and
the two boys came away impressed with the notion, as Tom put it,
n that the savages were determined to give us another deal yet. n
The audacity of the thieving pirates went ahead of anything we
had ever heard of. lot only did they stay all night in the
camp to which we had tracked them but at noon rode boldly down
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to our camp, dismounted and set themselves in a half-circle
in the middle of our camp and proceeded to scrutinize every
object in the outfit, and to beg this and pretend to swap for
that. One old scamp had the audacity to nudge me with his
elbow and order me to bring a pail of agua (water) which I did
not do. We treated them as coolly as possible, kept our rifles
within reach, and held such manner of powwow as we could. Trad¬
ed some matches for some arrows and gave them some bread to eat.
It appears that they were really trying to find their fine
lariats, which we had hidden, and possibly to claim them. We
watches them so closely that they failed to steal anything and
saw them depart at last with feelings of relief. These fellows
came more nearly up to my notion of what a bad Indian should
look like than any that I had ever seen.
We mounted double guard for the night, determined to
protect ourselves to the utmost. I think I recognized two of
the Indians as the same we met on the 25th of July between the
Mancos camp and La Plata mines. That party of four has doubt-
less been following us since that time. They are cowardly
scamps who would not dare to steal our stock when they could
be found out, or harm us personally if it were likely to endanger
themselves. They know that we sleep and eat and work by our
needle guns and move with great caution in consequence.
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PROFESSOR GARDNER'S MISFORTUNE
Professor Gardner T s party, which was surveying the
territory North of us at about the same date as that of our
adventure, was not so fortunate. A hand of Indians attacked
his camp and kept them under long range gun fire for two or
three days. The party finally managed in the night to get
away on their saddle horses taking such things as could he
carried. As my party ascended one of the valleys on our
way to the East a few days later, I was greatly surprised to
see a horseman appear over the summit of one of the mountain
ridges. He was followed hy another and then another and I
finally recognized the leader as my friend Dr. Peele, geologist
of the Gardner party. He was followed hy the party and they
• \ • j
were glad indeed to Join me and appease their hunger which was
fast- tending toward a state of starvation. We were very glad
to get out of the Indian country and return home. We enjoyed
speculation, however, as to the possible enjoyment of the
Indians in utilizing the feather lined sleeping pouch which
Professor Gardner carried with him on his mountain expeditions.
EXTRACTS FROM THE 1875 REPORT
NINTH ANNUAL REPORT OF THE UNITED STATES
GEOLOGICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES ,1875.
By F. V. HAYDEN
"The geological examination by Mr. Holmes was fruitful of
most important results. Ills investigations were extended from
Colorado into portions of Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico.
In 1874, Dr. Endlich examined the district lying to the east,
so that Mr. H-olmes took up the work where he left off at 108° west
longitude, and carried it without difficulty to 109° 30 1 • In
general, the geology is not greatly complicated. The section of
stratified rocks exposed extends from the Tertiary to the Carboni¬
ferous, including about 2,000 feet of the former and slight ex¬
posures merely of the latter. About 9,000 feet of measures pass¬
ed under examination. Of other rooks, there are--four small
areas of trachyte, one limited area of metamorphie rock-,- and a
few unimportant dikes." (page 6)
"Of the 6,000 square miles, 5,700 are of sedimentary rocks:
230 of these in the southeast are of the so-called Lignitic; 800,
chiefly included in the Mesa Verde, belong to the Upper Cretaceous;
and the remaining 4,900 to the Lower Cretaceous, and such of the
earlier periods as are exposed in the crooked and narrow valleys,
and about the trachytic groups. In the Cretaceous series, Mr.
Holmes examined a number of seams of workable coal, procured fossils
in ten distinct horizons, and expects to be able to identify these
horizons with such corresponding ones as exist on the Atlantic slope.
The section obtained is the most complete and. satisfactory made in
Colorado up to this time. The trachyte areas include about 250
square miles, and seem to present many remarkable and interesting
features.
V
The prehistoric remains in the canons and lowlands of the
Southwest are of great interest, and the study of them by Mr. Holmes
was as complete as possible under the circumstances. Many cliff-
houses, built in extraordinary situations, and still in a fine
state of preservation, were examined. A good collection of pottery,
stone implements, the latter including arrow-heads, axes, and ear
ornaments, etc., some pieces of rope, fragments of matting, water-
t jars, corn, and beans, and other articles were exhumed from the
debris of a house. Many graves were found, and a number of skulls
and skeletons that may fairly be attributed to the prehistoric in¬
habitants were added to the collection." (page 7-8)
I wrote you from this camp 25 I
u ay a ago. We were then about to
start on our third trip, to the west ami
southwest. We pass d along the low
depression nouh of the Mesa Verdi to !
Ute peats, the northeastern summit of
toe Late group. These mountains are
Within ten to fifteen miles of the Utah
line, and almost midway between our
north and south lines. The drainage
is entirely to the San Juan. The rock
is Trachyte. They are a mass of tra-
cnyte pushed through and piled up
upon a cretaceous floor. No. 1 ou the
north and west, Nos. 2 and 3 on the
east and south From this group to
our western line we encountered a
most detestable country to work ; caxl-
oueh bare and waterless. No. 1 criua-
ceous forms the mesa caps. The pur-
assic shales and upper red beds, the j
slopes ot the canons. We must work '
a strip forty mnes wide and nearly one
hunured mihs long, in which there is i
no single point to relieve the cornpli
Gated monotony of this cafioned pla¬
teau. The little spring of Ute peak
was nearly dry when we left it, and
we were not aware of the existence of
water in all ihis area, excepting along
the course of the dan ,juau, which
flows to the westward just north of
the line between Arizona and Utah.
Mr. Aldrich climbed Ute peak with
us and then returned. Jackson and
his outfit were traveling with us.
We left Ute peak expecting to inarch
down the McElmo to the San Juan, a
distance of Ihiity-tive miles. Fortu¬
nately water was found ou the Haven
Weep, a branch of the McElmo, and i
we were able to do two good days”
work in the middle western part of out-
country.
un the 5th we reached the San Juan
some ten miles on in Utah. Jackson
left us and pushed on toward the New-
quois country. We made one more
march down the river, and encamped
within four or five miles of our west¬
ern 1 ne. That night about 10 o’clock
our stock was stolen. Turn Cooper
heard them moving and supposing a
wolf had scared them went out
to see that they were in
good shape. To his surprise they
were moving rapidly off, and follow¬
ing the sound of the hell, he gave
them chase. For two mdes he toile j
on, and smi the bell kept ahead. It
was a stormy night, and as dark as
pitch, and the country was covered
with trees ana bushes, and cutup bv
deep guihes. Finally toe bell stopped,
a id aii was still. He began to sus¬
pect that there were Indians at the
noit'om of it, aud pushed forward to-
. ward wnere the last soum.s were
heard, buddeuly he came upon the
mules, all buncoed up and standing
stiii. He passed around them, auu
was about to put his hand upon the
bell horse lo caress him, when he dis¬
covered that the bed was gone, aud at
the same moment a flash of lightning
disclosed an Ionian, almost within ins
reach, engaged in cutting the hobols
irom the leetof Old Joe, while another
Indian stoud near by. They caught
sight of Tom at the same moment,
and, obeying their cowardly iostme s,
spiang instantly upon tht-ir ponitS
and w ere off like a flash. Tom caught
a mule, aud mounting him, started
the herd for camp at full speed, and at
every jump sent forth sucii a yeli as
must have made the long hair of the
retreating red devils fairly stand on
end. In an nour the animals were aii
safely iu camp, but seemed to miss the
bell, and were quitt frightened and
uneasy. Early in the morning we
rode out to the point of recapture, auu
found our beM aud hobbles^and better j
than all, two good Indian lanattes, '
leit by the thieves iu their hasty re- j
treat. There we keep as trophies.
Next day we caugut the thieves in
their camp—actually tracked them
IfoureT Tuey were eight as fierce aud
develish redskins as I have ever met.
'tfffey were impudent aud defiant, aud
we fully expected to have more trou-
ble. But for some reason we have es¬
caped them. We have watched con-
stantly aud carefully ever siuce, but
at the same time have not 1 st an
J hour’s work. We crossed the San Juan
into Arizona, and worked for a week
among the thieving Navajoes ; found
water at the oase of the Sierra Cnrriss,
and finished aii of the southwest in
good time. The dry country, the heat
and the poor water, have been very
bard on our stock, but a slow march
on the return route has revived them,
and now all are iu excellent shape.
The Sierra Carriso are in Arizona,
and geologically correspond very
closely to the Late Mountains (Ute).
The floor of the country is mostly of
Jurassie rock, however. The No. 1
mesas stand back at a respectable dist
ance. The Bio San Juan passes iu
our Territory from the lower tertiary
down through the Cretaceous aud Jur¬
assie into the Red beds. I shall have
no trouble in mapping and describing
the geology of the San Juan and its
drainage. I fear that the Dolans will
be almost as simple. Dr Peale and I
unite our forces from this on. We
shall not be idle.
On our return from the southwest I
visited a number of ruins, and have
Uj
/S75'
The Wyoming Tribune” January 20,1915.
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Tom
by
Cooper posed as "The Prospector"
W. H. Holmes, Clear Creek, 1873.
Tom was our Chief Packer and a splendid man. Was
with us several years. He saved my entire herd of
animals in 1875. They were stolen in the night and he
followed, overtook them and appeared as the; Indians were
cutting the hobbles. He raised such a yell that the
Indians jumped on their ponies and fled.
a.
Tom became Sheriff of Cheyenne later. See eulogies
printed in Cheyenne, filed in my 1878 notes.
7 yX, 32,3 (.c
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'
THOMAS COOPER
The familia r form and kindly face of Station Master Tom Ooopei
is sadly missed from the Union Pacific; depot at Cheyenne.
In his death Wyoming' Joses a pioneer who fearlessly led the ad¬
vance of settlement and safety. A boy veteran of the Civil war, Tom
Cooper came to Cheyenne to open the way to settlement to guard and
protect the traffic of the railway in whose service he has just died
He saw Wyoming transformed from the wild range of the buffalo
and the antelope to the paradise of domestic livestock. He has lived
here to see its widespreading plains and fertile valleys rapidly pass¬
ing undr the plow of agriculture. In all these changes; he had the
satisfaction of knowing that he had rendered invaluable service in
preparing the way.
It,is said that Cooper was wonderfully expert, in finding his way
pver the trackless range. In these first daysi of the frontier there
were few roads and the landmarks were uncertain and misleading
.with a weary sameness. Few men could keep in, mind the endless
panorama of canyons and streams; of buttes and mountains that
made up the dreary landscape for hundreds of miles.
Ct/rv
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Tom Cooper, however, had the happy faculty of fixing them all
In liis mind; and of mapping his course unerringly by them to any
point to which he desired to go. He could discern and recognize the
identity of mountains when others would be bewildered and lose the
trail.
For this reason and for his cool judgment and rugged honesty he
was a most, trusted scout in the early days when this country was
being cleared of murderous red men and outlaw whites. Tom Cooper
was a most conspicuous leader of a class of brave men who might
well be designated “Heralds of the Homeseeker.” Men who willingly
risked their lives and sacrificed their comfort to prepare the land
for habitation and for peaceful industry. j
These men accomplished, their hazardous mission and are now
rapidly passing over the divide to the great beyond. They were heroes
In every sense of that word, for they renderd brave service for the
future commonwealth that their deeds made possible. The thousands
bnppy homes in the great state of Wyoming would not exist today
kit for the pioneering of such dauntless leaders as Tom Cooper.
'Amidst hardships and arduous toil they cleared the wild west of the
lumberers of the ground.
No man bad a wider vision of A¥yoming‘s future than Thomas
Dooper, who had helped to fit it for its development. He loved his
State, lie loved his fellowmen and was ever ready with deeds of kind-
icss and charity wherever an opportunity offered.
There ought to be a shaft erected upon the sta.tehou.se grounds
lo the memory of suck men as Thomas Cooper, who so bravely pip
fteered and paved the way for Wyoming® -settlement.
hAWt,
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i. f^ iy
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condition, caused Ms physicians to de
. spair of' ever saving- him.
Was A New Yorker,
Thomas Cooper was 'born in. New
York City on November 15, 1850. His
mother died when lie was but 3 years
of age. A few years later, his father
again married and moved with the
family to Monmouth, Illinois. Home
life, under the guidance of a step¬
mother, was not pleasant for the
I lad. At the age. of 0. lie left home.
BhinV -hu-go and vveJff developed for
W. l IHUli " 1 'I i ,v\,
his youth, he managed to secure work
in a stone quarry not far distant,
where he performed a man’s labor for
a number of years.
At the outbreak of the Civil War,
when Tom was but 13 years of age,
he enlisted in the Seventeenth Illin¬
ois Cavalry and went to war, seeing,
service in Missouri. He was soon ap¬
pointed an orderly to Major Hillard,
an old friend of the family.
At the close of the war he was mus¬
tered out of service at Jefferson Bar¬
racks to become a courier, and for
some time he engaged in carrying,
messages from Missouri river points
over the old 'Smoky Hill Trail to Fort
Larned and other Kansas posts.
In 1867, he came- to Jujestmrg and
from this place: came with the Union
Pacific construction party into Chey¬
enne.
Remained in the West.
From that time on, his life was'
spent in the west. He joined the Un¬
ited States Geological Survey under
Prof. Hayden and saw five years of
service surveying the western states. !
At 'this time, the Indian was lord and
master of the west. During s a sur¬
veying expedition, it befell the lot of
“Colonel Tom” ^o save, single-handed,
a large amount of government prop¬
erty from the Indians. In recognition
of his bravery,, the United States
Geological Survey presented him with
a beautiful revolver, which he kept
until his death.
Following his five years’ service
with the geological expedition, he
drove a stage for Luke Voorhees, who
at present is receiver at the- United
States land office in'Cheyenne. This
stage was driven on the old Black
Hills-Deadwood route and into Saute
1
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TOji COOPS
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ill Sr V Aft -ffy rip-j
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fttA lL*Jk—
ft P'ti- lA
On Custer Battlefield.
He was with the Crook expedition
in ’76, joining the party as a guide,
in company with Big Patti ste. Ten
days following the'Custer battle with
the Indians, in which Custer was
killed, “Colonel Tom” and party rode
upon the blood-stained battlefield.
While on this expedition he partici¬
pated in the battle of Little Rosebud
against the Sioux Indians near the
Montana line in northern Wyoming. It
was in this battle that the great Sioux
■Chief, American Horse, was ■cap¬
tured.
The Leadville mining excitement
later directed his attention into Lead-
J ville, Colo., where he engaged as
stage driver into the Leadville camp.
It was while he was driving into,
Leadville that he met With an acci-
dent which resulted in »ls being
slightly crippled for life. The harness
of the leaders broke as the stage was
on a down-grade. He was pulled from
his seat at the top of the stage, fall¬
ing beneath the wheels. His right foot
was crushed under the weight of the
stage. For months he lay ill, and
many times his life whs dispaired of.
Eventually, he recovered, but he : al¬
ways afterward walked with a limp.
Back to Cheyenne.
In 1884, he returned to Cheyenne.
1 For several years thereafter, he acted
as scout and guide to mfany hunting
expeditions. During one party with
John Lee Carroll, of Baltimore,
expedition under “Colonel Ti
guidance, the party wintered in J
son’s Hole in the winter of 1890.
Norton Downs, now of Germane
Philadelphia, was the physician of
party; The physician , contra
diphtheria, and became dangero
ill. The announcement was made
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he 'could not live unless professional-
attention could be given him.
Taking' his own life in his hands,
Colonel Tom”, with the chances ten
to one against him, set out with the
sick man to cross the mountains, cov¬
ered with ten feet of snow.
Trip Is Successful.
After a perilous journey, “Colonel
Tom” brought his charge into Old
Eagle Rock, a small settlement,
which, later came to be Idaho Falls.
The message was dispatched to the ,
young doctor’s father in Philadelphia, 1
who arrived in time to save his son's
lif |- In recognition of this service,!
the doctor, presented his benefactor
with a handsome gold watch, on the
back of which is engraved a fitting
tribute to the man who risked his
life that his friepd might live. This
watch has been handed down to James
F. Cooper, the son.
Guard for U. P.
The pioneer guide entered the ser¬
vice of the Union Pacific again in
1887. His first duties with the Union
Pacific was to travel as guard for
treasure trains, which at that time
were heavily laden with bullion. When
not employed as guard, he would act
as depot master. Eventually he en¬
tered the Union Pacific service per¬
manently as depot master. In this
capacity he won the respect and ad¬
miration of all. High officials of the
Union Pacific . know Tom Cooper,
know of his honesty, Jiis loyalty and
his constant devotion to others £and
that at no time has he spared Kim-
self when the happiness and comforts
of others were at stake.
The deceased 1 was married in Den¬
ver in 1875 to Miss Mary Flannigan,
whom a year before he had met in
Lai amie. They went to Denver for
the ceremony, returning to Cheyenne,
soon after to make their home. To
this union, one son was born, 3-81
years ago. The son and the wife sur-1
vive him. The only other immediate
relative is a brother, William Cooper,
Iwho is 66 years old and lives in 11-
1 'is; : >'
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Dr. J. B. Reeside, Jr., of the Geological Sur¬
vey came in today to say that he was instructed to take
care of the large box of old Hayden Survey field sketches
mostly the work of Elliott and Holmes in 1867, 68, 69,
70 and 71. He said that the Survey was prepared to care
for all such material, and directions were immediately
given to have the box turned over to the Survey.
Dr. Reeside stated that the present Survey had
recently extended its work over the area surveyed and
mapped by me and George Chittendon sixty years ago, and
that in preparing the results in the Survey office they
came across the Hayden Reports and at once threw away
their work finding our work of 1875 superior.
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10830
MAP
of. SOUTH WEST COLORADO t vitTirparfe of UTAH, NEW MEXICO and ARIZONA.
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December life 19SC5
IHJ 3^ IS 'V' JE K K 'IFil AMB 1P IE IV W S Y IH’A Ks* it A A.VMI,
WASHINiETWKs Da C?o
>
FERDINAND VANDEVEER HAYDEN (1829-1887)
American Geologist, was born at Westfield, Mass., on September 7, 1829. He graduated from Oberlin
college in 1850 and from the Albany medical college in 1853 where he attracted the attention of Prof.
James Hall, State geologist of New York, through whose influence he was induced to join F. B. Meek
in an exploration of the “Bad Lands" of Dakota to make collections of fossils. The nex-t two years
were spent in a similar exploration of the Upper Missouri under the auspices of the American Fur Co.,
resulting in the discovery of an important collection of fossils, which was afterwards divided between
the academies of science of St. Louis and Philadelphia. In 1856 Lieut. G. K. Warren appointed him
one of his assistants in the exploration of the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers and of the Black Hills.
In 1859 he was attached to Capt. W. F. Raynolds' expedition to the upper tributaries of the Yellow¬
stone as surgeon and naturalist, one result of which was his Geological Report of the Explorations of the
Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers in 1859-60 (1869).
During the Civil War Dr. Hayden was actively engaged as surgeon in the Federal army from 1862
to 1865, resigning to become professor of mineralogy and geology in the University of Pennsylvania,
which position he retained until 1872. In 1867 he was appointed geologist in charge of the U. S.
geological and geographical survey of the territories and from his twelve years of labor there resulted
a most valuable series of volumes in all branches of natural history and economic science; and he
issued in 1877 his Geological and Geographical Atlas of Colorado. Upon the reorganization and estab¬
lishment of the U. S. Geological Survey in 1879, he acted for seven years as one of the geologists. He
died at Philadelphia on December 22, 1887.
His other publications were: Sun Pictures of Rocky Mountain Scenery (1870), The Yellowstone
National Park , illustrated by reproductions of water color sketches by Thomas Moran (1876), The
Great West; its Attractions and Resources (1880), With F. B. Meek he wrote ( Smithsonian Contribu¬
tions, vol. 14, Art. 4) “Paleontology of the Upper Missouri, pt. I, Invertebrate." His valuable notes
on Indian dialects are in The Transactions of the American Philosophical Society (1862), in the American
Journal of Science (1862) and in The Proceedings of the American Philosophical Society (1869). With
A. R. C. Selwyn he wrote North America (1883) for Stanford's Compendium.
Obituary notice of Dr. Hayden read before the American Philosophical Society by Prof. J. P. Leslie.
He represented in science the curiosity, the intelligence, the energy, the practical business talent
of the western people. In a few years they came to adopt him as their favorite son of science. He
exactly met the wants of the Great West. There was a vehemence and a sort of wildness in his nature
as a man which won him success, cooperation, and enthusiastic reputation among all classes, high and
low, wherever he went. * * * He popularized geology on the grandest scale in the new States and
Territories. He easily and naturally affiliated with every kind of explorer, acting with such friendli¬
ness and manly justice toward those whom he employed as his co-workers that they pursued with
hearty zeal the development of his plans.
I think that no one who knows the history of geology in the United States can fail to recognize the
fact that the present magnificent United States Geological Survey * * * is the legitimate child of
Doctor Hayden's Territorial Surveys.
—Extracts from Encyclopaedia^ Brittanica, New International
Encyclopaedia, and Merrill's Contributions to the History of
American Geology.
TABLET HONORS
Pioneering Work of U. S.
Geologists Honored in the
Star Building.
The wording appearing on the
bronze tablet unveiled yesterday
in memory of the original United
States Geological Survey party is
as follows:
TJ S Cj s
THE GEOLOGICAL SURVEY
OF THE TERRITORIES
FERDINAND V. HAYDEN,
GEOLOGIST IN CHARGE,
WAS ESTABLISHED BY AN
ACT OF CONGRESS
APPROVED MARCH 3, 1867.
By this act and subsequent ap¬
propriations rooms were secured
in the upper floors of the old
brick building on this site, subse¬
quently purchased by The Star
Co. Scientists were employed,
explorations, geologic, topographic
and photographic work begun by
many field parties.
Later the survey offices were
moved to the upper floors of 509
Seventh street, where final com¬
pilation of all field work was
made.
The scenic beauty, the topo¬
graphic and economic potentiali¬
ties of parts of the Rocky Moun¬
tains and the Yellowstone were
surveyed, photographed and pub¬
lications issued, resulting in com¬
pletion of the Colorado Atlas.
Many natural park's were discov¬
ered and their preservation rec¬
ommended to the Congress of the
United States.
This memorial was erected by
the surviving members of the
Hayden Survey—1930.
Pioneering efforts of the United States
Geological Survey under the leadership
of the late Ferdinand V. Hayden, first
United States geologist in charge, which
<£to/C4--tr*T—
SURVEY PIONEERS
Pioneers of the United States Geolog¬
ical Survey, under leadership of the late
Ferdinand V. Hayden, .were honored by
the unveiling of a bronze plaque yes¬
terday afternoon in The Star Building.
These photographs are of three of the
survivors of the original party. Upper
left is Dr. William H. Holmes, director
of the National Gallery of Art; upper
right, Frederick D. Owen, who unveiled
the tablet, and below, William H. Jacb-
son, who presided at the ceremony.
at the site ol the first activities of the
Geological Survey,” Mr. Hardy con¬
cluded, ‘‘is a worthy memorial to its
founder, Dr. Ferdinand V. Hayden, and
does credit to his associates of those
early days, several of whom are pres¬
ent today.”
Later surveys, which carried on the
work of the Hayden party, must ac¬
knowledge a great debt 'to the original
party, which laid the foundation for
all later work of this character, it was
stated by Dr. Edgar L. Hewett, president
of the Archaeological Institute of
America.
den survey rank high in the world of
Mr. Jackson, who presided, was
photographer of the party and brought
back the first photographs of many of
the areas visited, including the Yellow¬
stone National Park area. He now is a
member of the Explorers’ Club of New
York and is engaged in illustrating a
story soon to be published of the old
Oregon Trail, many of his original
photographs being used. While on the
survey he used the old “wet plate”
method Of photography, his collection of
plates, chemicals and field dark room
being transported on mules. Each time
a picture was made it became necessary
to set up the dark room, unload and
mix chemicals and plates and repack
the train, he recalled. Despite these
hardships his photographs rank among
the finest of the kind ever made.
Other Survivors of Party.
Survivors of the Hayden survey, in
addition to Dr. Holmes, Mr. Jackson and
Mr. Owen, are George B. Chittenden,
topographer; Ernest Ingersol, zoologist,
and S. B. Ladd, topographer.
The survey staff of Dr. Hayden’s
pioneering days was composed of Rob¬
ert Adams, jr., assistant quartermaster;
J. H. Batty, naturalist; G. R. Bechler,
topographer; E. L. Berthoud, civil en- :
gineer; Eli Brooks, civil engineer; Lieut.
W. L. Carpenter, naturalist; George B.
Chittenden, topographer; Prof. E. D. ;
Cope, naturalist; Dr. Elliott Coues,
ornithologist; John M. Coulter, botanist; ■
Dr. F. M.' Endlich, geologist; Henry M.
Gannett, topographer; James T. Gard- j
ner, geographer; William S. Holman,
jr., general assistant;. William H. Holmes, i
artist and assistant geologist; Ernest
Ingersoll, zoologist; William H. Jackson,
photographer; S. B. Ladd, topographer;
Prof. Joseph Leidy, naturalist; Leo
Lesqueroux, paleontologist; E. T. Luce,
general assistant; A. R. Marvine, geolo¬
gist; F. B. Meek, paleontologist; S. H.
Nealy, general assistant; Prof. J. S. 1
Newberry, geologist; F. D. Owen, assist¬
ant topographer and artist; A. S. Pack¬
ard, naturalist; A. C. Peale, geologist;
- Pearson, financial clerk; T. C.
Porter, botanist; Franklin Rhoda, as¬
sistant topographer; S. I. Smith, natu¬
ralist; James Stevenson, administrative
chief; Henry W. Steckle, assistant to¬
pographer; W. Bush Taggart, assistant
geologist; Prof. Cyrus Thomas, publica¬
tions; H. E. Verrill, zoologist; C. A.
White, paleontologist; Prof. W. D. Whit¬
ney, philologist, and A. D. Wilson, to¬
pographer. For field work, guides, hunt-
'
resulted in many scientific developments
of importance in the history of the
Nation, were memorialized by the un¬
veiling yesterday evening in The Star
Building of a bronze tablet to be erested
on behalf of the surviving members of
the original Hayden survey.
The labors of Dr. Hayden and the
members of his original survey are
credited with a large part in the open¬
ing of the western United States to
development, for the fostering of studies
along the same and allied lines by later
Federal agencies and for the accumula¬
tion of scientific knowledge of the
beauties and resources of what then
was a little known portion of the United
States. The establishment of our
present national park system may be
attributed to the efforts of the* Hayden
party, it was pointed out by speakers at
yesterday’s ceremonies.
The tablet unveiled yesterday will be
permanently installed in the main office
of The Evening Star on the ground floor,
the site of the old brick building in
which the Geological' Survey had its
first headquarters and in which the
results of its early field studies were
made available to the world.
Survivors Are Present.
In opening the meeting William H.
Jackson, one of the six surviving mem¬
bers of the Hayden survey, who pre¬
sided, presented the plaque to the people
of the National Capital and of the Na¬
tion. The tablet was unveiled by Fred¬
erick D. Owen, assistant topographer
and artist on the original survey, who
retired three years ago from the Office
of Public Buildings and Public Parks of
the National Capital.
In the principal address of the oc¬
casion, Representative Guy V. Hardy of
Colorado, in whose State much of the
important work of the Hayden survey
was carried on, paid high tribute to the
ability and energy of the scientists
composing that party, many of whom
since have gained international fame
in scientific circles.
“It is well,” Mr. Hardy said, “that we
turn back the pages of history on occa¬
sion and pay honor to those leaders of
our national movements who have gone
before. It is done frequently at pa¬
triotic celebrations where war heroes
and wartime .statesmen are honored. It
is done all too frequently for men who
have led the way in discovery, and in
science and in economic development in
times of peace.”
First Salary $2,000.
The first appropriation for a geologi¬
cal survey, Mr. Hardy said, was made
in 1867, and amounted to but $5,000.
Dr. Hayden was put in charge, with a
salary of $2,000. The first year was
devoted to a geological survey of Ne¬
braska. In 1868 Dr. Hayden made
geological explorations in Wyoming.
“In 1869,” Mr. Hardy continued, “Dr.
Hayden made investigations in Colorado
and New Mexico, and laid the founda¬
tion for future work and study. Before
the days of railroads or highways he
covered much of the State. Starting
at Cheyenne, he came down via Fort
Collins, Boulder, Denver, Colorado City,
over to Canon City, up the Arkansas
River to about Coaldale, over Hayden
Pass into the San Luis Valley, on to
Trinidad, though Raton to Santa Fe,
N. ! Mex. He came back through the
San Luis Valley, out over Poncha Pass,
though Salida, Leadville, South Park,
to Denver. That would be a notable
tour to make in this day of modem
conveyance and good roads. It must
have been a stupendous task in 1869.”
Dr. Hayden continued his work in
the Rocky Mountain States about 10
years in all, Mr. Hardy said, and ap¬
propriations were increased to $75,000
annually. The party made geological
reports and topographic maps, lo¬
cated coal fields and mineral resources,
viewed and surveyed the section now
known as Yellowstone National Park.
Not content with his scientific
achievements, Mr. Hardy continued, Dr.
Hayden became a publicist of first rank
in his efforts to give the findings of
his party to the world. He developed
many reports and maps which were
printed by the Government. He wrote
many magazine articles and booklets.
His studies were published in the lead¬
ing publications of America and re¬
published in Europe. This work, the
Colorado Representative said, helped to
bring the romance of the rich re¬
sources of the new West to the knowl¬
edge of the world.
“The dedication of this plaque, here
Opened Area to World.
“The Hayden survey,” he said, “began
the work of opening to the world por¬
tions of this country how so rich in
resources of all kinds. I am delighted
to see the establishment of this tablet
commemorating the tremendous work
they did and honoring thepi for the
great vision they must have had to
carry through to the conclusions they
reached.”
Mr. Jackson read several letters from
invited guests who were unable to at¬
tend, among them one from Senator
Lawrence C. Phipps of Colorado, who
wrote:
“Dr. P. V. Hayden, pioneer American
geologist, is entitled to the Nation’s
honor because of his services in con¬
nection with the establishment of this
valuable branch of the Federal Govern¬
ment. Dr. Hayden’s services were of
substantial aid in developing the West
and in interesting the entire country
in Western possibilities.”
The ceremonies were held in rooms
on the second floor of The Star Build¬
ing, corresponding in location to those
occupied by the Hayden survey in the
building which stood on the same site.
Dr. Holmes Absent.
Dr. William H. Holmes, director of
the National Gallery of Art, artist,
geologist and archeologist, one of the
noted surviving members of the survey,
who had been scheduled to preside, was
unable to be present. He joined the
original Hayden party in 1872 as an
artist and assistant geologist, later be¬
coming geologist. His work with the
party began a distinguished scientific
and artistic career, leading to his ap¬
pointment as head curator of the Na¬
tional Museum in charge of the depart¬
ments of ethnology, archeology, tech¬
nology, history and art, from 1910 to
1920; chief of the Bureau of American
Ethnology and curator of the National
Gallery. He produced upward of 200
official scientific publications and his
paintings of scenes visited by the Hay-
- : ---
ers, packers and cooks were added to
each division.
The bronze plaque bears the seal of
the United States and is of beautiful
design, framed simply but effectively.
*-•—-■-
CALIFORNIAN TO ANSWER
‘WHITE SLAVERY’ CHARGE
Guilty Plea Entered in Alexandria
by Richard A. Drake, Held
for Grand Jury.
By a Staff Correspondent of The Star.
ALEXANDRIA, Va., December 13.—
Richard A. Drake, 30, giving his ad¬
dress as Oakland, Calif., entered a plea
of guilty to a charge of “white slavery”
in violation of the Mann act when ar¬
raigned before United States Commis¬
sioner John Barton Phillips yesterday.
The commissioner held him for action
of the grand jury in the United States
Court for the Eastern District of Vir¬
ginia.
Drake was arrested Thursday by Pa¬
trolmen Boley and Townsend of the
local police and turned over to the
Federal authorities. His bond was fixed
at $2,500, in default of which he was
committed to the city jail to await the
action of the grand jury.
Regular Delivery
Over 100,000 families read The
Star every day. The great ma¬
jority have the paper delivered
regularly every evening and Sun¬
day morning at a cost of 1%
cents daily and 5 cents Sunday.
If you are not taking advan¬
tage of this regular service at
this low cost, telephone National
5000 now and service will start
tomorrow.
THE SURVEY STAFF
U. S, Geological and Geographical Survey of the Territories
F. V. Hayden, U. S
Adams, Robert Jr., Assistant Quartermaster
Batty, J. H., Naturalist
Bechler, G. R., Topographer
Berthoud, E. L., Civil Engineer
Brooks, Eli, Civil Engineer
Carpenter, Lieut. W. L., Naturalist
Chittenden, George B., Topographer
Cope, Prof. E. D., Naturalist
Coues, Dr. Elliot, Ornithologist.
Coulter, John M., Botanist
Endlich, Dr. F. M., Geologist
Gannett, Henry, Topographer
Gardner, James T., Geographer
Holman, William S. Jr., General Assistant
Holmes, William H.,
Artist and Assistant Geologist
Ingersoll, Ernest, Zoologist
Jackson, William H., Photographer
Ladd, S. B., Topographer
Leidy, Prof. Joseph, Naturalist
Wilson, A. D
i. Geologist in Charge
Lesqueroux, Leo, Paleontologist
Luce, E. T., General assistant.
Marvine, A. R. Geologist
Meek, F. B. Paleontologist
Nealy, S. H. General assistant
Newberry, Prof. J. S., Geologist
Owen, F. D. Assist. Topographer and Artist
Packard, A. S., Naturalist
Peale, A. C., Geologist
Pearson, - Financial clerk
Porter, T. C., Botanist
Rhoda, Franklin, Assistant Topographer
Smith, S. I., Naturalist
Stevenson, James, Administrative Chief
Steckle, Henry W., Assistant Topographer
Taggart, W. Bush, Assistant Geologist
Thomas, Prof. Cyrus, Publications
Verrill, H. E., Zoologist
White, C. A., Paleontologist
Whitney, Prof. W. D., Philologist
., Topographer
For Field Work—Guides, Hunters, Packers and Cooks were added to each division.
Eleventh Street and Pennsylvania Avenue,
Washington, D. C.
Headquarters of the U. S. Geological Survey
F. V. Hayden, Geologist in Charge
The offices were in the upper part of the building, reached by the outside stairway
This building was demolished in April, 1899
Subsequently, about 1875, rooms were occupied at 509 Seventh Street N. W.
SURVIVING MEMBERS
Dr. Wm. H. Holmes Wm. H. Jackson
George B. Chittenden S. B. Ladd
Ernest Ingersol Frederick D. Owen
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dirtier of Cxercteeg
December 13, 1930
Dr. Wm. H. Holmes or Wm. H. Jackson, Presiding
AND WILL PRESENT THE TABLET
Addresses by
Hon. Guy V. Hardy, M. C., Colorado
Hon. Edward T, Taylor, M, C., Colorado
Dr, Edgar L. Hewett, President Archaeological Institute of America
THE MEMORIAL WILL BE UNVEILED BY
Frederick D. Owen
.*iT»Sir3iiS9jfg
WORK BEGUN BY MANY FIELD PARTIES
PPBR 1 ,FLOORS Of 309 STREET, WHERE FINAL
THE SCENIC BEAUTY, THE TOPOGRAPHIC AND
ECONOMIC POTENTIALITIES OF PARTS OF THE
ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND THE YELLOWSTONE WERE
THIS MEMORIAL WAS ERECTED BY THE
SURVIVING MEMBERS Of THE HAYDEN SURVEY
QUENTLY PURCHASED BY-THE STAR COMPANY
ERECTED
In the main office, ground floor
The Evening Star (new building)
Eleventh Street and Pennsylvania Avenue N. W.
Washington, D. C.
On behalf of the Surviving Members of the Survey
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A ROMANCE OF THE ROCKIES.
1873 was the first year of the Hayden Geological
Survey of the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. While in the
field somewhere hack among the ranges in 1874, Jackson, photogra¬
pher of the Survey, had photographed by his assistant, the
group of five members of the Survey here shown - Nr. Hayden
as the central figure, seated with Jackson on the right, Holmes
at the left, with Chittenden, topographer back at left, and
Ernest Ingersoll, back at right. We are shown there, not a
very prepossessing lot, dressed in our rough mountain togs.
Another view differs from this only in having Mr. Story B. Ladd,
topographer on the Survey, substituted for Ingersoll.
A very interesting feature of the episode is that,
while Nr. Hayden died in 1887, the four of us - Jackson, Chitten¬
den, Ladd and Holmes, came together just 53 years later in Wash¬
ington and, during a visit of the party to the National Museum,
were photographed together in the National Gallery and also on
the south portico of the National Museum. It was a very in¬
teresting reunion.
Today, January 30, 1930, I am, at the age of 83,'
officiating as the Nirector of the National Gallery of Art.
Jackson at 86 is in New York engaged by the Explorers 1 Club in
writing the story of the opening up of the great west. Chittenden
is,at 75, at home in East River, Connecticut, and Ladd is in
Persia where he recently joined his daughter.. in.
Persia where she is the wife of a native official.
RANDOM RECORDS GF A LIFETIME
DEVOTED TO SCIENCE AND ART, 1846-1921
BY W. H. HOLMES
LIST OF VOLUMES
Volume I. Brief Biography, Positions Held, Loubat Prizes,
Medals, etc., Societies and Clubs, Bibliography.
II. Explorations, Episodes and Adventures,
Expositions and Congresses.
III. Part I. Yellowstone Explorations, 1872.
Part II. Yellowstone Explorations, 1878.
I V, Pn-Tvt T - Colorado Explorations, 1873, 74, 75, 76 & 87.
Part II. The Cliff Dwellers.
V. Europe 1879-80; Grand Canyon of the Colorado;
Explorations in Mexico with Jackson and the Chains;
Colorado with Powell and Langley, 1887.
VI. Aboriginal Bowlder Quarries, Piney Branch, D. C.,
Soapstone Quarries, Paint Mines, and Lay Figure
Croups.
VII. The Chicago Venture, University Exposition, Field
Museum, Yucatan, Return to Washington, 1892-97.
VIII. Cuba with Powell; Jamaica with Langley; Mexico with
Gilbert and Dutton; California with McGee; Physical
Anthropology, Hrdlicka, Current Work 1900.
IX. Chief Period, Bureau of American Ethnology, 1902-1910;
Visits to Stutgart and Chile 1908.
X. Transfer to the Museum June 10, 1910, the Guatemalian
Trip, Powell Monuments, Seventieth Birthday Celebration,
1920.
XI. Director of the National Gallery of Art, 1920-1931.
XII. The Freer Gallery of Art*
XIII. Portraits, Smithsonian Institution*
XIV. Portraits, Bureau of American Ethnology. National
Gallery of Art, and Miscellaneous.
XV. Masterpieces of Aboriginal American Art.
XVI. Various Articles on Art and the Art Gallery.
XVII. Personal*
XVIII. Personal.
XI X. Personal.
XX. Personal* Water Golor Sketches.
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HGiioss ran the haydue survey. ie?6
"In company with the triangulation party, Mr.
Holmes made a hurried trip through Colorado, touching also
portions of Hew Mexico and Utah. Ee was unable to pay much
attention to detailed work, but had an excellent opportunity
of taking a general view of the two great plain belts that
lie, the one along the east, the other along the west base
of the Rocky Mountains. For nearly two thousand miles travel
he had constantly in view the Cretaceous and Tertiary forma¬
tions, among which are involved some of the most interesting
geological questions. He observed, among other things, the
great persistency of the various groups of rocks throughout
the east, west, and north, and especially in the west; that
from Horthem. Hew Mexico to Southwest Wyoming the various
members of the Cretaceous lie in almost unbroken belts.
"Between the east and the west there is only one
great incongruity. Along the east base of the mountains the
Upper Cretaceous rocks, including Eos. 4 and 5, are almost
wanting, consisting at most of a few hundred feet of shales
and laminated sandstones. Along the west base this group
becomes a prominent and important topographical as well as
geological feature. In the southwest, where it forms the
"Mesa Verde” and the cap of the Dolores Plateau, it comprises
upward of two thousand feet of coal-bearing strata, chiefly
sandstone, while in the north it reaches a thickness of £,500
feet, and forms the gigantic "hog-back" of the Grand River Talley.
"While in the southwest he visited the Sierra Aba^o,
a small group of mountains, which lie in Eastern Utah, and found,
as he had previously surmised, that the structure was identical
with that of the four other isolated groups that lie in the
same region. A mass of trachyte- has been forced up through
fissures in the sedimentary rocks, and now rests chiefly upon
the sandstones and shales of the Lower Cretaceous. There is
a considerable amount of arching of the sedimentary rocks, caused
probably by the intrusion of wedge-like sheets of trachyte, while
the broken edges of the beds are frequently, but abruptly, press¬
ed up, as if by the upward of lateral pressure of the rising
mass* Ee was able to make many additional observations on the
geology of the San Juan region, and secured much v luable
material for the coloring of the final map.
"He states that the northern limit of ancient cliff-
builders in Colorado aid Eastern Utah is hardly above latitude
£7° 45'."
(Tenth Annual Report of the U. S. Geological and Geographical
Survey of t le Territories, 1876, by F. 7. Hayden, page XV)
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EXPLORATIONS IN COLORADO WITH THE HAYDEN SURVEY OF THE
TERRITORIES. TRIP TO THE SIERRA ABAJO MOUNTAIN, COLORADO.
EXTRACT FROM MR. WILSON'S REPORT, 1876.
(f*£ e 1
"Our next point being the Abajo Peak, which was some
eighty miles to the west, consequently out of our direct line
of march, I determined to divide my little party, sending the
main train on to await me under Lone Cone, while Mr. Holmes
and myself took a small outfit and started across the mesa
country for the Abajo Mountains, making a few topographical
stations on the way to fill in a small area which had been left
the previous year owing to the hostilities of the Ute Indians.
"The second day's march brought us to the foot of the
mountains, but at the same time a storm which had been accumu¬
lating for some time broke upon us, and as we were not prepared
for such an event, were compelled to hover around a sage-brush
fire for three days, while the snow and rain came down alternately
until the mountains were covered to a depth of a foot and a half
with snow while the plains were converted into vast mud-holes.
Finally, on the morning of the 19th, the storm broke, and we
were soon on our way up the mountain. Breaking our way through
the fresh snow we succeeded in reaching the summit, where we
found the snow nearly two feet deep. Completing our observa¬
tions and sketches as soon as possible, nearly freezing in the
mean time, we soon descended to our camp, glad to be ready once
more to resume our march, for this delay had nearly entirely
exhausted our supply of provisions; in fact, we had but one
day's supply left and were about 100 miles from our main camp.
"Late at night on the second day we reached the foot of
Lone Cone, but not finding our main camp, were compelled to camp,
notwithstanding the fact, which weighed heavily on our minds,
that we had eaten our last morsel of provisions at five o'clock
the previous morning.
"Arousing ourselves at break of day the following morn¬
ing and finding the weather looking unsettled, I determined to
ascend the peak before spending any more time in search of camp,
fearing that a storm might again delay us . After some three
hours of hard climbing we reached the summit, and I succeeded in
getting a good set of observations. After completing my work
I scanned the horizon with my field-glasses for our main camp,
which I finally discovered about seven miles eastward. Returning
to where X had" left the animals we hoop packed up, and wending J
our way through down timber, bog-holes, and snow, we arrived at
our camp about 4 p.m., pretty well worn and ready for a "square"
meal, which we had not enjoyed for two days.” (pp.278,279)
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